Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Need help with 900 dragon cutting out

I have 06 900 RMK Dragon with about 2800 miles on it. If I hold the throttle at 6500 rpm, it has a intermittent engine cut out. When I say intermittent, I mean as long as you stay right around 6500 rpm the engine keeps cutting in and out quickly. If you push the throttle in more it will power right through the cutting out problem and run very strong. I have the complete SLP update. Billet head, pipe, can, air box and torque arm ect... with the SLP flash installed. Could it be the airbox sensor? I heard that it should be located on the bottom of the air box. Mine is located on the top left side. Any ideas?
 
Check your exaust valves if you take off the plastic covers off to uncover the bellows if there are any cracks in the them it can cause this problem you will know if there is oil covering them when u pull the covers there should not be oil on the top side if there is replace them they are a cheap fix and it solved my problem
 
my dads dose the same. soon as you start it up it runs good for about 2 mins then all the lights flsh off and on adn trys to die but dosent, then bottom end is all bog, half throttle to tap out run unreal. hes replaced last season........ injectors,stator,fuel pump,ignition coil.......and about 20 plugs still runs the same! next is tear down and check crank seal!.
 
check exhaust bellows like stated above, and test TPS..replace harness with updated and use an analog meter on the TPS itself, could have a dead spot.
 
I have 06 900 RMK Dragon with about 2800 miles on it. If I hold the throttle at 6500 rpm, it has a intermittent engine cut out. When I say intermittent, I mean as long as you stay right around 6500 rpm the engine keeps cutting in and out quickly. If you push the throttle in more it will power right through the cutting out problem and run very strong. I have the complete SLP update. Billet head, pipe, can, air box and torque arm ect... with the SLP flash installed. Could it be the airbox sensor? I heard that it should be located on the bottom of the air box. Mine is located on the top left side. Any ideas?


Ok forget what I said, My sled is cutting out at 6500 just like yours (NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT). In a flat open meadow with 4 or 5 inchs of snow cuts in and out at 6500 all the way across if rpms go above or below its fine. But powers through it and if you just pin it its fine start to finish. Also I smell a strong gas smell when I first start it and at idle (running the SLP reflash?)

I just had my dealer set my TPS on Wedensday....

I checked my EGT with a friends 900 and it ran the same.

I unplugged my intake sensor and its working cause check engine light came on plugged back in and went off.

Unplugged my kill switch, ran the same
 
I've experienced the same thing. On my sled it was a simple fix. The throttle cable was too loose and would cause the throttle safety switch to activate. I tightened the adjuster on the cable to allow just under 1/8" free-play in the throttle lever and the problem was gone. Don't know if that's the problem with your's, but it's a quick check.
 
I've experienced the same thing. On my sled it was a simple fix. The throttle cable was too loose and would cause the throttle safety switch to activate. I tightened the adjuster on the cable to allow just under 1/8" free-play in the throttle lever and the problem was gone. Don't know if that's the problem with your's, but it's a quick check.

When we were trouble shooting a few things, I unplugged all three things on the right side of the handle bars, killswitch, grip heater and safety switch. So I think it's ok.

I don't know for sure but insted of cutting out maybe just a bog but it corrects it's self so quick it's hard to tell.
 
I think these 900's are puking TPS' and the wire harnesses. There may be a little bit of a different symptom on the 06's due to the 4-injector design. The vibration of the 900 is what has got to be taking out these TPS'. If it were mine, I'd replace both. Ericbigbores TPS last year was checked by 3 different dealers and was found to be okay. It was only after we replaced it anyway and the harness did his runnability problems go away.

In the automotive industry, I've found many TPS' that would pass the test but belonged in the garbage can.
 
Really sounds like a bad spot in the tps, spend the time testing it with a quality analog meter, or if you can afford it, just throw one in and set it properly. Never hurts to have a spare tps with these engines anyhow :rolleyes:
 
My 2005 900 did the same thing. I replaced the stator as I had already bought one. While changing the stator I removed the fuel pump assembly as I still had black debris in the tank from the black float. I found a black plastic 90 deg elbow that attaches the return line to the regulator had came unglued and was allowing air to enter the fuel system. I glued it back on and it has been running well since. A friend also had the exact same problem on his 2005 900. You may be able to get the sled warmed up then fill the gas tank all the way to the top of the neck and hop on it to test it. My ran ok until the fuel level dropped below the regulator as it was sucking gas not air then started running like crap when the fuel level dropped.
 
I just pulled mine and the bellows are good. My valves have a bit of carbon built up on them and are a little sticky so they might be sticking.
I'm going to clean the valves and try running with the exhaust valve selenoid tubes plugged and see what happens.

Read this and see what you think.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170978

Well after cleaning my EV valves and by-passing the EV valve solenoid my problem was gone yesterday. My EV valves had a lot of carbon built up on them, I've been using Polaris Blue oil since my rebuild so who knows maybe the EV solenoid was going bad as well. I like the idea of by-passing it and would recommend it. I'll be switching to the new VES Gold Plus also.

Thanks for everyones help.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top