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My Sled loader for truck beds w/youtube link

Basically you build a 2x4 frame in the bed of the truck. A 1/2" (or 3/4" whatever you want. I have the 1/2" just to see if it would last) 4x8 sheet goes on top of that frame. The "ramp" is a 3/4" 4x8 sheet that is reinforced with either 2x4's or 2x6's on the top side (to keep from bending/snapping in the middle if your sled stalls out and to keep you from driving off the edge when loading it). The "ramp" has a couple of eyelets in the corners. You use those eyelets for tie-downs to the truck to keep the ramp from sliding off the tail gate when you give the sled some gas. Once the sled is run up the ramp and is sitting on the 1/2" 4x8 sheet that is on top of the 2x4 frame in the bed of the truck, you unhook the tie downs and grab the handle on the end (end on the ground) of the ramp and slide the ramp in under the 2x4 frame. You can have your sled loaded and the ramp put away in about 1 minute. Then you use the tie downs on the rear of your sled to secure it.

I wanted a ramp that I could store somewhere in the bed of the truck. So I thought, "Why don't I raise up the sled (with the 2x4 frame) and slide the ramp under the sled?" I tried it and it works great. The eyelets that you put in the ramp need to have a flat back to them so that the ramp slides in easily. I used carriage bolts and 3 links of chain for my eyelets that my tie downs connect to. It works great and I don't need anyone to help me load my sled anywhere I go, I get good gas mileage because I don't have to haul a trailer and my sled doesn’t get any salt/crap on it from the road. I don't even have to put a cover on it.

The only drawback, if you can call it one, is that you don't have much room for error with the 4 ft wide ramp. You have to have it lined up and go up the ramp at about walking speed. I haven’t gone off the side with it, but you do have to make sure you are lined up good before you head up the ramp. If you have a wide front end on your sled, it may not be wide enough for you. I have a 2000 ZRT and it works great.

If you used it for a dirt bike, you could cut slots in the 4x8 sheet in the bed of the truck for the tire to fit into and have eyelets in the 2x4 frame that you could use to tie the front end down with. Customize it for your own application. I just hope I can help a few people out there create a ramp for their application that doesn't cost much and works well. It may not be the best, but it works. It will take you about 2-3 hours to build it and costs about $60 to build depending on how many pieces you already have lying around.

If you have any questions, you can PM me.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcK-Db4gJIs
 
Sweet!

That's pretty cool, I might have to build one of those! It seems like I am constantly loading a sled in the back of the pickup and it gets old loading it without a ramp.
 
different idea same result

I have a ramp and assembley that fits in the trailer reciever, two pins lock in 2 feet from the top of the ramp. Ride in... ramp goes over center tie spindles to the front of box, hit the reverse button and suck the ramp under the sled. Hop in the truck and crank the tunes and yer gone:D:D
 
Awesome Idea, and cool video.

I use a folding ramp, it folds into thirds, so it's only about a foot wide when it's closed, then I can put it beside my sled. It will only work with mountain sleds, wider sleds slip off the slids.
 
ramp

I started out with a folding ramp about 6 or 7 years ago. I didn't think it through real well and it was a real pain. I'm sure your folding design is much better than my folding design.
 
I built this steel bed rack ramp a number of years ago, works very well. Same idea as yours except with steel..

IMG_0127.jpg


IMG_0128.jpg
 
I'm probably not as strong as Blaine, and hate pulling a dead sled backwards out of a truck or trailer. Parking uphill helps a little, since gravity is your friend. I had to find a better way, providing a "slick" surface to pull a sled out. Obviously, loading is easy with the power you have. With some ideas from RSS, and especially AG Grin (handle) I did some R&D on this task a few years ago with an older, heavey sled. Since then I've change it (and much advanced sled) to a present system that works well. After 5 seasons it's need a paint coat, but that's about it. However I have not kept up on the documentation so you'll have to put your thoughts where I left off. If you email me (not PM) I might be able to take a present pic.

On my web site there's several pages, if you go back enough to check this out. Some of the pictures are lost (went back into my CD backups-but no-go) and I plan to shorten and cut out a lot of the old pictures (sorry, just no demand anymore) but for now, enjoy.

http://www.ak2o.org/kshoe/sm_ramp6.html
 
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Ramp

I'm probably not as strong as Blaine, and hate pulling a dead sled backwards out of a truck or trailer. Parking uphill helps a little, since gravity is your friend. I had to find a better way, providing a "slick" surface to pull a sled out. Obviously, loading is easy with the power you have. With some ideas from RSS, and especially AG Grin (handle) I did some R&D on this task a few years ago with an older, heavey sled. Since then I've change it (and much advanced sled) to a present system that works well. After 5 seasons it's need a paint coat, but that's about it. However I have not kept up on the documentation so you'll have to put your thoughts where I left off. If you email me (not PM) I might be able to take a present pic.

On my web site there's several pages, if you go back enough to check this out. Some of the pictures are lost (went back into my CD backups-but no-go) and I plan to shorten and cut out a lot of the old pictures (sorry, just no demand anymore) but for now, enjoy.

http://www.ak2o.org/kshoe/sm_ramp6.html

Slick set-up. There are a lot of parts, but whatever it takes to get the job done.

You look like you are in better shape than I'm in!
 
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Thats alot of work building those wooden decks and ramps. You can buy an aluminum ramp that collapses in three. Their 6' long and 4' wide and only cost $300 bucks.
 
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