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Mods for Bottom End Punch

Golanda

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
What is the best setup to maximize bottom end on my 800 155 at
6- 10K ft?

Head
Can
Clutch
Pipe

Is a fuel controller necessary?
 
Talk to indy dan, about his clutch kit. it has a very light secondary spring shallow helix angle or angles. And a few different weights he will cut to your riding style. Much like TRS clutching he uses. With the low helix and light springs.
 
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Based on my experience with a Pro RMK sled, and in order of effect on bottom end punch . . .

1) Higher compression head. Mine was a 13.6:1 Power Addiction head on the PRO. BIG
difference!!


2) Clutching for that head and elevation. Carls makes a GREAT clutch kit for this.

3) Pipe - SLP is a good choice. Small difference, but is noticeable if clutched right for the pipe.

4) Can - this makes little to no difference at all unless combined with the pipe it was designed for, and clutched for the pipe and can set. There is a weight savings though with the can alone, which makes it "feel" like there is a difference in power. I call it "pseudo power" :)

NO fuel controller is needed at 6-10k elevation if you use at least 91 octane non-ethanol. Be careful ripping on it at or under 6k elevation though. May be a little detonation at times and at the right atmospheric conditions.
 
One more option, is to get a set of QD sprockets from a '14 or '15 Pro and install them. It will take your final drive ratio from 2.23 to 2.38. Of course clutching will still be needed to maximize the potential of the sled.

Although a bit expensive, but IMO well worth the money is to get the Bikeman Bully Dog with the appropriate tune for your sled (I have their stage 3 tune on mine). For instance, If you get a stage 1 or 2 initially, it's $50 to get any additional tunes if you mod it even more. They also offer a "SnoWest" discount as well. See their thread here: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401901

Here's what their tune(s) will do:


  • Corrects base fuel & timing maps for optimum performance.
  • Corrects fuel & timing maps for warm weather performance.
  • Corrects timing above 8000 RPM for aftermarket pipes that like to rev for optimum horsepower.
  • Corrects timing map based on pipe exhaust gas temp to better hold in the peak power curve.
  • Corrects steady throttle lean mapping for better throttle response.
  • Corrects Electronic Oil Mixture map for optimum motor longevity and performance.
http://bikemanperformance.com/snowm...bmp-programmed-bully-dog-gt-for-axys-800.html
 
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Talk to indy dan, about his clutch kit. it has a very light secondary spring shallow helix angle or angles. And a few different weights he will cut to your riding style. Much like TRS clutching he uses. With the low helix and light springs.

How do you know Dans angles. He doesn't mark anything? Dans set ups would be my second choice. TRS first.
 
I don't know dans helix angles, just going by what he told me before I got his kit. Also dan has done low elevation testing last year with his kit's. TRS set is for 8000' if I remember right, where I'm 2000-5000'.
 
rotating mass

Zollinger Racing Products makes some good items that drop weight on the clutch and on the recoil. They have a great product and a great price.
 
For the Axys, the Carl's clutch kit is their helix only. The primary and secondary springs remain the same. They also put a roller bearing behind the secondary in place of the washer(s). I am running an SLP pipe into a Diamond S titanium quiet muffler. More power and a big weight loss off the right side as a result. I am running Belly Buster 62 gram weights which work well at our primary altitudes (5,000' to 9,000'). The Carl's helix has two different positions to try too. The only mod that I have in mind (maybe) now is the Camso 2.8" track. I will wait to see how it works this winter. If it is good, I may buy one. It is light for sure. I hope that it is a good track in most conditions and doesn't turn into a toboggan on the downhills. The old Attack 20 Cat track had that problem.
 
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