Awesome dude! any complaints or anything that would make the boards or the installation better? Any flex at all? I bet they are even more SOLID now compared to when you just had them bolted on!
My 08 800 dragon build
- Thread starter 600xc4me
- Start date
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Not really no. The installation is about as simple as a guy can make it for what is being done. And the only thing I wish was different with the boards is the lack of one cross piece by the suspension mounting bracket. Feels a bit empty there when standing on the boards in shoes. In boots a guy probably won't notice it. Not a big deal to me. And yes I haven't been able to make the boards flex at all... The only that gives a little is the tunnel side. And that will happen no matter what set up a guy goes with. These things are rock solid.
My only other question on the boards is did you take any comparison measurements for width compared to the stock boards? Since i know these are rock solid boards and If they truly are wider than stock as advertised i am gonna start saving my pennies.
Thanks!
Thanks!
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
progress
Got some more done tonight... I installed the extra ground wires, and relocated the capacitor. These are not my pics but I did virtually the same thing. My camera sucks and I knew these pics were floating around the forum here.
The ground wires. I grounded the electronics plate to the belt guard, then grounded the belt guard to the chassis through the rear left engine mount bolt. (total PITA to get to)
And the capacitor. Getting ready for mounting the fan over the VR, figured I would get this guy out of the way already.
With getting to the rear engine mount bolt I had to remove the air box, tie the throttle bodies up out of the way, to get at one clamp to do that, I had to unbolt the fuel rail and slide the injectors out part way. After putting it together it started and died twice, (expected) Then third try it stayed running, but idles high? Started off idling at 2300 let it run for a few min and dropped to about 1900 RPM. I forget where it always ran before? Is 1900 close?
Got some more done tonight... I installed the extra ground wires, and relocated the capacitor. These are not my pics but I did virtually the same thing. My camera sucks and I knew these pics were floating around the forum here.
The ground wires. I grounded the electronics plate to the belt guard, then grounded the belt guard to the chassis through the rear left engine mount bolt. (total PITA to get to)
And the capacitor. Getting ready for mounting the fan over the VR, figured I would get this guy out of the way already.
With getting to the rear engine mount bolt I had to remove the air box, tie the throttle bodies up out of the way, to get at one clamp to do that, I had to unbolt the fuel rail and slide the injectors out part way. After putting it together it started and died twice, (expected) Then third try it stayed running, but idles high? Started off idling at 2300 let it run for a few min and dropped to about 1900 RPM. I forget where it always ran before? Is 1900 close?
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
issues
Was going to take the sled out and head to the hills yesterday to try it out a bit on the road up there. (have about a foot higher up) Started it up, let it warm up to about 118 and backer it away form the house. As I let off the throttle it just went out. Died as if I had hit the kill switch at 4000 RPM or more. Found that really odd. It would fire up and die right away if I tried to start it with out throttle. If I kept the RPM above 3500ish I could keep it running. Other wise it just went out. Wouldn't sputter or anything, would just die. So I took it for a spin up and down the ditch to see if it maybe just had to clear it self out from me taking out the injectors part way. Got back to the house and it idled fine for a bit. Then started acting up again. Drove it into the garage and let it sit a few hours, went to try it again and it works good now. Have tried it a number of times since and it's good? Haven't tried warming it up again yet though. So I'm not sure what the dog this thing is up to? I'm wondering if I maybe did something to make my lower RPM injectors act up? Half unplugged some wiring maybe? I'm not sure. Haven't ever been down there before. Any thoughts?
Was going to take the sled out and head to the hills yesterday to try it out a bit on the road up there. (have about a foot higher up) Started it up, let it warm up to about 118 and backer it away form the house. As I let off the throttle it just went out. Died as if I had hit the kill switch at 4000 RPM or more. Found that really odd. It would fire up and die right away if I tried to start it with out throttle. If I kept the RPM above 3500ish I could keep it running. Other wise it just went out. Wouldn't sputter or anything, would just die. So I took it for a spin up and down the ditch to see if it maybe just had to clear it self out from me taking out the injectors part way. Got back to the house and it idled fine for a bit. Then started acting up again. Drove it into the garage and let it sit a few hours, went to try it again and it works good now. Have tried it a number of times since and it's good? Haven't tried warming it up again yet though. So I'm not sure what the dog this thing is up to? I'm wondering if I maybe did something to make my lower RPM injectors act up? Half unplugged some wiring maybe? I'm not sure. Haven't ever been down there before. Any thoughts?
