Need help first ride on 08 m8 and wanting to die.

[cumminshp]

Ok so i bought a sled a week and a half ago. Its a 08 m8 with 1250 miles (3400km) looked it all over before riding and seemed to be fine at 2000ft the compression checked out at 130psi in each cylinder (checked it twice). The clutching is stock. It has a y-pipe (don't know brand as i can't see one and havn't taken it off to inspect) and a mbrp can. Nothing else all that i did different was the key was bent and broke so I cut the wires to the key/ignition hole and then taped them up and then taped them together and hid them under the hood. Also i threw some sea foam in there.I used about a 1/4 or a bit less of the bottle as it says a full bottle of it will treat 30-90 liters. At the last minute i noticed i didn't have any oil the PO ran cat and that's what i have always ran but only thing close to me was a Canadian tire so i went and bought shell advance (the only thing is not thinking i bought the non synthetic stuff). Now i have heard sometimes of mixing oil it acting different until it burns the old stuff out but i doubt that is it. I am running 94 octane from chevron along with the sea foam in the tank like i said.

There's the info here is my problem i test drove it at his house and my place more then once but never really letting on and off the throttle and it was also before i put this shell advanced oil and 94 chevron and sea foam. But i already had the wires cut for the ignition. The problem is i was going and up hill and down hill even it would do it if i let off in a corner (seems worse or wants to happen more when pointed up hill) and then if I'm barley on the throttle or letting on and off the sled wants to die and it did about 4 times on me but there's was about 6 or so other times i got it not to. Its weird if you let off when its going to do it then grab some throttle you can make it run. Also if I'm above about half throttle its perfectly fine and at full throttle it pulls 7800 rpm. Its almost acting like someone is flicking on a choke on a carb engine then shutting it off just before it dies to describe it. Checked all visible plugs and there all plugged in tight. To me maybe my best guess is something grounding out. Also i think i read about something called a TSS doing something similar to this on some cats ?? Has anyone ran sea foam and experienced anything similar to this ? I want the sled to run proper those are my ideas if you have some or know what it is it would be great if you could help. Thanks in advance all help is greatly appreciated !!!

 

[m8magicandmystery]

try throttle cable adjustment..you want that 1/8 free play at the flipper otherwise the safety switch bewitches ya...

 

[428PONY]

A quick test to check the throttle saftey switch. Use your in dex finger to hold throttle against pin in throttle fulcrum. Or unplug safety switch and retest.

 

[SLEDIOT]

try throttle cable adjustment..you want that 1/8 free play at the flipper otherwise the safety switch bewitches ya...

Was going to say frayed throttle cable or maybe needs new reeds.

 

[cumminshp]

Ok well thanks for the reply let's get some more. How do I unplug this throttle safety ? If it solves the problem would leaving it unplugged hurt anything ? Also forgot to mention no codes are being flashed .

 

[cumminshp]

try throttle cable adjustment..you want that 1/8 free play at the flipper otherwise the safety switch bewitches ya...

Also wanna clarify do I put my index finger behind the throttle and pin it until it hits my finger??

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Ok well thanks for the reply let's get some more. How do I unplug this throttle safety ? If it solves the problem would leaving it unplugged hurt anything ? Also forgot to mention no codes are being flashed .

if you leave it unplugged you have no protection against a frozen/stuck throttle and i think your kill switch is bypassed as well..but its ok to unplug to test...or have a tether if you want to do away with it...me ...i have both..

the plug is up by your steering column...is it in your owners manual..??

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Also wanna clarify do I put my index finger behind the throttle and pin it until it hits my finger??

the freeplay is between the front edge of the flipper and the throttle block...nothing to do with index finger and pinning it..

you want just a bit of play..(float) with the flipper.(similar to motor bike brake cable lever play)...tightening the cable pulls the freeplay tighter toward the block..loosening the cable allows the flipper to float more....both in excess causes issues but the too little freeplay is real problematic..

it cuts out engine spark when the little switch/fulcrum gets activated,,,

you can listen real close and feel the switch activate if you play with the flipper and apply it uneven and pinch the cable with needle nose to simulate a problem etc..

but bottom line is that you should have a bit of play...and like sled idiot says...maybe a cable strand loose in the sheath

 

[cumminshp]

Ok thanks again. If anything it might have a bit to much play. I will check that today.

