Need electrical help please, 07 600RMK carb

[Sxrlar]

OK, so the day before I was going to get started on the tunnel/bulkhead changeover on my 07 RMK 600, a buddy talked me into going out to the pond and doing some water skipping. And it was a blast! BUT, I was all done doing it for the afternoon, had put on a mile or so total I would guess, when after a few more barley pops, I know, I know, I decided to make one last pass across the pond. Yea, I sank it. It was in about 6-8 feet of water for about 20 minutes. Got it out, pulled the airbox, pulled the exhaust, pulled and pulled and pulled, etc etc. Put the plugs back in, put the exhaust on and got it up and running again.

I am now almost all finished with the tunnel/bulkhead project, and the sled starts and runs fine. BUT, the digital gauge does not work, but the brake light in the gauge stays on, the blue light that lets you know your brights are on works, handwarmers do not work, and the headlights and tail lights are on, but very very dim. I think my ground is ok. Right at this moment I think maybe the ac/dc converter may be fried, number 11 in the picture.

Please let me know what your thoughts are on this. My buddy had an electrical issue on his 05 900 RMK back in Feb, and I got some great ideas and solutions to some of the problems from guys on this forum.

Thanks, Skylar.

 

[cummins17]

if your ac/dc converter was bad it would put to much voltage to your lights and blow them all out cause there is nothing regulating the power.

I have seen some of those multi fuction gauges go bad because they are not sealed up completly, polaris puts a drain hole in the bottom so if moisture gets in there it has a way out.

i would check the stator housing and make sure thats not full of water

 

[sled_guy]

I'm not sure about the new ac/dc stuff, but on older sleds if the regulator went bad you could end up with dim lights instead of blown lights.

sled_guy

 

[Top]

Dude, I have no idea about your problem but that really sucks

 

[Sxrlar]

TOP, thanks for the laugh, yes, it does suck. But, I knew there would be a chance of something like this happening before I made that first pass across the pond. I just forgot about the part that I am a complete idiot when it comes to anything electrical.

 

[Sxrlar]

Ttt

 

[retiredpop]

I would think more along the lines of corrosion in some of the connectors. Pull all the connectors you can find and clean them physically by using a small scraper of some kind on both of the contacting surfaces. You may have to improvise.

 

[rp7x]

dunk tank

take the multi funk switch off , get some deep creep that's sea foam in a spray can oil up the inside ,the brass contacts may be turning green if that doesn't work toss the spedo back in the pond

 

[906 Bob]

Same here start with the guts of the control block/brake master cylinder I've seen those connections corrode from everything to sleds that get rained on, sleds that have been trailered with no cover to sunk sleds. After that check as many of the connections and grounds as you can clean them and use a dielectic/tune up grease on them

 

[SD Coyote]

Same here start with the guts of the control block/brake master cylinder I've seen those connections corrode from everything to sleds that get rained on, sleds that have been trailered with no cover to sunk sleds. After that check as many of the connections and grounds as you can clean them and use a dielectic/tune up grease on them

I agree, you can maybe use contact cleaner to clean, but be sure to use the dielectric grease that will help to make better connections and prevent further corrosion.

 

[Sxrlar]

Today I took both gauges, the original one, and the used one I bought, down to my buddy's house. He has an 05 900 RMK. Unplugged his gauge, and plugged in mine, they both work just fine. Then drove to the local Poo dealer and they had the left hand control assembly in stock, so I bought it. Unplugged and cleaned and re dielectric greased, thumbwarmer and handwarmer plug ins, hood to chassis wiring plug ins, and ac/dc converter plug ins. Started sled up, nothing, no gauges, no warmers, brake light in gauge does not stay on anymore, sled goes into reverse, and bright beam light works in gauge. Head lights and tail light still very very dim. Cleaned chassis ground, which I believe is the one that bolts to the top of the clutch guard? Still nothing.

Keep the ideas coming guys.

Oh yea, another friend sunk his 06 Switchback 600 the same day I did. He has done NOTHING with his sled, NOTHING, hasn't even washed it. It has been a month now, I started his up, AND EVERYTHING STILL WORKS! I just stood there saying, you have got to be fricken kidding me!

