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Motor Build Costs??

Iceman56

Well-known member
Premium Member
Approximately what would a Nytro build costs with aftermarket hard parts pistons, rods, etc....???

What do you all need besides rods and pistons??

What would the labor costs?? How many hours??

You guys that have built your motors what do you think you have in them??

Thanks for any help, if you would rather not say you can PM me if you would like.

Mike
 
min 2000, rods pistons should do head studs to, imho the stock head bolts are only good once, bottom strainer gasket, side cover gasket, head gasket, case sealant, rod bearings, oil, filter, and about 6-8hrs to disassemble and reassemble. and check all clearances cleaning parts, inspecting for abnormal wear. ok probably 2500+ depends on the shop doing the work.
 
Pistons 600
Rods 1200
Bearings/gaskets/head studs etc 250
Pulling motor your self and taking motor to builder labor about 6-800

Really, I think building a motor is last on the list. Stock motor with a shim and proper gas can put down 20+psi and make great power. I would spend money on the suspension/tunnel. With a good suspension and 17 psi you can climb pretty much any chute you dare. Anything over 17 or so begins to get you out of control climbing the steep and deep. The other reason to build a motor is to lay the smack down in a drag race. Just use some really good gas and crank it up to 20+ with a stock motor and shim if you want to win drag races. If you want to be the top of the top for drag racing and running a lot of boost, then ya buildig a motor would probably be a good thing.
 
yes around 3000-3500$ can for just a standard rebuild with Carrillo rods low comp pistons & head studs for most this is fine but its on up from there porting,valves, valve springs,new cams,lightened crank how far would you like to go.:D
 
Thanks for the replies :beer;

All I am looking for is enough to keep motor together and hold the power, so rods, pistons, headstuds, gaskets should be fine. $2,500 aint as bad as thought.

It's not that I want to build the motor, but it looks like I am gonna have to. Took the sled out last night for the first time was running up and down my ditch (about 300') a couple of times running 12psi of boost at 1600' about the fifth hard pull something let loose, pulled the plugs one of them was smashed closed it had been hit by something:(:( Put new plugs in started it up and something is wrong, I am thinking a hole in the piston since it never even fired on the new plug when I started it back up.:(:( One of the plugs looked like it was running lean so thinking that might have been the problem.:o

Dealer that put the kit on said he is gonna stand behind me and take care of it since he was kinda supposed to figure out how to set it up then tell me how. We talked about AF parts and he's not apposed to it so wanted to get an idea of what that would cost compared to stock parts.

Thanks
Mike
 
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Next question

I am thinking if I do it, go with Carrillo rods, ARP studs, but what about pistons??

What compression and and what brand?? JE looks to be popular?
 
the stock pistons are very strong, you should put in rods, but if you use a spacer and studs you can run 19# with race fuel without the head gasket leaking and you stil get the compression down and save a few bucks. If you want to go over 19# then you need the pistons as you should be removing the spacer and ringing your head and block. If you want a quote on a build call our shop. We are very cost competitive. We deal with different kits as well. Over 10 years of buliding champion race motors..
 
ouch looks like you will need a new block too, or get the one you have repaired. but a new one might be cheaper. i would be really surprised to see nothing hit the cylinders, probably have head damage too. bent valves etc.
 
ouch looks like you will need a new block too, or get the one you have repaired. but a new one might be cheaper. i would be really surprised to see nothing hit the cylinders, probably have head damage too. bent valves etc.

LOL...... well that didn't make me feel any better
 
From what you said it sounds like a Valve. If they turned the head upside down to clean it and it did not check the clearance with a feeler guage after installing the cams one of the valve caps could have popped out, it has happened before. If it were lean it would have been running really bad, the standalone either works or it does not. Hope it works out for you.
 
From what you said it sounds like a Valve. If they turned the head upside down to clean it and it did not check the clearance with a feeler guage after installing the cams one of the valve caps could have popped out, it has happened before. If it were lean it would have been running really bad, the standalone either works or it does not. Hope it works out for you.

Thanks

Yeah I was kinda thinking about a valve. Cause what else would come up and hit the plug :confused:

So I suppose if that is the problem it prolly damaged the piston and head then too??

Well I'll find out shortly took it to dealer today there gonna start taring into it.
 
port it while its open if you are doing the rest...

IDK I just want it to hold together and be running ASAP. I've been dicking around with it for almost a month now going back and forth to the dealer trying to get it to run right, it's getting frustrating. I should have been out to the mountains at least once by now :rolleyes:
 
Dealer got it tore apart found that the valve did drop, pretty much ruined everything.
Dealer said that the "valve keeper" broke. I think that's what he called it, basically supposed to hold the valve I think?
Anyways he thinks it has nothing to do with the turbo or headshim install, he thinks it was a flaw from the factory. He called Yamaha and told them about it and they are warrantying it with a brand new motor :)

So my question is, did this happen becuase the headshim was installed incorrectly or is it actually a flaw from factory???
 
At least you are getting a new motor out of the deal. Are they sending a new motor or just rebuilding the one you have. Most of the time they rebuild them, but my wife got a brand new complete motor for her phazer because of a dealer screwup last year.
 
Has anyone done testing to see what kind of HP levels the stock engine (with a head shim) can handle? Everyone puts in pistons and rods but if the stock parts can handle 350HP why not just go with a head shim and save yourself a bunch of money.

As for Nytro rods being $1200, people are crazy for paying that. I had a set of custom length rods built for my Eclipse (2.0L 4 cylinder engine) from Pauter that were built to handle 1200hp and they ran me $780. This was a one off set of rods, not some mass procuded item. I just dont understand the justification for the price of some of the sled parts.
 
At least you are getting a new motor out of the deal. Are they sending a new motor or just rebuilding the one you have. Most of the time they rebuild them, but my wife got a brand new complete motor for her phazer because of a dealer screwup last year.

Sending a whole new motor :)

being a Ski-Doo guy my whole life I am becoming a big fan of Yamaha :cool:
 
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