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MINI MAXX 2012 6.7 Cummins

mine is all stock. i have a mid profile 5th wheel thats between 9 and 10k loaded. i get between 7 and 8 mph with that. last winter, when the truck was new, we made a trip to the big horns late in the season with a 4 place open trailer. we drove 80 mph on the interstate and 70 on the highways. i averaged 9.5......i was not too impressed! empty i get 13-14.

my buddy with a 6.7 powestroke will consistantly get 2-3 mpg better than me doing the same thing (pulling, empty, etc...)
 
I just made changes to 6.0 and 6.7 Fords.
6.0 - SCT tuner / EGR delete / new oil cooler / heads machined / studs /exhaust. The 6.0 is an amazing engine with these mods. It feels nothing like stock. And yes, what prompted all this was the famous 6.0 crap with the EGR / oil cooler failure - at ~85,000 miles. Save yourself headache of this engine unless they take at least 5 grand off the price so you can do the same the day you buy it.
6.7 - H&S mini max / EGR delete / full exhaust. This takes an unbelievable engine and makes it even more ridiculous. But the 6.0 with the mods is no slouch.
 
Stock Input shaft on a 68rfe will twist off at 600whp...

Alligator guys are running ATS stage 4 or Suncoast Comp trans.


Input.jpg


Input shaft that broke at 6??hp and 1400ft/lbs of torque

My Mega is at 700+hp. and here is how I got there.


H-11 Studs
SteedSpeed Comp Manifold
Second Gen Re-Locate Kit
S467 Turbo
Hamilton valve springs and Push Rods
AirDog 150
Stroker CP3
200hp injectors
H&S intake elbow and Boost tube
EFI Live
Edge CTS for gauges
ATS diesel Stage 4 trans with billet Input and Torque.

I Blew apart my stock trans with Co-pilot with XRT on 175 Agg. Tune.

Ive had Modified TCM's to control my trans, 4 Co-pilots, and 3 transmissions...

A stock trans with OD tune and the latest Co-pilot will Handle 450-500whp but not for long.

Yikes!
H&S mini max claims can add up to 300 hp to the 6.4 Powerstroke. Anybody dyno that them selves and compared to the 6.7 Cummings and 6.7 Powerstroke and duramax?? The numbers on H&S considerably lower for all but the 6.4 if I understand correctly. How they do that for that 6.4 engine in particular, and I would think without heavy build up would blow it up also.

I EGR deleted / S&B CAI / H&S mini max / flo-pro exhaust CAT/DPF delete a 6.7 Powerstroke, runs amazing but not 700HP!
 
I have a 2011 6.7 ram with 27,000 miles deleted at 10,000 no problems yet. I have been running the hot setting most of the time then mild while towing.

My mpgs did not incease like I was expecting. I was getting 14-15 avg now I get maybe 16 if I watch my foot. The power is awesome but if I was only looking for fuel economy it is not worth it in my opinion.

My ridding buddy and I pulled 2 identical 29' enclosed trailers with 4 sleds out west last year. He has a new duramax with the def fluid stock and I had mine stock at that time. I had to call him to slow down when we got into the rolling hills (BAD HEADWIND) because I could not keep up then when we got to fuel stop I would put in 100$ he would put in 75-80$ every time! That is why I deleted mine but I am guessing I am still going to sipping more fuel than him this year:face-icon-small-fro

I thought these cummins where supposed to be so great? It is a nice pickup dont get me wrong but this engine is a pig comprared to the new duramax and 6.7 ford in my experiences. Maybe I got a lemon IDK...
 
I have a 2011 6.7 ram with 27,000 miles deleted at 10,000 no problems yet. I have been running the hot setting most of the time then mild while towing.

My mpgs did not incease like I was expecting. I was getting 14-15 avg now I get maybe 16 if I watch my foot. The power is awesome but if I was only looking for fuel economy it is not worth it in my opinion.

My ridding buddy and I pulled 2 identical 29' enclosed trailers with 4 sleds out west last year. He has a new duramax with the def fluid stock and I had mine stock at that time. I had to call him to slow down when we got into the rolling hills (BAD HEADWIND) because I could not keep up then when we got to fuel stop I would put in 100$ he would put in 75-80$ every time! That is why I deleted mine but I am guessing I am still going to sipping more fuel than him this year:face-icon-small-fro

I thought these cummins where supposed to be so great? It is a nice pickup dont get me wrong but this engine is a pig comprared to the new duramax and 6.7 ford in my experiences. Maybe I got a lemon IDK...

my 6.7 cummins is a pig too. what part of ND do you live in? im out west in all the rolling hills. i have gotten over 14 mpg a few times with it, but it is usually 13.xx. and thats driving speed limit and light footed. when it was new, i pulled a 4 place open to the big horns with it and i got between 9-10 with it.
 
