MOTOTRAX BRAKE CALIPER

[HELICO]

I torque check the bolts on this track every time before I ride (I have had every year of Timbersled since 2011 never had to do that)
Todays find, bolt fell out of the brake caliper. Lucky I have 2 extra tracks sitting around to rob parts from.

 

[Norma Stitz]

Mine did too. I'm going to drill and safety wire them.

 

[eric82930]

This is getting old dude. I get it there are many design flaws. At least the MTX brake works when the bolts don't fall out. Timbersled brakes still don't work after 7 years of production. I enjoy both ts and mtx enough to ride and put up with their short comings.

So lets keep this positive and help improve the product for those that can't return theirs or enjoy them to much to want another brand. I don't own one yet but back to back I prefer the ride to a ts so I would love to get one that doesn't vibrate the bolts loose. So the vibration you think is from the track right? What would you change to fix the problem if you were the engineer?

 

[Moto4Life]

Mine did too. I'm going to drill and safety wire them.

We have had some overtightened from the shop tearing up the thread that nobody caught, when that happens they can fall out. The best thing to do is to safety wire them, that is what all of our racers are doing. A small hole drill into the end of both studs then safety wire them together, that way they can't turn out or vibrate loose.

 

[HELICO]

This is getting old dude. I get it there are many design flaws. At least the MTX brake works when the bolts don't fall out. Timbersled brakes still don't work after 7 years of production. I enjoy both ts and mtx enough to ride and put up with their short comings.

So lets keep this positive and help improve the product for those that can't return theirs or enjoy them to much to want another brand. I don't own one yet but back to back I prefer the ride to a ts so I would love to get one that doesn't vibrate the bolts loose. So the vibration you think is from the track right? What would you change to fix the problem if you were the engineer?

This problem is worse than I thought Dude
Check this out.
7/16 bolt threaded into 1/8 aluminum breaking all rules for fasteners, thickness of material that is threaded into should be minimum of twice the diameter of the bolt for aluminum.

 

[HELICO]

Mine did too. I'm going to drill and safety wire them.

Your right safety wire may stop you from losing the bolts and bushing.
You are still depending on 2 , 1/ 8 thick threaded fasteners (the side panel ) to absorb the forces of the caliper.
I believe to fix this problem you need to somehow put a doubler on the side panel increasing the threads and a external support to relieve the stresses on the caliper and fastener area.

 

[Norma Stitz]

Those plates are 3/16" on mine, but yeah, not ideal for fastening especially on a part that takes side torque repeatedly every time you brake. Could the pins be joined over the top of the caliper by a plate to make it essentially a U-bolt? That would remove the side torquing on them and reduce the load on the aluminum plates some.

 

[HELICO]

Its not a 100% fix but it should relieve some of the stress on threads , bolts and caliper.

 

[Grr]

i gotta say, for as much pissin and moaning you have done about this kit im glad to see you making these improvements! That looks pretty nice actually. Wish this wasn't the case but I definitely want to see the Mototrax system get to the point I can buy one they seem like the best design, just the implementation is a little sketchy

 

[HELICO]

i gotta say, for as much pissin and moaning you have done about this kit im glad to see you making these improvements! That looks pretty nice actually. Wish this wasn't the case but I definitely want to see the Mototrax system get to the point I can buy one they seem like the best design, just the implementation is a little sketchy

Thanks , I am on my own on the kits I have and I will make them work before I sell them to any customers . It might sound like pissing and moaning I call it awareness. I personally think every post I have made is positive for MotoTrax ,owners of and the market place for these tracks. If you think about it.


If one person does it they think he is crazy
If two people do it they think your both faggots
If three people, if four people do it you got a movement.
ARLO GUTHRIE (Alice's Restaurant 1967)

 

[HELICO]

Your right Norma Stitz , 3/16'' side panel but only 1/8 '' threads on the bolt are actually going into the panel .

 

[Grr]

On my snowtech MX kit every bolt goes into a rivnut. It is a superior kit in every single way and very apparent. All of these fasteners should have rivnuts installed at the factory and I recommend the owners do just that over the summer

 

[Norma Stitz]

Thanks , I am on my own on the kits I have and I will make them work before I sell them to any customers . It might sound like pissing and moaning I call it awareness. I personally think every post I have made is positive for MotoTrax ,owners of and the market place for these tracks. If you think about it.


