Seems like the one common factor to all the good gloves listed here is a full leather palm... The one thing the 3 or so pairs of klim powercross gloves I have do not share. I think they changed them now?
Maybe not just plain leather but top grain or deer or goat lol.
Lots of gloves out there. IMO the most important pick in your gear if you ride all day, all week. You only need one pair too.
You don't need to change your pants or jacket during the day (thank-you Mr. Gortex) so why the gloves??
Ever one is different. Some are dainty and need help to get unstuck. Some are robust and help everyone get unstuck. Some use a cabin. Some find a way around the cabin. I think that is why there are so many cheap s**t gloves out there. If your with a group of weekenders 3 pair of cheap gloves, all wrapped up in zip locks, never seems to be enough.
I've probably got 2000 or 3000 loonies in almost new gloves from the past couple of decades. Klim, Burton, Black Diamond, Doo, Cat, Cdn. Tire lol sitting in my gear bag on the mezzanine and many went in the garbage.
Some fell apart in a few rides, some bunched up or slipped, some were too warm or didn't breathe, most were too small but looked nice. Some you couldn't put on if your hands were wet, some let snow in, some became frozen or too stiff, some were never returned when you lent them out in the field lol.
If I had to change during the day or turn on my heaters I tried something new. A quest, because we used to get stuck too much and if I needed to take off the gloves to dry or warm that was unacceptable to me and I was tired of using valuable beer storage for gloves and googs and such.
Many things became requirements as I got closer. Gantlets with a quick draw string, Thinsulite (name brand is important), about 200 rate, but none on the palm; Gortex (name brand is important) but a sewn in middle liner (so it doesn`t slip and slide or pull out) that is seemed sealed; soft type of leather, goat, deer palm with full fingers and thumb wrap and a second layer of more durable quality top grain in the needed wear areas on the palm and thumb (just like good dirt bike gloves); a sewn in sweat liner that lets you put them on or take them off with wet hands (that`s why you need Thinsulite and Gortex, to dry out not clam up), Polartec and removable liners s**k here and a good glove of the correct materials is "all weather" already; Bio foam knuckle protectors (because branches sting in the cold) with a minimum of 100ballistic Cordura on the front and gauntlet (because branches are sharp too)and finally expensive (because you only get what you pay for).
Up here a good glove is 300+ all day long.
I bought a pair of some companies guide gloves as soon as I saw them because they had everything my expensive quest had taught me was required. It was so long ago I forgot the name but they have a threaded nut embossed on the front. They were very expensive initially but have been very thrifty in the long run.
Somewhere around 6 or 7 seasons now and ready for the next. I rode a lot back then with a couple of 5000 mile (100 plus rides) years but have slowed down. I still consider 1500 miles a poor season though.
They perform like new (might leak a bit but dry out just as quick so I don`t notice) and the only maintenance is a dollop of bees wax rubbed into the leather and seams at the start of each season. I can throw them up into the air, put my hands up and they fall right on and want to go lol. They are the only glove I use from hunting season to when it`s just me and the marmots lol.
Don`t short change yourself in comfort when your out in the white. There has been pants and jackets out there for all day all season comfort for a while. There are gloves like that too but you may have to look outside the snowmobile aftermarket.