new bikeman durability kit install

[j9845]

new bikeman durability kit install Update...

So i just have my motor back together. Bikeman durability kit with SLP stage 3 kit. After about 3 heat cycles I did a couple WOT snaps. After shutting down I had to check my reeds for another issue and notice some piston skirt scuffs. Im just wondering what you guys think? Am i still ok or do i need to change something up. Just FYI, the piston to clyinder clearnace was good and I set my piston ring gap to around .024.
Also, need some recommendation of clutch weights at sea level and 8-10,000ft.

Well, ran the sled for about 100miles in the snowys. The sled ran great, it seem to pull hard up the hills and could always keep the Rs in the 8100-8250 range. With that said I decided to pull my head and inspect the cylinder walls. It doesnt look good.... Keep in mind I had the walls re-honed and opened up my ring gap all the way to .025. I am lost. I dont even know where to go.... Maybe sell it the way it sits

 

[Carlos Randolph]

I would not be happy with that in anyway shape or form. What did the inside of the jugs look like pre install of new slugs? Did you have them honed? What do the rings look like?

 

[Carlos Randolph]

Full disclosure??? what was the issue with the reeds? Some of those scuffs are more like scratches. I think your motor needs some help asap.

 

[Carlos Randolph]

Pull an exhaust valve and lets see the other side.

 

[j9845]

I had an idling issue and wanted to check reeds. End up being an injector wire. I haven't pull my engine apart to check rings. The cylinders where diamond honed before and where in good shape. I turned up my oil pump and premixed 50:1. I can pull the exhaust valves off and get you guys a pic. Today I did a couple WOT pulls today in a water way. Runs good and pulls hard. Checked compression after and I'm at 125psi each side

 

[sledneck_03]

What are these heat cycles? Why do people do them. Over heating your motor and expanding your pistons cause scuffing. Those wosner pistons are forged arnt they?

 

[j9845]

I wasnt over heating the engine but did get it up to operating temp bout 3 times before i went to WOT. Searching through the fourm it seem like the most common break-in procedure. I got a picture of the exhaust side of the MAG cylinder. Its the best picture i could get. It doesnt look bad but let my know what you guys think. Should I pull the head and inspect the cylinders?

I will say I did turn the engine over with a drill with the plugs out to make sure the oil pump was primed. I did pour some oil down the plug oil beforehand. Could that cause the scuffs?

 

[Indy_500]

Were the cylinders thoroughly cleaned after honing?

 

[j9845]

I washed them with hot soapy water, set the ring gap and washed then one more time. I'm gonna pull the head tomorrow and will get pictures

 

[voodoo]

We used to heat cycle the old iron bore cylinders to make sure the sleeves were set and then re-hone them. Not sure what heat cycling will do to help a nicasil motor. Just ride it to get the rings set in.

 

[j9845]

After i pull the head and if everything looks good im guessing ill just run it. Not sure what else i can do....

 

[Killer Time Racing]

This seems to be the norm for Bikeman products .. they have a new name now

 

[xTonyCRx]

What exactly did you experience for your idle issues? After rebuilding my sled, installing v force reeds and replacing the air filter my sled idled real low when I started it. So low the gauge would flicker.

How did you find the injector wire issue and how did you fix it.

 

[j9845]

It would idle fine but when going to rev up it didnt have any response. One of the terminals was pushed back on the PTO side injector. I pushed it back in the connector untill it clicked.

 

[j9845]

Just got the head off. Not sure whats going on. Let me get some feedback

The only thing i can think of is when by putting the drill on the clutch and trying to prime the oil pump. i didnt get enough oil in the cylinders to lubricate the walls....

 

[j9845]

Pics of the pistons. I did a couple WOT pulls in a waterway. This is all after I took the inital pictures. Im going to get the cylinders re-honed, check ring gap, and piston clearance again and put it back together.

 

[Carlos Randolph]

In a perfect world....

FYI not trying to talk down, or say you did anything wrong the first time, just trying to help. Obviously the best thing would be to start all over again with new piston's, but real world that costs another 4hundo ish.

If you plan to keep/run the ones you got, make sure you have no grooves or burs in/on the rings. other wise your just gonna waste ur time for sure. Next I would scotch brite pad the "scuffs" on the sides of the piston's.....rub rub rub. Shine them back up best you can. Not trying to remove tons of material, just lessen or remove the scratches. Clean the crap outa them, brake cleaner then blast with air, then soap n water n blast with air, then just water n blast with air. put them in a zip lock and keep for later.

Jugs, have a pro, or a shop re-hone them, and then repeat the steps you used on the pistons to clean, and put them in a garbage bag til ready for install.

Next I would shop vac out the crank case....it's free and makes sure you get all the water out, not to mention any crap that might have gotten down in there. Make a smaller tip for the vac using a piece of fuel line or similar taped or attached to the hose/end. This way you can really get down in there. Pistons and cylinders don't like water as a general rule. Also at this time suck out the air box from the motor side....can't hurt.

Now put it back together! I would coat all the parts with a film of some good heavy weight oil, or atleast some 2stroke oil. Once all back together, check for a bubble in the oil line if you must, but air/gravity bleed the system. Don't spin it/motor with a drill. Not the same thing as pulling the disty on a small block chev and spinning the pump over with a drill with a flat head on it. Best thing you can do is get it running, with your oil added to the gas, and the coating you gave the piston's it should all be good.

Best of luck

 

[Carlos Randolph]

Just to me.....from the pics it looks like grit or water or grit in the water or grit in oil...all coming from the bottom end, could have caused the scuffing to some degree. I could be totally wrong, and it just was to tight, or off in some other way, but you can control "clean" just as, if not easier than the size of the parts.

 

[j9845]

Thank you guys for all the comments. This is good information and have a good plan of action. Im having the cylinders honed today and will start cleaning and reassembling tonight.

Thanks again for all the feedback!

 

[j9845]

Well, ran the sled for about 100miles in the snowys. The sled ran great, it seem to pull hard up the hills and could always keep the Rs in the 8100-8250 range. With that said I decided to pull my head and inspect the cylinder walls. It doesnt look good.... Keep in mind I had the walls re-honed and opened up my ring gap all the way to .025. I am lost. I dont even know where to go.... Maybe sell it the way it sits