Mods to my 09 D8
As some of you know, I recently picked up an 09 Dragon 800, 163”. This sled is used, with 1K miles on it, but in nice shape. I decided to chronicle what mods I did, and why.
I started with a used, 09 D8, 163 : I wanted more power than my M7, the best local dealer is Skagit Valley, & they don’t sell ‘Cat. I’m not brand loyal, but I am dealer loyal.
Ch-Ex track : Works best in the snow and conditions in the areas we do most of our riding
FTX D&R kit : To clear room for Ch-Ex track with stock driver diameter. Keep in mind, that the D&R kit causes the axle to relocate a bit to the right side, so I think adjustments should be made for the drivers and track to line up properly. It’s a good kit, I outlined some tips in a different thread, as it’s a significant mod. The template you see in the first pic is supposed to be removed after your cutting and drilling is done.
Avid drivers : I prefer my drivers to have extrovert features, Avid has great customer support. I had heard stories of ice build-up in-between the center and outer OE drivers, and some issues that caused. I didn’t want to deal with that, so I went with Avid drivers. After pressing the drivers in place, I painted my driveshaft. I think it looks cleaner, and hopefully, it will reduce corrosion.
SLP Anti-Stab kit : With the addition of extrovert drivers, anti-stab kits come highly recommended. I thought about making my own, but decided that the time required, it would be smarter to just buy one. Here’s an close-up pic of the test fit, prior to sending the skid out for powdercoating.
SLP can : Removes weight, and preserves warranty on update. Found one used, in good shape, so it was easy choice
SLP air horn : Opens up air restriction to air plenum. This can never be bad. The recommend to leave the interior of the plenum box stock, and I did.
2 Cool Vents : I believe all sleds benefit from venting, and 2 Cool makes high quality vents. I chose dash vent for more air into the engine, shock and knee and side vents to get rid of the underhood heat for prolonged belt life. Here are completed pics of the vents I did.
Heat tape : I also removed insulation foam, and applied heat tape to the underside of my hood.
Powdercoat skid : I took the skid apart, and had the parts powdercoated. I got the idea from Jkinzer, in his thread about his gf’s sled, and asked him about it. He recommended it for both looks and function, reducing the amount of snow that collects in the skid. It does look cool.
Fly risers : Started with a block, but I needed more height, so I went with Fly. Since the caps have flat tops, I can convert to studs and nuts, rather than allen bolts, thus allowing stronger clamping force. Here are some pics of the risers with OE hardware, and then studs.
Studs in the risers : I could not find studs of the exact length and configuration I wanted, so I found grade 10.8 bolts (Fly risers use metric threads) cut the heads off, and chased the threads. I used 271 threadlocker to secure the studs into the risers, then flanged locknuts on the caps. By using studs, I can generate much stronger clamping forces. Works good so far.
Brake line adapters : Needed longer brake line with my super-duper tall risers, so I went with banjo conversions and a traditional inverted flare line, resulting in the lowest overall cost.
RSI bar ends and ODI ruffian grips : Personal preference
OE tether switch : Decided it was about time I started using a tether, for engine preservation since I fall off a lot.
Mountain Addiction track rack : Clean modular system for carrying extra fuel, and a tunnel bag is in the works. No pics yet, I’ll get them up when the parts arrive.
Took off stickers : This is good for at least 10 HP, right?
Muff pot : I’d rather have a muff pot than a hot-dogger.
As some of you know, I recently picked up an 09 Dragon 800, 163”. This sled is used, with 1K miles on it, but in nice shape. I decided to chronicle what mods I did, and why.
I started with a used, 09 D8, 163 : I wanted more power than my M7, the best local dealer is Skagit Valley, & they don’t sell ‘Cat. I’m not brand loyal, but I am dealer loyal.
Ch-Ex track : Works best in the snow and conditions in the areas we do most of our riding
FTX D&R kit : To clear room for Ch-Ex track with stock driver diameter. Keep in mind, that the D&R kit causes the axle to relocate a bit to the right side, so I think adjustments should be made for the drivers and track to line up properly. It’s a good kit, I outlined some tips in a different thread, as it’s a significant mod. The template you see in the first pic is supposed to be removed after your cutting and drilling is done.
Avid drivers : I prefer my drivers to have extrovert features, Avid has great customer support. I had heard stories of ice build-up in-between the center and outer OE drivers, and some issues that caused. I didn’t want to deal with that, so I went with Avid drivers. After pressing the drivers in place, I painted my driveshaft. I think it looks cleaner, and hopefully, it will reduce corrosion.
SLP Anti-Stab kit : With the addition of extrovert drivers, anti-stab kits come highly recommended. I thought about making my own, but decided that the time required, it would be smarter to just buy one. Here’s an close-up pic of the test fit, prior to sending the skid out for powdercoating.
SLP can : Removes weight, and preserves warranty on update. Found one used, in good shape, so it was easy choice
SLP air horn : Opens up air restriction to air plenum. This can never be bad. The recommend to leave the interior of the plenum box stock, and I did.
2 Cool Vents : I believe all sleds benefit from venting, and 2 Cool makes high quality vents. I chose dash vent for more air into the engine, shock and knee and side vents to get rid of the underhood heat for prolonged belt life. Here are completed pics of the vents I did.
Heat tape : I also removed insulation foam, and applied heat tape to the underside of my hood.
Powdercoat skid : I took the skid apart, and had the parts powdercoated. I got the idea from Jkinzer, in his thread about his gf’s sled, and asked him about it. He recommended it for both looks and function, reducing the amount of snow that collects in the skid. It does look cool.
Fly risers : Started with a block, but I needed more height, so I went with Fly. Since the caps have flat tops, I can convert to studs and nuts, rather than allen bolts, thus allowing stronger clamping force. Here are some pics of the risers with OE hardware, and then studs.
Studs in the risers : I could not find studs of the exact length and configuration I wanted, so I found grade 10.8 bolts (Fly risers use metric threads) cut the heads off, and chased the threads. I used 271 threadlocker to secure the studs into the risers, then flanged locknuts on the caps. By using studs, I can generate much stronger clamping forces. Works good so far.
Brake line adapters : Needed longer brake line with my super-duper tall risers, so I went with banjo conversions and a traditional inverted flare line, resulting in the lowest overall cost.
RSI bar ends and ODI ruffian grips : Personal preference
OE tether switch : Decided it was about time I started using a tether, for engine preservation since I fall off a lot.
Mountain Addiction track rack : Clean modular system for carrying extra fuel, and a tunnel bag is in the works. No pics yet, I’ll get them up when the parts arrive.
Took off stickers : This is good for at least 10 HP, right?
Muff pot : I’d rather have a muff pot than a hot-dogger.
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