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
ok a few small things got done. I got a bracket made for the VR fan, now just waiting for the fan and a two watt resistor to show up so I can get that installed.
Got the tunnel re-polished last night.
And I just got in from a short ride and found a few drifts to play in. Noticed a few things: For one, it runs much better now. Still seemed to act up a bit a few times, at low rpm it would fall on it's face and feel like it was shutting off, then recover after a second or so and be fine again. Did that a few times, other wise worked good.
My left hand side hand warmer doesn't work?
Do I have a short causing my odd running issues, and causing my warmer to not work? Something to look into.
Wasn't sure if this track would want a clutching change, but from what I could feel, what I had before will work fine now as well. Pulled 8100-8250
I love the shorter handlebar riser, feel really good over all. Never thought I would like it. Its staying on.
I always liked my front floats hard, (105-110) I dropped them to 75lbs a few days back. That along with having the skis moved in made a really positive change in how the sled side-hills. WAY better than last year. Only thing now is with the lack of a sway bar and the above changes, the sled is super tippy on flat ground now. But it's something I can adjust to.
So other than looking into my warmer and odd running issue I'm just waiting on a a few parts then I can call it done.
Got the tunnel re-polished last night.
And I just got in from a short ride and found a few drifts to play in. Noticed a few things: For one, it runs much better now. Still seemed to act up a bit a few times, at low rpm it would fall on it's face and feel like it was shutting off, then recover after a second or so and be fine again. Did that a few times, other wise worked good.
My left hand side hand warmer doesn't work?
Do I have a short causing my odd running issues, and causing my warmer to not work? Something to look into.Wasn't sure if this track would want a clutching change, but from what I could feel, what I had before will work fine now as well. Pulled 8100-8250
I love the shorter handlebar riser, feel really good over all. Never thought I would like it. Its staying on.
I always liked my front floats hard, (105-110) I dropped them to 75lbs a few days back. That along with having the skis moved in made a really positive change in how the sled side-hills. WAY better than last year. Only thing now is with the lack of a sway bar and the above changes, the sled is super tippy on flat ground now. But it's something I can adjust to.
So other than looking into my warmer and odd running issue I'm just waiting on a a few parts then I can call it done.
could you post some pics of how you wired your lights in?
My left hand side hand warmer doesn't work?
looking good man, very clean, how i like it!!
shorted hand warms can cause a bog, yes...is that your case, no idea, lol..
but i would check the connections first, but if not it could be grounding to your handlebars and causing the bog.
try shutting off the hand warmers completely, that way you can isolate them and ride the sled again and see if it bogs still?
just a thought..
if you mean what wires go to what...its pretty simple...
there are 3 wires on the stock harness...yellow (brights), green (low beam), brown (ground)
if you have fog lights, hook them to the yellow and brown. that way you pull the most current needed from your stator.
just make sure your brights button on your sled is selected (will show light on gauges), or else your not pulling the current from the stator and can cause stator burn down...if your lights are working, your good
hope that helps a little.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Thanks man. I did have them off completely at first, and it did the half shutting off then coming back on then already. So I guess it's probably not the warmers huh? Hadn't thought that far. But I'll look them over and check. Where do they short out most times when they do? Under the grip? Or along the wiring some where?
Thanks. Yes wiring them in is simple. Just tie into the wires that fed your stock head light bulbs like Sean said. That how I have mine. If you really really need pics I'll pull the console and take one. But it's super straight forward.
Well this evening my box of goodies showed up from Sled Solutions. Stuff looks good besides that I didn't get the shovel I ordered, and I won't be able to use the carry all handle bar bag.
It's huge! Way bigger than I expected. So I'll see if I can send it back. If not I'll sell it here.
When I pulled the Y pipe to install the EGT probes I found my pistons to be scored to CHIT!
