Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

NEW CLUTCH THREAD

wish they had made it a stickey as there was a ton of good stuff in there :face-icon-small-sad
 
Im running sealevel with clutchkit from indydan

Primary:
v5-3 weights hole1 2.5gr hole 2 2.5gr hole 3 1gr hole 4 1 gr
spring 140/330 spring

secondary:
Helix they wont say.
125/175 spring

both clutches stay cool after long pulls and no belt slippage.

but im only pulling 8100-8150rpm.

tried removing 2gr from hole 2 to witch gave me 8200rpm, removed the last 0.5gr in hole 2 and suddenly it seem to pull 8000-8100 again.. that doesnt add up. for a notice the temp outside was warm this day, 35f and i know i can loose roughly 200rpm then but the temp usually doesnt effect my sled, probably due to seelevel.

tps is set.

should i start with empty weight and see if i pass the 8400rpm and if so start adding weight from hole 1.
 
I got a phone call from a dealer last week thats very tight with polaris engineering management, he was asking me why i was looking for gearing pulleys, i mentioned about inconsistent clutching, he told me the whole problem is in the fuel map and proceeded to say that pol clutching from factory is as good as ur gonna get as they don't like to leave anything on the table.but he did say the slp weights were a good weight for the axys and trying the blk purple spring was good for backshift but some dont like the revy noisy feeling, incl me.
He said 2016s are lean in mid rich on top , 2017s rich mid and lean on top.
He said he shared his dissatisfaction with pol about the mapping and advised them to get it right, so i think were all chasing our own tail untill the mapping becomes better.
Ive been around the world with clutching on this thing , spent many hundreds of dollars on clutch parts and am at the point of just running stock with empty 71 grm mtx weights clutching and im gonna try pro gearing latter this week.
You know there's a mapping problem when u can add a pipe without adding a controller.
 
Probably why they did the straight helix,:face-icon-small-dis I will say that it liked the 56 .36 start angle better than the 60 .46, but both pull better down low that the .40 straight, I have never ever seen a n/a sled that ran better with a straight helix :face-icon-small-sho:face-icon-small-shoso the fuel theory sounds pretty good :face-icon-small-coo:face-icon-small-coo
 
Im running sealevel with clutchkit from indydan

Primary:
v5-3 weights hole1 2.5gr hole 2 2.5gr hole 3 1gr hole 4 1 gr
spring 140/330 spring

secondary:
Helix they wont say.
125/175 spring

both clutches stay cool after long pulls and no belt slippage.

but im only pulling 8100-8150rpm.

tried removing 2gr from hole 2 to witch gave me 8200rpm, removed the last 0.5gr in hole 2 and suddenly it seem to pull 8000-8100 again.. that doesnt add up. for a notice the temp outside was warm this day, 35f and i know i can loose roughly 200rpm then but the temp usually doesnt effect my sled, probably due to seelevel.

tps is set.

should i start with empty weight and see if i pass the 8400rpm and if so start adding weight from hole 1.


I would try the stock primary spri g, i just tried that same spring and didnt like it, got simular results, its got less pounds per inch rate than stock for starters and second of all , its engagement is like 4400, stock is 3700 with 71 grm mtx weights.
 
now running, 2016 slp pipe diamond s can

MTX 68 gr
120-333 primary spring
56-40 .36 helix
black purple spring + 2 delrins

pulls 8350-8400

will test more and update

Currently I am running

SLP Pipe and Can, no resistor, Ethanol mode below 4000 ft.
EPI Belly Buster 64 gram weights
120-340 Primary
straight 40 Helix
Venom 170-240 secondary
roller needle bearing plate with 2 roller plates
2.4 gearing (2.1 /.875 for 7 tooth)

The Belly Buster weights are very aggressive and I tried a 56-40 helix and 62-42, 62-40 helixes. With low heel weight these other helixes worked better but they make it difficult to not spin the track with the Belly Busters. The straight 40 offsets this problem. Good RPM, maybe a little low over 7000 ft (8150), but really fast back-shift and recovery. So far best set up I have found.
 
This is what I'm running in my 174. I've found the 174x3 needs to be clutched lighter and with more backshift than a 163x2.6 does.

17 174 with Bikeman pipe, can, y-pipe and Bully Dog program.
8-10,000 elevation
SLP Magnum Force weight - no added weight
SLP blue/pink primary
Black/purple secondary with one dehlrin
Stock 40 helix

Pulls 8300-8400 all day long whether climbing, in the powder or down the trail. I like the stock primary spring better for low speed crawling, but peak RPM aren't as consistent as the SLP blue/pink.
 
