Just picked up a New 2016 163, and would like to get it ready for the season. From what I have been reading, it is best to fully clip the 2.6 track. Any other issues? Saw a couple threads on the A arms, Is this a recommended replacement issue or was it just a bad batch last yr? Was it just the upper or lower? Also remember reading about the quick drive bolts needing replacement, anything else? Thanks
New Axys Owner
- Thread starter Hairdryr
- Start date
Mine has been pretty much flawless. I did have the ECU re-flash last year just before I put the sled up for the season, so not sure what the difference is going to be. As for the a-arms, only a few people had issues. They seem pretty strong, however, I don't pound the heck out of my sled either. I am getting ready to clip my track as I believe it will make it last a lot longer. Have not heard about quick drive bolts. As for the quick drive belt, just make sure you follow recommended break in procedures. Other than that, gas and go. The sled is pretty darn amazing.
a arms are up to you. If you hit something, they will bend. If you don't hit anything they won't. I went to alternative impact last year 36" arms and bent one of those lowers as well.
I haven't heard the bolt breaking problem like you did on the pros, however I did change those before the season as well. I have some leftover that I could send you for a few bucks if you'd like
I think the track wear people are clipping to avoid is due to the sharp angle at the back of the hyfax coupled with how much the track can flex up into the gap between the end of the hyfax and the wheel-especially when on edge. I'm going to radius that angle in both directions this season and keep an eye on it before I clip the entire track. It did the same thing on the 3" track BTW.
As stated if you hit ANYTHING, you will bend a lower a-arm. The only difference this year is that they're black. Some people have bent one catching the carbide on a rock. I had no issues with hard weld wear bars last year and they were a lot easier on my ramp and deck as well.
The lower QD pulley bolt issue has been resolved.
I think the biggest thing that you can do to avoid issues is to plastic bag and relocate your exhaust valve relays. From the factory they're exposed and tied to the cross bar of the over structure. Move them to the upper part of the over structure by the air box so water can't get into them. Once water gets into them everything goes to hell. The sled will run like crap, shut itself off, go into limp mode, throw check engine codes that don't exist... All fun stuff. Best thing about this mod is that it's free.
As stated if you hit ANYTHING, you will bend a lower a-arm. The only difference this year is that they're black. Some people have bent one catching the carbide on a rock. I had no issues with hard weld wear bars last year and they were a lot easier on my ramp and deck as well.
The lower QD pulley bolt issue has been resolved.
I think the biggest thing that you can do to avoid issues is to plastic bag and relocate your exhaust valve relays. From the factory they're exposed and tied to the cross bar of the over structure. Move them to the upper part of the over structure by the air box so water can't get into them. Once water gets into them everything goes to hell. The sled will run like crap, shut itself off, go into limp mode, throw check engine codes that don't exist... All fun stuff. Best thing about this mod is that it's free.
Sorry the space at the end of the hyfax isn't causing track wear.....
If that was the case all the random sleds out there with rail extensions would have the same wear issues.
They don't though.
Clips will stop the wear.....
Agreed with the above statement!! From SMF...
Additionally;
The LOWER drive shaft bolt is not longer an issue, and only thing I can say is,, That a broad statement says if you hit something, you will bend your A arms.. not true- keep in mind some peeps pound these sleds and say it bent like butter - put aftermarket on and trashed them also... so read between the lines, also with the spindles- have seen concerns/ issues.
I for one can tell you that with 5 Axys in my fleet Zero on both accounts, and we ride, ride, ride---------------------------------------!!!!!!
Bottom line-If It were me with a new Axys and checking out this site to see what peeps have come across.
IMHO
1.Re-locate the exhaust valve relays.
2.Open the bag that is on top of the clutch cover, and bag it also.
3.Clip that track!!!
4.Ensure that the TPS is spot on.
5.Ride it and
.I rode with 5 Axys sled last year, we put on 1200-2000 miles, ALL back country miles, zero trail miles. We do several creek crossings on every ride, and we hit plenty of stuff under the snow. Couple guys went over the bars from hard hits. ZERO A-arms bent, and everyone ran the stock arms all year.
I feel like there is nothing you need to replace. Some things need checked, or adjusted, maybe relocated and just like any new sled, I think you should apply dielectric grease in all the terminals.
Eric
I feel like there is nothing you need to replace. Some things need checked, or adjusted, maybe relocated and just like any new sled, I think you should apply dielectric grease in all the terminals.