I take back every single word I ever said about polaris having fixed the 800 CFI when used with a PCV. 
I'm surprised it still ran as well as it did. It pulled full RPM and felt really good. Other than the issue of feeling like it wanted to shut off a few times. Not sure if I should blame that on the motor now or what? I'm hoping polaris will still warranty it seeing how un-stock the chassis is now. If they do, I want that cash, and I'm buying an 860. this is motor #6 in 2007 ish miles. If I can put the warranty dollars toward a carls 860 then I might not be sledding till mid winter when I'll have the rest of the cash to cover it. I had a nice savings account going toward a turbo next year. I would use that and say forget the turbo I guess. Just be happy with an 860. But I lent that cash to a buddy so he could buy him self a new M8. Wont get that back till end of Dec for sure. So I might be out for quite a while depending on what polaris says now. If they say no warranty I'll tear it apart and hope it's only pistons so far. Fix it for now and upgrade to an 860 when I can afford it better. I'll go to my awesome dealer tomorrow and see what they say. In a way I hope they do cover it, and that the whole top end is junk so I can go 860. Even if it means not sledding half the year. At least It'll be reliable then. I'll post back once I have a better idea of whats going to happen. But man this just totally ruins the high I had going from this build.
Thanks. Yes wiring them in is simple. Just tie into the wires that fed your stock head light bulbs like Sean said. That how I have mine. If you really really need pics I'll pull the console and take one. But it's super straight forward.
Well this evening my box of goodies showed up from Sled Solutions. Stuff looks good besides that I didn't get the shovel I ordered, and I won't be able to use the carry all handle bar bag.
It's huge! Way bigger than I expected. So I'll see if I can send it back. If not I'll sell it here.When I pulled the Y pipe to install the EGT probes I found my pistons to be scored to CHIT!
I take back every single word I ever said about polaris having fixed the 800 CFI when used with a PCV. I'm surprised it still ran as well as it did. It pulled full RPM and felt really good. Other than the issue of feeling like it wanted to shut off a few times. Not sure if I should blame that on the motor now or what? I'm hoping polaris will still warranty it seeing how un-stock the chassis is now. If they do, I want that cash, and I'm buying an 860. this is motor #6 in 2007 ish miles. If I can put the warranty dollars toward a carls 860 then I might not be sledding till mid winter when I'll have the rest of the cash to cover it. I had a nice savings account going toward a turbo next year. I would use that and say forget the turbo I guess. Just be happy with an 860. But I lent that cash to a buddy so he could buy him self a new M8. Wont get that back till end of Dec for sure. So I might be out for quite a while depending on what polaris says now. If they say no warranty I'll tear it apart and hope it's only pistons so far. Fix it for now and upgrade to an 860 when I can afford it better. I'll go to my awesome dealer tomorrow and see what they say. In a way I hope they do cover it, and that the whole top end is junk so I can go 860. Even if it means not sledding half the year. At least It'll be reliable then. I'll post back once I have a better idea of whats going to happen. But man this just totally ruins the high I had going from this build.Thats a real bummer man... pics of the scoring? Also how does the underhood rsi bag look?
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
I didn't no. I asked about the intake but nobody offered any advice as to if it might require fuel changes. I have maybe 5 miles on it this year. These plugs are not a true wide open plug test, but I had the sled wide open just before I shut it off. And it sure doesn't look like a lean burn down to me. Here's my plugs. One is close, but still quite rich, and the other one is black and carbon-ed up. I used flash, so the one appears even leaner than it really is. And for the fuel filter. Not a new one this year no, but the one it has in it, has about 600-800 miles on it. I'm not quite sure, but in that range.
The mag side piston:
Pto side is not quite as bad. But check out this carbon build up on the top of the piston! What the dog is this from?!
And also a pic of the RSI bag as requested.
