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My M8 Project

hatchers..sorry about that I didn't see your post to repond to.

This particular design is for the new running boards of the M series (08-10) with the rolled and grated factory footbed pattern. This will be the first year for Better Boards on this model. Our design is flat with no L support going up the tunnel. It rests on the factory scallop support along the tunnel for structural strength...the front footwell cross beam at the very front..the under the factory edge cover using those rivet holes. Now if you are a monster or horribly rough on things I can make the cross beams any diameter you require. We have total custom capabilities and run special orders all of the time so you can just specify your requirements in the comments section of our on line ordering process. We have a stock beam thickness that after selling over 4000 units have zeroed in on a standard for strength while still allowing maximum snow evacuation. Kind of a balance of mass versus function. I may very well add some mass to the front cross beams for jumpers and racers but then we loose some clearing ability. Our cleats on this design are 1/2" high. My personal preference is 3/4" as that gives "BETTER" evacuation performance (foot pressure does the work here) but with this pattern and side support design we have determined the 1/2" is the ticket. Obviously a lower cleat at the ultimate traction angle is more durable then the 3/4 cleats so once again a balance of performance versus durability. Also I selectively design cleats and placement holes as a balance between traction and safety. Some models don't get cleats because you might get wedged and hung up while others have a more open footwell so we can add traction. We also reverse direction of some of the cleats on certain models but that doesn't absolutely insure freedom of movement so we caution on the side of safety over absolute ultimate performance in some cases. Irregardless of wether they are the absolute in traction, strength, and snow evacuation they still kill a stock design for snow evacuation performance and traction. The design completely covers the footbed from the very front of your footwell to just behind the rear bracket. Once again maximum fitment for appearance and performance while balancing ease of installation. I made this model because we had massive requests from new M Series owners even though the stock running boards are one of the more open factory models available. Once you've ridden Better Boards you quickly see and feel the value.

Hopefully this posts answers your questions...if you require further attention you can call me on my cell 208-724-6677 and we can work through it. Thanks
 
hatchers..sorry about that I didn't see your post to repond to.

This particular design is for the new running boards of the M series (08-10) with the rolled and grated factory footbed pattern. This will be the first year for Better Boards on this model. Our design is flat with no L support going up the tunnel. It rests on the factory scallop support along the tunnel for structural strength...the front footwell cross beam at the very front..the under the factory edge cover using those rivet holes. Now if you are a monster or horribly rough on things I can make the cross beams any diameter you require. We have total custom capabilities and run special orders all of the time so you can just specify your requirements in the comments section of our on line ordering process. We have a stock beam thickness that after selling over 4000 units have zeroed in on a standard for strength while still allowing maximum snow evacuation. Kind of a balance of mass versus function. I may very well add some mass to the front cross beams for jumpers and racers but then we loose some clearing ability. Our cleats on this design are 1/2" high. My personal preference is 3/4" as that gives "BETTER" evacuation performance (foot pressure does the work here) but with this pattern and side support design we have determined the 1/2" is the ticket. Obviously a lower cleat at the ultimate traction angle is more durable then the 3/4 cleats so once again a balance of performance versus durability. Also I selectively design cleats and placement holes as a balance between traction and safety. Some models don't get cleats because you might get wedged and hung up while others have a more open footwell so we can add traction. We also reverse direction of some of the cleats on certain models but that doesn't absolutely insure freedom of movement so we caution on the side of safety over absolute ultimate performance in some cases. Irregardless of wether they are the absolute in traction, strength, and snow evacuation they still kill a stock design for snow evacuation performance and traction. The design completely covers the footbed from the very front of your footwell to just behind the rear bracket. Once again maximum fitment for appearance and performance while balancing ease of installation. I made this model because we had massive requests from new M Series owners even though the stock running boards are one of the more open factory models available. Once you've ridden Better Boards you quickly see and feel the value.

Hopefully this posts answers your questions...if you require further attention you can call me on my cell 208-724-6677 and we can work through it. Thanks

now that is what i call a quality post:beer;....will call you mon/tues:cool:
 
Well I have gone riding since my last post here and here is some pics.

Also the sled now has the new Better Boards for the 08-10 M series which are awesome.

This was Oct. 6th

7833_292630220435_796005435_9284212.jpg

nobusinessoct4th.jpg
 
Love it! Didn't your boondocker kit come with the boost gauge? You should paint that raw aluminum on the shock tower white, and a little time and patience with a heat gun and you can pull the tabs on the headlight delete to the inside. I'll attach a pic. of mine...see no ugly tabs!

m8.jpg
 
Love it! Didn't your boondocker kit come with the boost gauge? You should paint that raw aluminum on the shock tower white, and a little time and patience with a heat gun and you can pull the tabs on the headlight delete to the inside. I'll attach a pic. of mine...see no ugly tabs!

Great Ideas! thanx!
 
Looks better now that you have a snow flap:rolleyes: Hopefully my project will be done here in the next couple weeks.

Ya I know, stole my CAT mudflap and a couple dozen zip ties. haha That was a fun weekend, to bad Jeremy had to show the Arctic Cat's whos boss.(POLARIS)
 
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