I live in ne corner. Ya i think my mpg pulling that 29' enclosed was 9ish. It was pretty disappointing with all the bragging i have heard on these cummins. I had a duramax with edge race tune before this and that thing was way better on fuel and way more responsive. I like this pickup but dont know if i could do another cummins. I miss the Allison also.
 
UPDATE!!!! Be carefull when pumping up these cummins! About a month ago I stretched the head bolts and blew the head gasket on this POS. The diesel shop I took it to said he has been doing lots of them(he had 6 cummins there at the time getting fixed) he recommended putting in arp head studs. So I have another 5,000 miles now and still running with the studs. Now I know why people call these HEADHANGERS my head is hanging!
 
UPDATE!!!! Be carefull when pumping up these cummins! About a month ago I stretched the head bolts and blew the head gasket on this POS. The diesel shop I took it to said he has been doing lots of them(he had 6 cummins there at the time getting fixed) he recommended putting in arp head studs. So I have another 5,000 miles now and still running with the studs. Now I know why people call these HEADHANGERS my head is hanging!

tons and TONS of info on cumminsforum.com about that my fellow nodak. i wouldnt call it a common problem when running lower tunes and timing levels, but anything over the MILD tune, timing above 3 (which is defult), and/or the usage of the Agressive Turbo Tuning (att, which is loaded on the minimaxx when you get it) can aid in blowing the gasket.

what tune do you usually use, what timing level, and do you use att? (like i said, if you didnt adjust the timing, or download the non att tune from H&S's website, you were running the defult from H&S which is timing of 3 and ATT enabled)

did you have a dodge dealer do the work, or not? what did it cost to have done if you dont mind me asking?

oh, and which ARP studs did you install?
 
I run the middle setting most of the time and mild when towing. I didnt mess with any timming or non aggressive stuff. He said there was two options for bolts recommended the highest grade which I put in and I think they were around 1300$ just for the bolts and 10 hrs labor to put them in. Last trip out west this deleted cummins was within a dollar or two everytime fueling up running with a 2012 duramax stock with the urea. Atleast I can fuel up at the same fuel stops now cost 3000$ to get to this point but.......
 
I run the middle setting most of the time and mild when towing. I didnt mess with any timming or non aggressive stuff. He said there was two options for bolts recommended the highest grade which I put in and I think they were around 1300$ just for the bolts and 10 hrs labor to put them in. Last trip out west this deleted cummins was within a dollar or two everytime fueling up running with a 2012 duramax stock with the urea. Atleast I can fuel up at the same fuel stops now cost 3000$ to get to this point but.......

those studs are a little overkill for a mostly stock engine (as far as injectors and turbo goes), but they definitely wont hurt anything. now that you have the studs installed, i wouldnt be scared to run the wild tune with ATT as far as the engine goes, but most of the more experienced guys on cumminsforum.com will say that the auto tranny will be the next to go. first your torque converter will go, and the 5th and 6th gears in the tranny will be next. im not trying to scare you or anything, thats just what i have read. if you baby the hell out of it, maybe you can get away with it. i dont know...
 
those studs are a little overkill for a mostly stock engine (as far as injectors and turbo goes), but they definitely wont hurt anything. now that you have the studs installed, i wouldnt be scared to run the wild tune with ATT as far as the engine goes, but most of the more experienced guys on cumminsforum.com will say that the auto tranny will be the next to go. first your torque converter will go, and the 5th and 6th gears in the tranny will be next. im not trying to scare you or anything, thats just what i have read. if you baby the hell out of it, maybe you can get away with it. i dont know...

That's exactly what happened with my 08s tranny. It had 37s on it though. It lasted 95k with some pretty hard driving and towing by me with a smarty. The TC slipped first, not bad but noticeable shudder, then 6th gear started slipping, so I thought ok, I will just downshift to 5th earlier in the hills, that helped for a while. The HO cummins have a larger TC and I believe a better valve body, which will definitely help, but I think a trans tune and downshifting while towing to keep the rpms up and line pressures up helps the most. On a side note, I got about 11 mpg towing my 40ft 15k toyhauler this weekend at about 70mph with a bone stock 12 with about 7500 miles. Not too shabby for stock
 
I did have the trans download done from h+s also strongly recommended by this diesel shop that put the studs in.
 
