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Motor Mounts?

S

stickshift69

Member
Is there a difference between the aftermarket 06 mounts or the OEM Polaris mounts? I have about 200 miles on my 05 900 RMK build and both rear mounts are ripped out of it already, I used aftermarket mounts. I am wondering if they are just not as good as the Polaris ones. I do have the SLP Torque, push arms in it and the motor is shimmed properly. Any advise would be great.
Thanks
 
good question if someone can answer it. Everyone was saying to get the Hi-perf mounts but the stock 06 mounts were less money so I got those for the back to go with my compfusion front mounts.
 
The 05... just use the 06 mounts... replace the rear mounts..

Use Grade 8 bolts

AND

Look for the thread on aligning the motor from SW...

Although I disagree that you can actually align the motor (the alignment is set by the front mounts and will return to neutral IMO)... It makes a brilliant point... That the distance between the two rear mounts and distance between the outer surface of the rear-mount mounting ears is different... the motor is more narrow by a fair amount in many of these sleds (2005 900's and 2006 900/700's)

You can shim the rear mounts so that they match the same width as the distance between the mounting "ears" at the rear so that they sit in a neutral position and are not strained from the start.... pretty fast and easy...

Many of the sleds suck down the rear PTO mount and place an in line load (in line with the bolt) on the mount which it was never designed to do...The rear mounts FAIL when an in line load is placed on them.

This problem was prevalent enough that Polaris actually put a thrust washer and urethane puck on the PTO side to help suck down the bulkhead wings without placing undue stress on the LH Rear motor mount, even though it does flex the heck out of the Mag side mount and pulls the general alignment out...

I've seen some sleds go in for this mount update that became "belt eaters" after this was done. (Alignment was pulled out as pointed out by SW)

If you loosen the rear LH mount bolt with the displacement washers in place... you will actually see the bulkhead flex open at that point... when thighened this also stresses the mount casting (#5) in the bulkhead and causes deflection of the PTO side jackshaft bearing location when this is "sucked-down" to the mount. This jackshaft deflection is more evident on the 2005's than the 2006's which mounts the jackshaft (and the bearing-mount-casting) closer to the roll of the bulkhead.

You will notice on those urethane deflection washers a round groove worn in them from constant contact, under extreme pressure against the casing of the LH rear mount (#15)

As long as you do not put any side load on the rear motor mounts...which is what the shimming does.. you should not have any problems as long as your bulkhead is not bent from a wreck.

This being said... most of the 2005's that I've taken apart have torn front motor mounts in them... which you cant tell easily even with the motor out... you have to put them in a vise and lay them over a bit... In ANY case... I recommend that stock-2006 or Compfusion mounts are updated in all 2005 sleds.

You will notice in the dwgs below that the 05 (original) design only had bolt #9 for the LH rear mount to the chassis... This was updated with TSB S-05-06 with the Thrust washer (Called "torque stop limiter and washer") installed in all 2006 sleds. (#1, 2, 14 in 2006 dwg)

I have had a couple of 2005's that I've worked on, that when the distance between the mounts is shimmed correctly... the limiter/deflection washer was removed altogether and the sled vibrated less.

Another problem with the design is that the factory torque-stop (#12)remained in the same position on the 2006's even though the jackshaft was dropped by quite bit. The Torque stop should be placed INLINE with the primary/secondary line.

2005 LH mount Drawing
9292%5C9292c10.gif


2006 Mounting Drawing
9743%5C9743c11.gif
 
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Excellent addendum to this alignment issue, I couldn't agree more MH, there's little can be done @ the front mounts.
 
Thanks SW... your thread was one of the best I've read in a long time!!

Also.. this "torquing" of the motor over with the rear mounts that are out of whack is what I believe is leading to many of the motor mount bolt failures as well.

AK brought up the good point that some of the alignment issue can be made better by moving the chaincase around a bit too.
 
I aligned my engine based on the alignment thread using washers as shims, my clutch alignment is almost perfect. When bolting the engine in place there is no stress being placed on the mounts at all, this failure makes no mechanical sense to me. The one thing that I did notice was that I never had the bumpers right against the case or the recoil, wonder if that may have done it. Have them against them now to reduce the engine movement until I get some new mounts.
 
Too bad Snowest decided to use up the right 25% of the screen for advertising so I can't read the entire write up there Mhorse, I'll have to fill in the blanks.:face-icon-small-win

My compfusions lasted about 4 rides so once this season is over I want to tear it all down and see about aligning or shimming the motor in place better and hopefully get more life out of them spensive basturds. One thing that surprises me is I am on the same drive belt that I started with 2 seasons ago, a Carlisle XS809.
 
Spending some time aligning your motor is some of the best time you can invest in a sled, gives you a feel for... what's goin on in there?, so to speak. Just keep in mind with the 900's, some will be better/worse than others. If you go through it as I've described (in separate thread) you'll see that when it's all said and done there is no "side load" on the rear mounts, and yet you'll have improved alignment with the secondary. Now for the "loosening, jiggle chaincase" approach, that's fine, but all things being equall...by that I mean, you've got your jackshaft sitting there minding it's own business, neutral position, top gear in line & parallel with bottom gear in chaincase, track running true with drive shaft...is jiggling chaincase a wise move? Just think of everything in context & you should get some longevity out of your mounts & belts!
 
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