Also who has ran sea foam do you think that would have anything to do with it ? It says a full bottle can treat 30-90 liters in i put in about a 1/4 bottle into my tank could that be messing with anything ? Has anyone used this stuff or something similar and had problems before ? Also this is a long shot but I wasn't near my cat dealer plus they were closed and the guy before me ran cat oil and that's what i always ran in my m7 anyways this time i switched to shell advance i bought a jug cause i had no choice and it is non or semi synthetic it doesn't say but it isn't the full synthetic stuff. I had about a 1/4 of the resivior left with cat oil and put this shell advanced in could this be messing with anything or could it be the fact that the shell advance is not fully synthetic ? Should I siphon out my fuel and/or oil ?

 

[cumminshp]

if you leave it unplugged you have no protection against a frozen/stuck throttle and i think your kill switch is bypassed as well..but its ok to unplug to test...or have a tether if you want to do away with it...me ...i have both..

the plug is up by your steering column...is it in your owners manual..??

I don't have the owners manual. Is the plug for the tss (clutch side) on the right side of the sled when you looking at it from the front ?

 

[m8magicandmystery]

from my manual..07...should be similar


removed this info..it was for different sled....go to next post

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Troubleshooting
Ignition System
(EFI Models)
When troubleshooting the standard “normally open”
ignition system, use the following procedure.
1. Remove the spark plugs and visually check their
condition. Replace any fouled plug. Attach the
spark plugs to the high tension leads and ground
them on the cylinder heads.
��NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch and the
emergency stop switch are in the ON position.
2. Crank the engine over and check for spark. If no
spark is present, check to make sure the throttle
cable is properly tensioned. Compress the throttle
control and while holding the throttle control in
this position, crank the engine over and check for
spark. If spark is now present, adjust the throttle
cable tension.




3. If no spark is present, disconnect the main wiring
harness from the engine. Crank the engine over. If
spark is present, the problem is either one or more
of the following:



you can try running and testing at this stage with the harness disconnected and see if your problems disappear....




A. Defective emergency stop switch
B. Defective safety switch in throttle-control
housing
C. Corroded or loose wire connection at the throttle-
control housing or main wiring harness
D. Defective ignition switch
��NOTE: To check these possible causes, proceed
to Testing Ignition System.





Testing Ignition System
(EFI Models)
��NOTE: There must be free-play between the
throttle lever and the control housing.
MAIN WIRING AND SAFETY
SWITCHES
1. Check the wiring connections coming from the
ignition key and emergency stop switches. The
throttle control switch connector is located on the
front side of the steering post. If any of the connections
appear dirty or corroded, clean them with
fine sandpaper and compressed air; then connect
all wires and squeeze the connections with a pliers
for additional tightness.
2. Disconnect the main wiring harness connector
coming from the engine stator assembly. Disconnecting
this connector will bypass the main wiring
harness and all switches which will not allow the
engine to be shut off without first installing an
additional auxiliary ground wire.
3. Insert an auxiliary ground wire into the black wire
of the four-wire main harness connector on the
engine side. To stop the engine once it has been
started, touch the auxiliary ground wire to the
engine.
4. Support the rear of the snowmobile up on a
shielded safety stand; then set the brake lever lock.
Inspect the complete throttle mechanism to assure
that it's working properly.
5. Attempt to start the engine. To stop the engine (if
the engine starts), touch the auxiliary ground wire
installed into the four-wire connector to a ground
on the engine. If the engine fails to start, the problem
is with the coils mounted on the engine, high
tension coil assembly, or the ECU. If the engine
starts, the problem is with the switches, main wiring
harness, or throttle cable free-play.
IGNITION KEY SWITCH
1. Disconnect the ignition key switch connectors;
then connect the ohmmeter leads to each of the
ignition key switch terminals
2. With the switch in the OFF position, the meter
must read less than 1 ohm of resistance.
3. With the switch in the ON position, the meter must
read OL (infinite resistance).
THROTTLE CONTROL SWITCH
1. Verify that the throttle cable has free-play between
the throttle lever and control housing.
2. Disconnect the throttle control switch connector;
then connect one ohmmeter lead to the brown wire
and the other lead to the black/white wire of the
emergency stop switch.
3. With the throttle lever in the idle position and the
emergency stop knob in the up (RUN) position,
the meter must read no resistance (open). If the
meter reads resistance (closed), replace the switch.
4. With the throttle lever in the idle position and the
emergency stop knob in the down (STOP) position,
the meter must read resistance (closed). If the
meter reads no resistance (open), replace the
switch. With the emergency stop knob still in the
down (STOP) position, move the throttle lever to
the wide open position. The meter must read no
resistance (open). If the meter reads resistance
(closed), replace the switch.
5. Connect one ohmmeter lead to the brown wire and
the other lead to the violet wire. With the emergency
stop knob in the down (STOP) position, the
meter must read resistance (closed). If the meter
reads no resistance (open), replace the switch.
With the emergency stop knob in the up (RUN)
position, the meter must read no resistance (open).
If the meter reads resistance (closed), replace the
switch.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Put 87 octane in it, WTF are you running 94 for, it will run better and have more power with 87. It has a det sensor to no worries about to little.