Eric
That is a loaded question since everybody has different tastes. Following is what I did to mine:
- revalved the shocks at Carl's and put a heavier rear track shock spring on
- KMOD 37" A Arm kit which is stronger and a more narrow stance
- Venting
- SLP Mohawk skis
- SLP pipe for more power
- Diamond S Titanium muffler for weight loss
- better bumpers front and rear for protection, looks and rear tunnel bracing (rear of course)
- Carl's clutching
That's about it. If I had to point to a couple of things that I considered most important, it would be clutching and shock revalve work. The revalve work is cheaper than different shocks and they work much better than stock.
- revalved the shocks at Carl's and put a heavier rear track shock spring on
- KMOD 37" A Arm kit which is stronger and a more narrow stance
- Venting
- SLP Mohawk skis
- SLP pipe for more power
- Diamond S Titanium muffler for weight loss
- better bumpers front and rear for protection, looks and rear tunnel bracing (rear of course)
- Carl's clutching
That's about it. If I had to point to a couple of things that I considered most important, it would be clutching and shock revalve work. The revalve work is cheaper than different shocks and they work much better than stock.
You are on the right track. Clip the track, replace the carbide skags with round bar type and this will reduce chances of wrecking the a-arms. (lowers are the only problem) You can also add braces to the a-arms or go aftermarket. The quickdrive bolt issue is not the problem so if told it is resolved, do your homework. Some sleds have sloppy splines and the gear rocks. You don't have to be an engineer to know that the power of the engine and the torque when braking will overcome the holding force of the bolt and the gear will rotate back and forth on the shaft under the bolt head. My 2015 was terrible, my 2016 was good and buddies new 2017 is terrible too. Lots of slop.I have a video of how sloppy it is but it's too big to post. Anyway you can change the bolt to 10.9 hard and it will help but only if the slop is not too extreme. I recommend using Loctite 660 as well as upgrading the bolt. The 2016 spindles also failed for some guys and Tom at TKI is making inserts to strengthen them.
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So if you have a gear with excessive slop as described can you just replace the gear or is the issue with the shaft itself? F-ing Polaris quality control, I swear!
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You have warranty correct? Gas, oil, go ride!
1000s of sled out there and each may or may not have their own problems, or they may run perfect, but if you start reading on every thing you "hear" on the internet you will drive yourself nuts and convince yourself things are wrong even if not.
1000s of sled out there and each may or may not have their own problems, or they may run perfect, but if you start reading on every thing you "hear" on the internet you will drive yourself nuts and convince yourself things are wrong even if not.
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No truer words were spoken
Good advice all around. Thanks to everyone for their input. Going to the Intermountain sled show in Utah Sat. Maybe see some of u there.
Please expand on the inserts- I just placed a good sized order and Never was told about the inserts/or for that reason what they are!
I stripped one of Tom's gears out last year and he covered it...
Well, there's a better answer.
J
jhurkot
Well-known member
Warranty is great but after doing "gas and go" last season I'll be fixing the things that can go wrong so I don't spend too many days waiting.
Main issues that need fixing...
1. Track wear. Fully clip or a 9" wheel kit on the back. I went the full clip route.
2. Electrical connections
These need to be dielectric greased to keep the water out and make sure the bags aren't put on in a manner that will allow water to collect in them.
3. Primary clutch
Confirm 80ft lbs on the bolt. Weigh your clutch weights to make sure they are exact and not vibrating on the rollers. Also be very diligent about weight bushing maintenance (every 500 miles).
I plan on riding this sled for 100 days this year so these are known issues that need fixing for that amount of ride time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Main issues that need fixing...
1. Track wear. Fully clip or a 9" wheel kit on the back. I went the full clip route.
2. Electrical connections
These need to be dielectric greased to keep the water out and make sure the bags aren't put on in a manner that will allow water to collect in them.
3. Primary clutch
Confirm 80ft lbs on the bolt. Weigh your clutch weights to make sure they are exact and not vibrating on the rollers. Also be very diligent about weight bushing maintenance (every 500 miles).
I plan on riding this sled for 100 days this year so these are known issues that need fixing for that amount of ride time.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's a great sled, so many products available to protect and enhance it.
http://www.sledsolutions.com/index....rderway=desc&search_query=axys&submit_search=
http://www.sledsolutions.com/index....rderway=desc&search_query=axys&submit_search=
