C
CoyoteGirl
Well-known member
Excellent job on the DETAILED pictures! 
When are we taking her out?
When are we taking her out?
Mods of an '09 D8, with reasons and pics.
- Thread starter Polar Express
- Start date
Hey 'Girl, it had better be soon! I am itchin' to ride. I talked with Curt, and while we both think I'll be fine by leaving that mag-side template on as a gusset, the more I think about it, I think I should really take the time to remove it, and adjust the affected pieces accordingly. I can't believe I did that. ... Ok, actually, I can. Just think all that loctite wasted.
Just think all that loctite wasted. update
One of the things that happens with the FTX D&R kit is that we replace one of the screws that holds the chaincase cover on with a allen stud, and nut. The reason for this is some clearance challenges with the case being lower and protected by the rock guard. When I was tightening it, I noticed that I didn't like the 'feel' of how the nut tightened. I was being careful not to overtighten, so my guess is that the threads were already weakend prior to me getting the sled? Oh well, no blame intended, it just felt like the threads were starting to give. This bothered me, so I decided to take it out again (yuck!) and do something about it. My options were to helicoil it or what I decided on was to finish drilling out the threads, and put a thru-bolt in from the back side. I could still use the nut and washer for clearance issues. The way I kept the bolt from spinning, is I welded a small rod to the flat top of the head, and that rod prevents the head from spinning. I didn't have the camera while I was working, so I didn't take any pics. But hopefully, my description is enough to explain what I did.
So far, no leaks, and I like the idea of the through bolt. If in the future, any others strip out, I think I'll lean towards this method to correct the problem.
PE
One of the things that happens with the FTX D&R kit is that we replace one of the screws that holds the chaincase cover on with a allen stud, and nut. The reason for this is some clearance challenges with the case being lower and protected by the rock guard. When I was tightening it, I noticed that I didn't like the 'feel' of how the nut tightened. I was being careful not to overtighten, so my guess is that the threads were already weakend prior to me getting the sled? Oh well, no blame intended, it just felt like the threads were starting to give. This bothered me, so I decided to take it out again (yuck!) and do something about it. My options were to helicoil it or what I decided on was to finish drilling out the threads, and put a thru-bolt in from the back side. I could still use the nut and washer for clearance issues. The way I kept the bolt from spinning, is I welded a small rod to the flat top of the head, and that rod prevents the head from spinning. I didn't have the camera while I was working, so I didn't take any pics. But hopefully, my description is enough to explain what I did.
So far, no leaks, and I like the idea of the through bolt. If in the future, any others strip out, I think I'll lean towards this method to correct the problem.
PE
Thanks for all the useful info Polar. I just ordered this kit from FTX along with Avid drivers, 163" rails and Exit shocks. I tore the sled down and now I await the postman. I hope to see a significant improvement over my old setup on which I had 2,500 miles. I had the 155" 5.1 and WE air shocks. I also plan on acquiring the front Zboz shocks and A-arms for this sled.
If all of that works out then I go after HP. Has anyone turboed a Carls 840 yet?
If all of that works out then I go after HP. Has anyone turboed a Carls 840 yet?
How hard was the SLP Anti-Stab kit to install?????
stop, drop & roll
I am up to my ankles in aluminum shavings but things are going good with the drop & roll kit. The pictures you posted are very helpful for guidance and moral support. I do not know if I want to make the little covers for the brake rotor and other tunnel holes like you did. I am assuming others have installed the d&r and left those hole open. It seems to me that huge amounts of snow would get pumped into the engine compartment. Is that the case or not?
I am up to my ankles in aluminum shavings but things are going good with the drop & roll kit. The pictures you posted are very helpful for guidance and moral support. I do not know if I want to make the little covers for the brake rotor and other tunnel holes like you did. I am assuming others have installed the d&r and left those hole open. It seems to me that huge amounts of snow would get pumped into the engine compartment. Is that the case or not?
awesome post
The SLP anti-stab kit was easy to install. There are already holes in the rails, and I just used a hacksaw and file to trim, round and smooth the front end of rails.
PE
PE
Hey Polar, did you take the right template off or leave it on? How does it run?
I took it off. At first, I left it on, (that whole reading concept is new to me) but after I realized I was SUPPOSED to remove it after cutting and drilling, I decided to take it off. Glad I did. After discussing it with Curt @ FTX, we decided it would likely run just fine with it in place, and would certainly add strength, but that it wasn't really needed. I had the time, so I chose to open it back up, and remove it, then re-align everything and put it back together. If it was mid-season, I likely would have left it there, and gone riding instead.
PE
PE