 

[cumminshp]

Put 87 octane in it, WTF are you running 94 for, it will run better and have more power with 87. It has a det sensor to no worries about to little.

Its because our chevron has 91 and 94 so i ran the highest octane. I know on my m7 it ran worse on high octane. I drained all the fuel out today. There was quit a bit of setiment and for some odd reason some pine needles in the tank. I thought higher octance on the m8's were better but ill run some 87 now and see if that helps. Wyo do you think thats all it could have been making it want to die ??

Also what did you mean by the no worries about to little ? I don't really get what your trying to say, maybe im reading it wrong.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

You only need more octane for the 2010 m8's and newer, or if you put a pipe on the sled or performance mods. What you have will be fine on 87.

No worries means if you where to put in to low of octane the det sensor will save the engine from detonation.

The only reason you need high octane is if you put to much pressure on low octane it will blow up to soon. like a diesel pickup, diesel blows up under compression and heat, the higher either of those elements go the sooner it goes boom. Think of diesel as 70 octane, Goes bang under pressure and creates a ton of power. Well if you increase hp you increase the rate of compression, or if you reduce the cylinder chamber you increase compression, at that point you need more octane to keep it from blowing up under pressure. In a 2 stroke if it blows under pressure it will melt the piston because it burns to soon and can't get out thus the heat goes into the piston and melts it.

As you go up in elevation you loose hp so the higher you go the lower the rate of compression, and the octane requirement goes down.

My 2012 runs great on 85octane at 10k. and like I said kinda like a diesel the more bang the more torque, so you actually have more bottom end snap with low octane (torque) but never go to low.

Higher octane actually means less power if its not needed.

Or think of this, low octane goes band, high octane burns.

it may not be the problem but you will need to find out.

 

[cumminshp]

well syphined the 94 out and found the tank had a bunch of sediment and some pine needles in it. Just took it for a 10 min ride and it only want to die once but didn't seem as bad. No codes flashed before and still no codes have flashed. Could it be the sediment that was in the tank or the high octane and now its burning it out.

Where is the fuel filters in these sleds? I want to check that.

Also do you guys think it is just the tss still ? If its the tss and i ride it will it be ok still to just ride and if it dies restart it and ride. Just going to go in a field with friends and family with a bunch of sleds just a Christmas tradition but don't want to f**k anything up.

Also even if its reed or a frayed throttle cable or the adjutment would riding it hurt anything still ?


Please someone help would be much appreciated. Also merry Christmas and happy holidays guys and thanks for all the help so far.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Throw in new plugs and ride it to see what happens.

 

[cumminshp]

Throw in new plugs and ride it to see what happens.

I will but also i had the handlebar post cover off that hides the wires and the riser and it only tried to die once put it back on and it died twice so have a feeling its the tss wire or another one. Where can i unplug the tss wire ?

 

[m8magicandmystery]

just make sure the wire harness going up your post to the bars is unplugged...follow it down backwards from the bars...should be a plug midway on the mag side of the post..
unplug it and if it runs your problem is upstream on your bars or switches...ps...re-assemble all plugs with dielectric grease..

ps...while your in the area...the coils loosen often...retighten them to chassis..

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Does it have hand guards,

make sure throttle cable is not tight with pressure on it.