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My preseason to do list......and.......

MikeMetzger

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Premium Member
2013 Pro 163
2500 miles
STOCK with the exception of RK TEK Pistons


So here is what I plan on doing

- Primary/secondary complete rebuild by Indy Dan

- Shocks rebuilt (Not sure who yet)

- TPS adjustment due to very poor/rough idling

- New Plugs

- Clean all grounds

- Grease/Check Skid

Anything I'm missing that I should definitely be checking and or replacing?
 
Last edited:
Fuel filter.

Pull/clean VES.

Sounds like you're a pretty thorough guy. Ever grease the PTO jackshaft, driveshaft bearings with a needle fitting? Those Russian-made bearings can get grease injected, either through the seal edge, or the pin holes after the retainer is removed. FWIW.
 
IMO...some helpful suggestions

Pull the skid... disassemble and clean then re-grease. Perfect time for this as you will have your shocks out.
Carefully inspect the two pivot shafts that bolt to the tunnel/drop-brackets... those can get really worn as they run in the tube with no bushings.

On the 13's... pull the Quickdrive belt and pulleys.. & secondary-clutch.
Check all four bearings on the jack/drive shafts.
Loosen the track to check bearings on the drive shaft.

X2 on
Clean the exhaust valves & fuel filter... the SPI filter seems to be decent quality for half the price... https://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-FUEL-LINE-W-FILTER-121717.html

When you send in the shocks... specify that they only use full synthetic shock oil...Amsoil 5w shock therapy is great.

IMO, Send them up to the shop that TRS recommends and you can also benefit from an well thought out, inexpensive re-valve on these that will help with longevity and performance on a budget.

With that many miles on the engine (not too much though)...
1) Think about a piston or fix kit from the many suppliers out there.
2)Send your injectors in for service.
I've used http://www.witchhunter.com/
With good results.
The injectors come off as a pair attached to the pigtail... the individual connectors on the injectors are glued on and can be problematic if removed.

Not a bad time to pull your fuel tank... pull the pump assy.. check the hoses, and the pickups... and clean out any debris inside.

IMO... if you ride hard...move the ground bundle to a different place than the bumper tab...If you hit something and break the tab... you will have running issues.

Check your throttle cable for fraying at both ends etc... replace if necessary.

Check your hifax, replace if necessary.

.
 
Check your reed petals for chips/cracks.

Check, lube and replace as necessary all front suspension bushings/pivots including ski mounts.

Check exhaust donuts for leaks.

Check motor mounts.
 
I'm glad I posted this, thanks for all the helpful advice! I knew there was some stuff I was missing lol. I made a correction to my original post, I put RK TEK pistons in last year. But other than that all stock.
 
3 of my riding buddies one 13 and two 14 pro's all had wobbly jack shaft. Grab the brake disk and see if there is play. The shaft on the sleds was wore out, we also fixed one 14 on the mountain last year.
 
3 of my riding buddies one 13 and two 14 pro's all had wobbly jack shaft. Grab the brake disk and see if there is play. The shaft on the sleds was wore out, we also fixed one 14 on the mountain last year.

Thanks! I have a feeling this will need to be done......
 
I would also pull the skis and grease the pivot bushings and bolts. I went one step further on my IQ and installed zerks so I can keep it greased up once installed. Just pulled them off and they were slimy with grease. :face-icon-small-hap
I would think the Pro would be a similar process.
 
IMO...some helpful suggestions


With that many miles on the engine (not too much though)...
1) Think about a piston or fix kit from the many suppliers out there.
2)Send your injectors in for service.
I've used http://www.witchhunter.com/
With good results.
The injectors come off as a pair attached to the pigtail... the individual connectors on the injectors are glued on and can be problematic if removed.

.

How much of the wiring goes with the injectors? I'm not sure if I am to play with the glue to remove at the factory connector, cut the loom, or send the entire loom that connects to the ECU.

Suggestions?
 
Both injectors stay connected to the small "Y" harness when you pull them... as you've observed... not a good idea to pull the harness off at the injector as they are bonded on. Sure, anything is possible... but not necessary.

You have to clip a couple of zip ties to free the small harness.

NO need to pull the main harness.

14RMK.gif


.
 
Great idea.

I would also pull the skis and grease the pivot bushings and bolts. I went one step further on my IQ and installed zerks so I can keep it greased up once installed. Just pulled them off and they were slimy with grease. :face-icon-small-hap
I would think the Pro would be a similar process.

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Brilliant!

Do they make that type of zerk in Stainless? (are those SS?)


.
 
Both injectors stay connected to the small "Y" harness when you pull them... as you've observed... not a good idea to pull the harness off at the injector as they are bonded on. Sure, anything is possible... but not necessary.

You have to clip a couple of zip ties to free the small harness.

NO need to pull the main harness.

My question is on my CFI-4. I have the harness out right now and don't see a disconnect between the injector connection and the plug-in at the ECU.
 
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