Think I understand what you're saying, but the oil wouldn't be reintroduced into the intake stream at all. It'd be rerouted directly back to the case from the turbo. Essentially you're taking the 2 stroke oil, routing it to the turbo first and then plumbing it back into the case where it was originally hooked up from the factory.
MTNTK TURBO
- Thread starter yooper 8
- Start date
M
mike_s
Well-known member
This, but to add, the dynamic seals in the trubo cartridge cannot handle any kind of restricted oil drain. The reason that it works at all is that the drain in this kit is plumbed into a low pressure area, thus the oil is "sucked" out of the cartridge. Plumbing the drain into the crankcase would introduce a host of new issues, due to the fact that dynamic seals are not a positive seal, and it is extremely dificult to have a positive seal on a shaft that spins in excess of 100,000 RPM. So, while the oil pump is positive displacement and can inject oil into a vessel carying 25+ PSIG pressure, the dynamic seals in the turbo will not seal against this, and your oil will end up splitting pathways between the compressor and turbine side seals, thereby wasting at least half of your oil out of the exhaust.
I can't believe how simple this system is. A couple of brackets, new airbox and sensor, install injectors, reroute the oil lines and bolt the compressor on. Simple download of a fuel Map and good to go. Why would you want to bother with adjusting fueling and playing with maps when 90% of the guys I ride with just want to ride, and not stare at guages. Nice work MTNTK.
Hi, I'm Ben, and I've been off boost for a full seaon now...
Feels like an aa intoroduction...So just looking at the different options for boost after next season and reading through this thread. (gotta buy a house and ranger before an extra sled and boost)
First off I think it's a brilliantly built kit. I like 8-10 psi at sea level, so I didn't pay too much attention to the kit at first. Then I hear they are offering bigger injectors, but the comments on the bigger injectors has me questioning my motor knowledge. I had always thought the lower the elevation, the more dense the air, the higher the absolute manifold pressure (atmosphere + boost), the more oxygen going into the cylander, the more fuel required for proper burn. So why is it that the high elevation riders are the ones needing the bigger injectors?
Feels like an aa intoroduction...So just looking at the different options for boost after next season and reading through this thread. (gotta buy a house and ranger before an extra sled and boost)
First off I think it's a brilliantly built kit. I like 8-10 psi at sea level, so I didn't pay too much attention to the kit at first. Then I hear they are offering bigger injectors, but the comments on the bigger injectors has me questioning my motor knowledge. I had always thought the lower the elevation, the more dense the air, the higher the absolute manifold pressure (atmosphere + boost), the more oxygen going into the cylander, the more fuel required for proper burn. So why is it that the high elevation riders are the ones needing the bigger injectors?
As I understand it, the Turbo increases boost to compensate for altitude. Say you're running 8psi @ sea level, it'll maintain the same power at 10k by upping boost to say 12 psi (just guessing at psi figures, only an example....) from what mtntk has told me, you'll run out of injector around 10psi. If you want more than 10lbs mtntk ain't it.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here.
10 psi where? Boost pressure is a relative measurement. There is a 5 psi differance in atmospheric pressure between sealevel and 10000 ft.
D
DYEMAN
Banned
MTntk turbo kit was easy to install , very good instruction ,around 6 pds of boost was fun but wanted more . Install larger injectors , running 9 pds on manual boost guage 140/285 ft spring and 68.2 grams of weight stock polaris weights , engagement at 3850 / 3900 straight shift to 8000-- 8100 rpms stock rear clutch set up , works very well . Shawn said it's good to 12/13 pds safe on av gas . I like its performance at the 9pds the mapping seem very good , no need ofor intercooler .temps taken in the intake at the foam before entering the turbo ( was 59 deg ) outside temps 20 above , also using the blow hole to keep clutches cool , the blow hole is a must have , helps vent the whole engine compartment ,very inexpensive set up . Shawn the owner is great to work with , he will take your call and or get back to you in short order ?. 10/11000 ft
S
sno-addict
Member
Dyeman,
What kind of fuel you running at 9#?
What kind of fuel you running at 9#?
Intake temp is 59 deg before entering turbo?
T
toony
Well-known member
ok
I know what you are saying. The intake temp BEFORE the turbo should be outside temp. Put your hand on the intake box after a long pull IT IS HOT.
This turbo setup works great. You will notice on a LONG pull up a steep and deep hill the turbo will become heat soaked and it does lose power towards the end of the climb. An intercooler would solve this. Just havent figured out how to incorporate a cooler with the oil injecting back into the intake.
This turbo in my opinion wasnt designed to make the huge pulls and shute climbs. It was designed for the 95% of guys who do the more above average riding and hill climbs. NOT THE EXTREME. It runs AWESOME in the trees and technical riding and your average everyday ride around home. I think it is the best built ALL AROUND USE turbo out there. \
Just my .02
I know what you are saying. The intake temp BEFORE the turbo should be outside temp. Put your hand on the intake box after a long pull IT IS HOT.
This turbo setup works great. You will notice on a LONG pull up a steep and deep hill the turbo will become heat soaked and it does lose power towards the end of the climb. An intercooler would solve this. Just havent figured out how to incorporate a cooler with the oil injecting back into the intake.
This turbo in my opinion wasnt designed to make the huge pulls and shute climbs. It was designed for the 95% of guys who do the more above average riding and hill climbs. NOT THE EXTREME. It runs AWESOME in the trees and technical riding and your average everyday ride around home. I think it is the best built ALL AROUND USE turbo out there. \
Just my .02
I agree, definitely a low boost system. 56 deg intake temps 9 lbs boost 6000 ft.I know what you are saying. The intake temp BEFORE the turbo should be outside temp. Put your hand on the intake box after a long pull IT IS HOT.
This turbo setup works great. You will notice on a LONG pull up a steep and deep hill the turbo will become heat soaked and it does lose power towards the end of the climb. An intercooler would solve this. Just havent figured out how to incorporate a cooler with the oil injecting back into the intake.
This turbo in my opinion wasnt designed to make the huge pulls and shute climbs. It was designed for the 95% of guys who do the more above average riding and hill climbs. NOT THE EXTREME. It runs AWESOME in the trees and technical riding and your average everyday ride around home. I think it is the best built ALL AROUND USE turbo out there. \
Just my .02
Didn't do the math but charge temps would very high. I had this on my old Silber system. Big pull and the sled would be running well, then intake temps would rise to a point that it just won't make power anymore and you have to turn out. Always at the worst time. Water 2 Air on my Boost-it kit never gets hot.
Last edited:
S
sno-addict
Member
What is everyone running for gauges? Or are you just using the bullydog and the docking station?