That's exactly what happened with my 08s tranny. It had 37s on it though. It lasted 95k with some pretty hard driving and towing by me with a smarty. The TC slipped first, not bad but noticeable shudder, then 6th gear started slipping, so I thought ok, I will just downshift to 5th earlier in the hills, that helped for a while. The HO cummins have a larger TC and I believe a better valve body, which will definitely help, but I think a trans tune and downshifting while towing to keep the rpms up and line pressures up helps the most. On a side note, I got about 11 mpg towing my 40ft 15k toyhauler this weekend at about 70mph with a bone stock 12 with about 7500 miles. Not too shabby for stock

i got 12-14 with mine stock empty, and 8 pulling a 10k toyhauler @ 65 mph

DSCN0750.jpg
 
tons and TONS of info on cumminsforum.com about that my fellow nodak. i wouldnt call it a common problem when running lower tunes and timing levels, but anything over the MILD tune, timing above 3 (which is defult), and/or the usage of the Agressive Turbo Tuning (att, which is loaded on the minimaxx when you get it) can aid in blowing the gasket.

what tune do you usually use, what timing level, and do you use att? (like i said, if you didnt adjust the timing, or download the non att tune from H&S's website, you were running the defult from H&S which is timing of 3 and ATT enabled)

did you have a dodge dealer do the work, or not? what did it cost to have done if you dont mind me asking?

oh, and which ARP studs did you install?



And to add to that....most of the head gask failures are from the guy who runs them hard before they get up to full temp

I ran the mild tune with timing at lvl 4 towing goosenecks that range from 10k up to 25k and stock head bolts. I did go ahead and install some extreme studs for insurance after reading some of warnings on the advanced timing.
 
And to add to that....most of the head gask failures are from the guy who runs them hard before they get up to full temp

I ran the mild tune with timing at lvl 4 towing goosenecks that range from 10k up to 25k and stock head bolts. I did go ahead and install some extreme studs for insurance after reading some of warnings on the advanced timing.

yes, and even the oposite of that can hurt you too. a guy installed a pressure gauge to read the pressure inside the cylinder. he saw much higher cylinder pressure on the 0 HP setting with timing on 3 than he did with the 60 HP setting with timing on 2. MILD with timing on 2 is the closed to stock you can get according to him. and if you feel the need to run the 0 HP tune, you need to bump timing down to 1 or 2

and robertyoke, what gains did you see with the mild/4 setting? i have never ran mild/4. mpg empty and towing? are you running ATT?
 
From what I have read on cumminsforum.com a guy can safely run mild(called tow now) timing set at 2 with no ATT or de-fuels. This is closest to stock and can be used safely for towing. If running empty can run wild(performance) timing set at 3.
 
From what I have read on cumminsforum.com a guy can safely run mild(called tow now) timing set at 2 with no ATT or de-fuels. This is closest to stock and can be used safely for towing. If running empty can run wild(performance) timing set at 3.

that is exactly true for the motor. the only thing to worry about on the motor with wild/3 is the head gasket. if you drive it like a white guy, you probably wont have problems. but the more knowledgeable guys say the tranny is what takes a beating on wild and hot settings.

when im empty, i drive like a grandpa with the wild/3/no att setting. when towing, even the 4 place open sled trailer, i go mild/2/no att.................................and hope the tranny will hold up. :rain:
 
yes, and even the oposite of that can hurt you too. a guy installed a pressure gauge to read the pressure inside the cylinder. he saw much higher cylinder pressure on the 0 HP setting with timing on 3 than he did with the 60 HP setting with timing on 2. MILD with timing on 2 is the closed to stock you can get according to him. and if you feel the need to run the 0 HP tune, you need to bump timing down to 1 or 2

and robertyoke, what gains did you see with the mild/4 setting? i have never ran mild/4. mpg empty and towing? are you running ATT?

I saw some of the best mileage with that tune, loaded and unloaded. But I got scared because of the head gasket issues on the 4th gens. I'm now running the 'norcaler' tune on tow(mild) lvl 4 timing and the mileage is as good or even a bit better unloaded, jury is still out on the loaded mileage but close.
I have his newer tune, downloaded it just before the mods pulled his threads off the site, as well but have yet to try it out.
And no I don't run the ATT tunes, and with the advance timing you won't either because the bottom end is much stronger. The street tune lvl 4 will leave some serious black strips from the light and spin up to 3rd gear by just mashing the skinny pedal.
 
Yikes!
H&S mini max claims can add up to 300 hp to the 6.4 Powerstroke. Anybody dyno that them selves and compared to the 6.7 Cummings and 6.7 Powerstroke and duramax?? The numbers on H&S considerably lower for all but the 6.4 if I understand correctly. How they do that for that 6.4 engine in particular, and I would think without heavy build up would blow it up also.

I EGR deleted / S&B CAI / H&S mini max / flo-pro exhaust CAT/DPF delete a 6.7 Powerstroke, runs amazing but not 700HP!

Go take a ride in an H&S tuned 6.4 and you will see that it is a sweet ride. Smooth as you want it to be and as powerful as you want it to be. Delete, Tune and CAI and the power and reliability increases for this engine are impressive. Undeleted and Untuned! Not so much.
 
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