 

[Sxrlar]

Ttt

 

[rp7x]

did the guage work before the tunnel swap? iv'e got a poo factory iq shop book with wire dia if you want to borrow it

 

[Sxrlar]

Yes it did, I have the Polaris service manual, for this sled, thanks for the offer though.

 

[retiredpop]

Do you have a multimeter that you can check the voltage coming from the stator lighting coil with? Check it with and without the ac/dc converter plugged in. Check it at idle so it doesn't pop your lights. The output of the stator will be AC volts. This will give you an idea as to where you are losing voltage. I'm not really familiar with the function of the ac/dc converter but it should perform a regulator function as well as doing a conversion to DC for some of the electronics. Hand warmers, headlights, taillights should all use AC voltage.

 

[deepdiver]

This brought back some memories from 10yrs ago when I got hired to bring up two Arctic cats that were in about 65ft of water all winter.

They just are not meant for underwater use. That said I will put my EE hat on....I would bet you have some water trapped in a connector somewhere. Some types of connectors may allow H2o to get past the area where you can see and it is inside. Also if there is any H2o inside anything else it can move around, it can condensate and change the symptoms. In fresh water I doubt that you are seeing much of a corrosion issue yet... after only 20min but dont rule that out.

Electrical components are very prone to damage if they come in contact with water. Low-current, signal-carrying wires will quickly become unreliable if water is ingested into them because the corrosion causes a change in the wire’s resistance, making the signal unreliable or useless. An intermittent electrical problem such as this can be a nightmare to diagnose.

Use a "water displacing compound" get the sled in a heated garage and unplug everything! Let it sit for a few days. then use H2O displacing electronics cleaner of your choice on all connections..every one of them.

Tripple check the Chassis hood connector and the ECU connector. Lets hope the ECU didnt get damaged

If you get it figured out I would suggest you then use dielictric lube on your connections..I hate to say this but you probably should use the "marine grade" formulas! Good luck

 

[deepdiver]

if your ac/dc converter was bad it would put to much voltage to your lights and blow them all out cause there is nothing regulating the power.

I have seen some of those multi fuction gauges go bad because they are not sealed up completly, polaris puts a drain hole in the bottom so if moisture gets in there it has a way out.

i would check the stator housing and make sure thats not full of water

Check for 13.5-14dc volts on your red/white wires. It is possible to lose 1/2 of the rectifier and you would not get the 13Vdc but more like half.

Unplug your hand warmers..there is a plug for the hand warmers,thumb warmers and it also has the PERC(reverse) switch on it.

Headlight sw goes thru a relay...relay contacts may be corroded.

Also when you pulle the brake lever does the brake indicator come on on the gauge display?

 

[Sxrlar]

I hope to be able to check volts and ohms tomorrow.

Found some corrosion in one of the plugs. See pictures. Cleaned them up, plugged everything in, nothing, same issues as before.

Unplugged and cleaned both chassis to hood connectors again, unplugged both headlight connectors, no corrosion there, cleaned an re greased them, unplugged and cleaned again both plug ins coming from the ac/dc converter, unplugged and cleaned the cdi plug in, unplugged and cleaned again the wires that plug into the hand controls on left side.

Unplugged handwarmers, thumbwarmer and perc, no change in the dimness of the head lights.

The brake light in the gauge does come on when I squeeze the brake, and the hi beam indicator light comes on also when I try the high beams.

 

[dieselred]

Replace converter first then cross fingers

Sxrlar, even though it happened after dunking the thing, the carbed 600s have electrical issues right from the getgo (poorly designed harness etc.. Your problem is the regulator/converter (especially if it's the original because they ended up using a slightly different one later to rectify some issues.) Here's some other posts talking about the same issues. Good luck!

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=145520

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80063

http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102849

 

[Sxrlar]

Dieselred, thanks for the links. I am an idiot when it comes to testing anythng elecrical, hopefully my buddy who is a gm tech comes over today to help test things. I am ready to shoot myself in the head. LOL. I won't mind spending the money on a new ac/dc converter, just want to make sure that is the problem.

Today I am going to take my cdi down to a friends and see if it works on his sled. If it does, I can rule that problem out.