If one person does it they think he is crazy
If two people do it they think your both faggots
If three people, if four people do it you got a movement.
ARLO GUTHRIE (Alice's Restaurant 1967)

Nice Alice's quote lol. Well, rather than haul that trash up here I guess I'll throw some more down there.
Looking over my ski saddle thingy I can't help but notice that it's taken on new and interesting shapes almost as if it's been in a gorilla enclosure for a few minutes. This part is not up to the task at hand. Obviously they know this because they are offering a "racers" version in billet now. Well, I'm no racer, just a middle aged dude getting into bikes again. So, clearly this needs stronger.

 

[LoudHandle]

Riv-nuts = Laughable

On my snowtech MX kit every bolt goes into a rivnut. It is a superior kit in every single way and very apparent. All of these fasteners should have rivnuts installed at the factory and I recommend the owners do just that over the summer

Riv-nuts are not an answer nor a cure. Give them a little time, they will be loose and just spin in the side plate. They are a completely worthless invention, IMO. Even with small fasteners, any vibration what so ever and they spin, just like a cheap pop rivet.

They are made and sold to save manufactures time and be able to use cheaper unskilled labor. Ultimately it's the consumer that ends up paying the price eventually, when they can neither tighten the fasteners nor disassemble the item (due to spinning / loose Riv-nuts).

 

[Grr]

Riv-nuts are not an answer nor a cure. Give them a little time, they will be loose and just spin in the side plate. They are a completely worthless invention, IMO. Even with small fasteners, any vibration what so ever and they spin, just like a cheap pop rivet.

They are made and sold to save manufactures time and be able to use cheaper unskilled labor. Ultimately it's the consumer that ends up paying the price eventually, when they can neither tighten the fasteners nor disassemble the item (due to spinning / loose Riv-nuts).

This isn't even remotely close to accurate. There are of course different classes of product and a good quality rivnut can hold to the point of stripping or breaking the bolt. Your argument is completely false at best
Don't ruin a thread with false information

 

[LoudHandle]

I disagree, If you can prove it, I'll delete my post, provided you edit yours

This isn't even remotely close to accurate. There are of course different classes of product and a good quality rivnut can hold to the point of stripping or breaking the bolt. Your argument is completely false at best
Don't ruin a thread with false information

It is not false information; I challenge you to prove me wrong. Your statement eluded to a (any) Riv-Nut being a cure. The Riv-nuts that most readers of this thread can and would source would not live up to their / your expectations. There may be some very high end designs that can do what you say; but in your original post you did not insert that disclaimer. If you can provide info on a manufacture that will guarantee that their Riv-Nuts holding power will exceed the torque rating of the fastener? I will Gladly delete my post/s. Providing you update your false blanket Riv-Nut statement to reflect the only ones that will live up to your claim.


So I stand by my Original Post; Riv-Nuts as a rule are functionally disfunctional when used for anything, IMO

 

[Grr]

Oooo nice bold text I'm so intimidated lmfao

 

[HELICO]

Nut plates will not work in this application. The bolt is also a pin that the floating caliper slides on.
There is no room on either side of the plate to increase the thickness or fit a nut plate.
If anything hits the bolt/ pin on the outboard side of the bolt/pin it will fail , only 1/8'' of threads are holding the bolt/pin.
That is why I built the support the way I did in the pictures, it works as a skid plate and support.
There is no way lock wire on its own is going to do anything except that you may recover the bolt and bushing when they come loose.

 

[Moto4Life]

Actually we are working on a plate that extends from the swingarm brace, the 1/8" peice of ss inside the tunnel to the brake caliper, instead of the pins threading is like the OEM design from wilwood we are going to machine our own pins out of stainless and tig weld them to the plate, that way the pins are just resting in the holes in the side panel and get their strength from the inner plate.

Fortunately the design has very little side force or leverage on the pins as the caliper is mounted on both sides of the panel. Therefore the main concern is keeping the pins in place.

 

[jrlastofthebreed]

Nut Plates

Nut plates come in all shapes and sizes and quality. some of the higher quality are basically a lock nut (either nyloc or metal) clamped or part of a plate. They are used in many HIGH vibration appication such as aircraft. Bell helicopters are basically held together by locknuts. and you think your snowbike vibrates? Granted they are higher quality that you will get a Ace hardware....