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need help ..carb and clutch on rmk 700

i have a 97 rmk mod i am building...i just got my digatron hooked up and now i am starting to tune it.....i need info on both clutch set ups and carb set up.....when i crack it open it spikes to 8600 rpm then shoot down to 7700 and stays there ..why does it spike on first throttle snap then drop rpm... and how do i get it to rev out more....

and carbs...i have added slp power domes,twin pipes,slp boost bottle,slp power packs,vf3 reeds..and i removed oil injection...so now i mix gas....first after it is warmed up every now and agian seems like it back fires or burps at low rpm when i crack the throttle..is the from needing better fuel or even race mix??? and the spark plugs are more black brown then brown...is the carbs too rich or did i mix to thick or both

thanks for any help i can get
 
currently about 1500 ...running 10-60 weights and dark blue spring...stock secondary...i am getting ready to drop in a clutch with 10-56 gold spring....

but will be heading to durango next week so that will be 9000+....i have been reading that the set up is good for the higher eleavtion

the clutching in it now is i think is the mountain set up that was left in from the guy i got from...so i am pulling that clutch and save it for the mountains...and the one i am putting in 10-56 will be better for this elev.

still anyones opinion other wise would be great..i am pretty much just guessing trial and "oops" error...which i dont want to do(error)
 
It spikes and then drops off because the initial hit is your primary being setup to hit 8600RPM, but the driven shifts so quick it pulls it off the pipe. I would bet your driven spring is dead. Replace it with a Polaris blue/orange or SLP black/orange.

At 9k you won't pull 10-60s... might be able to pull 10-58s. You ought to be running a Polaris almond or SLP blue/pink spring in the primary.

sled_guy
 
It spikes and then drops off because the initial hit is your primary being setup to hit 8600RPM, but the driven shifts so quick it pulls it off the pipe. I would bet your driven spring is dead. Replace it with a Polaris blue/orange or SLP black/orange.

At 9k you won't pull 10-60s... might be able to pull 10-58s. You ought to be running a Polaris almond or SLP blue/pink spring in the primary.

sled_guy


cool i am pulling it right now and going to change the spring and see if that helps...i think your right as some times after a hard pull the primary sometimes wont go back to neutral position until you shut it down....i will let you know...thanks
 
Here was my set up from 7000 to 8000 ft, dark blue polaris primary spring, 10-56 weights, silver/blue polaris secondary spring in the middle hole. 155 main jets and needles in the third hole from the bottom. With twins, you probably want 158 mains. Above 9000, you will need the almond primary spring, and tighten you secondary spring up a hole or two. If your secondary spring is sacked out, these older 700's will fluctuate on rpm's like when climbing hills, or if your under a heavy load like in really deep snow. It's only $20 for a new spring so I would suggest putting in a new one every so often.
 
Here was my set up from 7000 to 8000 ft, dark blue polaris primary spring, 10-56 weights, silver/blue polaris secondary spring in the middle hole. 155 main jets and needles in the third hole from the bottom. With twins, you probably want 158 mains. Above 9000, you will need the almond primary spring, and tighten you secondary spring up a hole or two. If your secondary spring is sacked out, these older 700's will fluctuate on rpm's like when climbing hills, or if your under a heavy load like in really deep snow. It's only $20 for a new spring so I would suggest putting in a new one every so often.

thanks

what do you folks think about replacing stock clutch for a roller secondary,,,like a stock cat roller see'em go cheap 40-50 on ebay....if i did that what spring and helix would be best...thanks
 
I liked the cat roller on my 99. Ran straight 49 with yellow spring in middle hole. Tried Sno Pro green, but I couldn't get it to backshift as well as the yellow. It always seemed to lug down the motor. Almond round spring in the primary and 10-60 for me, max elevation 8500 ft. I got over 1500 miles on one belt with this setup!!!!
 
I liked the cat roller on my 99. Ran straight 49 with yellow spring in middle hole. Tried Sno Pro green, but I couldn't get it to backshift as well as the yellow. It always seemed to lug down the motor. Almond round spring in the primary and 10-60 for me, max elevation 8500 ft. I got over 1500 miles on one belt with this setup!!!!

what would you run for 8500+
 
i have a 97 rmk mod i am building...i just got my digatron hooked up and now i am starting to tune it.....i need info on both clutch set ups and carb set up.....when i crack it open it spikes to 8600 rpm then shoot down to 7700 and stays there ..why does it spike on first throttle snap then drop rpm... and how do i get it to rev out more....

and carbs...i have added slp power domes,twin pipes,slp boost bottle,slp power packs,vf3 reeds..and i removed oil injection...so now i mix gas....first after it is warmed up every now and agian seems like it back fires or burps at low rpm when i crack the throttle..is the from needing better fuel or even race mix??? and the spark plugs are more black brown then brown...is the carbs too rich or did i mix to thick or both

thanks for any help i can get


i am still looking for some carb help
 
What pilots, needles, stock air box? length of track,gears are you running?? Cat secondary clutch works great! Use at least prem fuel or a mix of c12 and a syn oil

pilots not sure(stock),needles(stock)middle clip....air box stock plus a few extrs holes....gears too are stock..runnin a 144..been running prem(91 oct)....i think i am going to run the cat clutch....still need more input on the carbs
 
You might try talking to MCB Performance at (810) 395-7162. At one time the Carb kits for the 700's containing new Slides and custom needles that stopped all the burps and backfires.
 
on the 97 polaris

i had one of these sleds a while back and to fix the problem i had the heads shaved and on the low end you can put a primer on it for like fifty bucks and while its warming up pump the primer like five times real fast and it wont do it untill it is cold agian.
 
what would you run for 8500+

I would start with 10-58 and see what it does.

As for fuel, it depends what SLP heads you have. I would think with heads and twins you are getting close to the limit of good premium fuel. If you e-mail SLP they may be able to give you a good starting point. Tuning it will take a little time, and depend on how close to the edge you want to go.
 
I would start with 10-58 and see what it does.

As for fuel, it depends what SLP heads you have. I would think with heads and twins you are getting close to the limit of good premium fuel. If you e-mail SLP they may be able to give you a good starting point. Tuning it will take a little time, and depend on how close to the edge you want to go.


ok i have the pump gas heads....slp recommends if signs of detonation to run one gal.race fuel per tank...but how do you tell if detonation is accuring??.


..as far as tuning i want reliable...not too close to the edge as i have a tendency to run too hard too long sometimes..have not burnt one down in a awhile and i like to keep it that way...thanks your input has been helpful.....everyones input has given me a good strating
 
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