G
geo
Well-known member
I hope this is not going to start an issue lol. I'm sure MH is posting so all will be cautious and not jump on something without thinking out the whole scenario. Hence the big bold WARNING.
My 2 cents. Not to lead anybody in any direction but for discussion.
I've seen the pics too and looked at my sled and cycled the suspension like I've done to most my sleds.
First, comparing Cat or Doo to the Pro is apples to oranges and that IMO is a big reason this sled performs better than the rest at getting up on the snow and getting unstuck. They use involute drivers to allow the rails tips to be almost at the center of the driveshaft. They also mounted the skid to allow an initial tight track.
The other two still have to run a loose track and have many inches of gap from where the track leaves the drivers to where the rail tips begins . This leaves room for the track to balloon out AND fold back in. Kills attack angle and leaves room for stabbing. Moving the suspension back (or rail tips) is worse than moving it down for these situations.
An example from my experience. On my '12 PC I dropped the front of the rail by moving the lower shock mount forward and lengthening the limiter strap. I cycled it to get to max for the shock and still not let the tip of the rail (antique design) get below the straight line from driver to flat on the rails. Did this to make the sled more lively with just throttle input and to take away some of the front heaviness-diving during off throttle. No issues for over 2000 miles.
Cat moved back and down in '13 to get some of the same results I think BUT some of '13,s ended up stabbing and maybe trenching more lol. Loose track, room to fold in equals oops.
MH is right about the rail pressure there on a Poo skid. Saw that when I torn it down. The Poo wears the sliders on that curve unlike the rest that wear them more as the track gets on to the flat part. So I was leary of using the longer strap in the Timbersled kit and originally installed it in the 2nd hole.
When I installed the skid, I saw some room and and went to the recommended hole (full out). Bottomed out the rear sissor and it still looked OK so that`s the way it has stayed for this year. Like I said so far so good.
Front ride height is part of dialin` in a sled for sure but it is a 3 point balance at least. The Assault wide front end will sit higher. Is it more than the 1/2" hole in the tunnel?
I don't know. MH do you know if the Assault uses the lower hole and a longer limiter strap?
Any how if MH is getting lot's of PM's against trying this then I suggest you listen and think. Just like any modification from stock measure twice and cut once 'cause you are your own warranty station.
My 2 cents. Not to lead anybody in any direction but for discussion.
I've seen the pics too and looked at my sled and cycled the suspension like I've done to most my sleds.
First, comparing Cat or Doo to the Pro is apples to oranges and that IMO is a big reason this sled performs better than the rest at getting up on the snow and getting unstuck. They use involute drivers to allow the rails tips to be almost at the center of the driveshaft. They also mounted the skid to allow an initial tight track.
The other two still have to run a loose track and have many inches of gap from where the track leaves the drivers to where the rail tips begins . This leaves room for the track to balloon out AND fold back in. Kills attack angle and leaves room for stabbing. Moving the suspension back (or rail tips) is worse than moving it down for these situations.
An example from my experience. On my '12 PC I dropped the front of the rail by moving the lower shock mount forward and lengthening the limiter strap. I cycled it to get to max for the shock and still not let the tip of the rail (antique design) get below the straight line from driver to flat on the rails. Did this to make the sled more lively with just throttle input and to take away some of the front heaviness-diving during off throttle. No issues for over 2000 miles.
Cat moved back and down in '13 to get some of the same results I think BUT some of '13,s ended up stabbing and maybe trenching more lol. Loose track, room to fold in equals oops.
MH is right about the rail pressure there on a Poo skid. Saw that when I torn it down. The Poo wears the sliders on that curve unlike the rest that wear them more as the track gets on to the flat part. So I was leary of using the longer strap in the Timbersled kit and originally installed it in the 2nd hole.
When I installed the skid, I saw some room and and went to the recommended hole (full out). Bottomed out the rear sissor and it still looked OK so that`s the way it has stayed for this year. Like I said so far so good.
Front ride height is part of dialin` in a sled for sure but it is a 3 point balance at least. The Assault wide front end will sit higher. Is it more than the 1/2" hole in the tunnel?
I don't know. MH do you know if the Assault uses the lower hole and a longer limiter strap?
Any how if MH is getting lot's of PM's against trying this then I suggest you listen and think. Just like any modification from stock measure twice and cut once 'cause you are your own warranty station.
