Need some advice from the experts

[Ghuds]

Just picked up an 02 800 RMK V.E. 156" (just under 3K miles) and I don't know much about these sleds. Here's what I do know - complete motor rebuild at 2500 mi., motor is stock except for SLP intake and PSI pipe and can. Runs great and sounds real healthy from what I can tell so far. Has Simmons Flexi Skis, and Ryde FX shocks up front and a Fox Float in the rear. Track is in almost perfect shape and it has a 4" bar riser.

Any advice on what to check / keep and eye on or what mods work best would be great - Thanks! (I'll try to post some pics tomorrow if I can figure out how to do it.)

 

[trikerider]

Check the left side drive axle bearing.

 

[winter brew]

Great sled, just the typical wear on clutches and bushings. The PSI pipe worked very good on that sled! Team secondary might be a good addition if your looking for a bit more, although the good old button clutch is tough to beat.

 

[whoisthatguy]

Pull the black covers on each side at the rear of the foot rests. Look for cracks in the tunnel and then fix them with 1/2" x1/2" aluminum angles.

02 had a soft steering column. Unbolt the risers and dump Simpson SET epoxy and stuff a 1/2" diameter all-thread into the hollow column. Cut off the excess. Rebolt on riser block.

Make sure you have the heavy duty rear springs.

Check for tunnel cracks beneath the foot rests at the front. Fix them with bolted in 3/4" x 3/4" aluminum angles spanning across the crack.

Check for a flattened exhaust deflector. Pull it off and pound it into shape. Bolt back on with stove bolts and nylon locknuts.

Set the front limiter straps in the 1 1/2 position which requires you to make new holes. #1 position is fully extended.

Check your rear most bogie wheels. The bearings are toast at 3000 miles. While you are at it, make sure all bogie wheels spin freely.

Find out when the PTO side bearing on the drive axle was changed, or replace it soon.

Check the teeth in the top and bottom gears in the chaincase for wear.

Pull all shocks off and check them. Rebuild as required by an expert.

Change out shock grommets because they get ovalled out and sloppy.

Better get some lubricant into the throttle and rpm cable.

Replace the front motor mounts and double nut them. The 800 will tear those apart on a regular basis. Check the left side torque stop and see if there is sign of wear. Replace as required. See if you can lift up the front of the engine before you do anything, which would be a symptom that the motor mounts are already torn.

 

[Ryanlilly]

Get your primary clutch balanced. Brad at power addiction can do it for about $40.

 

[Kraven]

800 CRANK RUN-OUT

Get your primary clutch balanced. Brad at power addiction can do it for about $40.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ agreed, best cheap money mod for a big block 800, period.

While the clutch is off, check your crank run-out.

.0025" is the ABSOLUTE MOST I would want to see

 

[Ghuds]

Thanks for all the input everyone! I'm in the process of checking everything out. I have 2 questions though- why are there 2 different settings on the ignition switch and do you have to pull the secondary to grease the jackshaft bearing?

 

[Ryanlilly]

Thanks for all the input everyone! I'm in the process of checking everything out. I have 2 questions though- why are there 2 different settings on the ignition switch and do you have to pull the secondary to grease the jackshaft bearing?

The premium setting is for premium fuel, it advances the timing making a little more HP. If your unsure about the quality of your fuel then run on the regular setting.

Depending on your grese gun you might be able to get it without removing the secondary. If not you can unbolt it and just slide it back a bit.

 

[Ghuds]

Really? Does it actually make a noticeable difference? Also, is the center bogie wheel really necessary? Seems like a lot of extra rolling resistance.

 

[theultrarider]

Yes, you can feel the difference between the 2 key settings when running Premium fuel in it. Not a ton, but it is there. And yes, I would leave all 3 idler wheels in the rear axle.