Well I talked to my dealer today. He is all for the idea of going with an 860. He will do all he can to make this work, for as cheap as possible. So I'll bring it over to him tomorrow and let them pick it apart. See what they find.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Checked the compression today. The mag side has 108 and the PTO comes in at 110. Not much wrong there... So I'm going to try and get my EGT's installed, put the thing back together and just run it. See what it does. Won't make any trips like this but I'm hoping to get it to fail a bit more before bringing it to the dealer. Bringing it in like this is pointless, but it does need a new top end regardless.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Ok. Had I not just spent all this time and money into I would be burning this thing to the ground right now. It's not good for much more than roasting hot dogs on. Saw today that my bulk head is totally cracked up by the front engine mounts. I have no idea how that is possible? Its cracked on both sides of both mounts. Drove it to the dealer and spinned on about 15 miles on the way there. Seems to work ok, other than it wants to go out when you let the rpm down under 3000 or so. I'll let them tear into it and see what they all find.
T
theshadowrider
Well-known member
Man, I feel bad for you. No idea what happened then? You are running the pcv? Where you running it with the 2010 update with the new head and dual ring pistons? Keep us updated what you find.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Thanks.... No I'm really not sure. Typical 800 CFI I guess. Yep I have a PCV and all the up dates. With the bulk head I have no idea what happened... It doesn't make sense how it would crack there. I'll get pics yet of how it's cracked once I can. My dealer wants to replace the whole chassis if he can.... If that's the case then there goes my drop and roll, all my polishing hours, running board install time and everything would have been for nothing. Huge disappointment. Sounds like I might be buying a snowboard and doing that this winter. Cause this will be a long warranty claim either way.
Keep your head up man. In all my time spent reading these forums i have never once heard of a bulkhead cracking...wtf
dude that is a huge bummer bro.
i completely understand the frustration.
but you should feel VERY fotunate that your dealer is willing to help you out...AND even after you did the mods to the sled...most would say your SOL cause its not stock anymore...and the fact that you still have a warranty is great...
if you have ins, you can claim it on there too i suppose...
if it were me, i would get it fixed through your dealer..or claim INS and hope they total it...buy it back, fix it and use the money from INS and get a pro...or a turbo for this one
best of luck to you man...hope for the best..
with all the conversions i did on my 900. i am in the final steps now and installing plastics..but the fenders/side panels dont line up worth a CHIT! so im getting my fair share of BS too, lol.
i completely understand the frustration.
but you should feel VERY fotunate that your dealer is willing to help you out...AND even after you did the mods to the sled...most would say your SOL cause its not stock anymore...and the fact that you still have a warranty is great...
if you have ins, you can claim it on there too i suppose...
if it were me, i would get it fixed through your dealer..or claim INS and hope they total it...buy it back, fix it and use the money from INS and get a pro...or a turbo for this one
best of luck to you man...hope for the best..
with all the conversions i did on my 900. i am in the final steps now and installing plastics..but the fenders/side panels dont line up worth a CHIT! so im getting my fair share of BS too, lol.
6
600xc4me
Well-known member
Thanks I'm trying. I know, I have heard of them cracking where mine did at the end of last year, by the shock towers, but never ever heard of them cracking here. It's not along a weld line or anything, it's a vertical crack through the aluminum plate tat the mounts are welded to.
dude that is a huge bummer bro.
i completely understand the frustration.
but you should feel VERY fortunate that your dealer is willing to help you out...AND even after you did the mods to the sled...most would say your SOL cause its not stock anymore...and the fact that you still have a warranty is great...
if you have ins, you can claim it on there too i suppose...
if it were me, i would get it fixed through your dealer..or claim INS and hope they total it...buy it back, fix it and use the money from INS and get a pro...or a turbo for this one
best of luck to you man...hope for the best..
with all the conversions i did on my 900. i am in the final steps now and installing plastics..but the fenders/side panels dont line up worth a CHIT! so im getting my fair share of BS too, lol.
Yes I know I have lots to be thankful for still. My dealer couldn't get any better or be more supportive. We'll just see what polaris says... Yes warranty! I have till Dec 22. Very very fortunate that I saw this all now and not later on.
Had a brain wave. Why not ask polaris for a new chassis, and if mine is fixable, just weld it up, and still claim warranty, then use those dollars together with the engine claim dollars to order the 860. That way polaris pays to weld the bulkhead, and pays for an 860. At least on large part. lol We'll see. That would be ideal but no idea if it'll work.
Ah shoot eh. I hate when the end result just makes for more issues..