Have some of you seen gains at 8,300 to 8,400. I've left my sled as stock running 10-62's at +9,000', it turns 8,100 at elevation even in deep powder pulls. My friend has tried a few other recommended set-ups some spinning 8,300 r's. The day he was turning high rpm's I could outrun him by a good margin 1MPH to 2MPH in all conditions. Seems to me having a couple dozen rides under my belt that 8,100 to 8,150 is spot on.
 
Have some of you seen gains at 8,300 to 8,400. I've left my sled as stock running 10-62's at +9,000', it turns 8,100 at elevation even in deep powder pulls. My friend has tried a few other recommended set-ups some spinning 8,300 r's. The day he was turning high rpm's I could outrun him by a good margin 1MPH to 2MPH in all conditions. Seems to me having a couple dozen rides under my belt that 8,100 to 8,150 is spot on.


8300-8400 is the sweet spot if your running a Bikeman or SLP pipe. Stock pipe is 8100-8200 I believe.
 
what im have on my 174
120-310 drive spring
160-260 black/white sec
56-40 .36 helix
10-72 speetech Adjustable Weights
slp pipe and can
 
I'm trying to decide if should keep the 64s in my new 17 for Togwotee(8000-10000ft) or if should go straight to the 62s. Sled is brand new, bone stock and my first year on an Axys. Any advice is welcome
 
is the general consensus to add 2 grams for the slp pipe and can, otherwise completely stock?
10-66?

’17 axys 800, 2.6 track, 155, chaincase stock gearing, not sure driver size. riding 6500-9500 ft

thanks
 
I'm trying to decide if should keep the 64s in my new 17 for Togwotee(8000-10000ft) or if should go straight to the 62s. Sled is brand new, bone stock and my first year on an Axys. Any advice is welcome


umm i'd probably go the 62's, bring the 64's along in case it overrevs, but I doubt it
 
is the general consensus to add 2 grams for the slp pipe and can, otherwise completely stock?
10-66?

’17 axys 800, 2.6 track, 155, chaincase stock gearing, not sure driver size. riding 6500-9500 ft

thanks

Depends, 2 cases, pipe likes to run a bit higher rpm, however it makes more power too, clutch it to run 8400 on hard pack, 8200-8300 in the deep under load 2-3 grams usually does it
 
Setting up my 2017 600 Switchback 144 with 2 inch track for Togwotee. I'm assuming the 10-56's (like advised) will be alright. Sled is stock.
 
Have some of you seen gains at 8,300 to 8,400. I've left my sled as stock running 10-62's at +9,000', it turns 8,100 at elevation even in deep powder pulls. My friend has tried a few other recommended set-ups some spinning 8,300 r's. The day he was turning high rpm's I could outrun him by a good margin 1MPH to 2MPH in all conditions. Seems to me having a couple dozen rides under my belt that 8,100 to 8,150 is spot on.

Every time I clutch for 8300, I feel I lose track speed. These motors do like to be loaded some. Don't forget the tachs are very slow so you might be popping up to 8300 and then shift out and drop rpm and never see it. If you see 8300 after shifting it may have hit 8600 first. Difficult if you don't have the ideal long climb to test on.
 
Just got back from Revy. 2 days of 8150 at 6000+ ft. Then on the 3rd day a high pressure system blows in and temp dropped. We decided to ride around 4500 ft. Both my sled and a stock sled now were over-revving. (8500+) The stocker was even hitting the rev limiter. I have seen the rpms change from day to day but this was extreme.
 
Well after a full day yesterday of riding at 7500 feet with pretty good conditions, maybe 1-2 feet powder over a good base here is my final set up after messing around with the clutching a LOT over time.

16 axys
SLP pipe, diamond can 163"
primary... MTX weights, 68 gr
primary spring 125/333 titanium,or slp blue/pink
secondary.. helix 56--40 .36
black/purple spring, 2 delrins

Sled pulley 8450-8500 on the flats up there and 8250-8350 in hard climbs.

all in all I really like the gear down, allows full shift out a bit better and nice low end grunt improvement, however it is in no way a necessity as sled really runs great with the pipe can combo, basicly runs better than my friends 13 pro with the stage 4 slp kit.

as a side note pipe/can was good for aprox 350-400 rpm gain and quite a noticeable improvement in the mid range/top end pull, well worth the money for sure and I usually don't say this about a pipe add
 
Premium Features



Back
Top