Thanks for the reply on the TAPP. I'm still trying to learn and understand how to tune them despite not having one in front of me. I'm really interested in buying one. I just want to make sure it's worth all that money.
Matte Murder's M1100 Turbo HCR
- Thread starter Woody67
- Start date
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
Lookin good Matte....I always thought the 1100T was an interesting sled, just too heavy and not up to par in the clutch/driveline areas to handle the power potential. Sounds like you guys have addressed those areas specifically. Hows does this compare to the Nitro turbo?
is the c3 belt drive worth the extra bucks? looks sweet and thinking about getting one just dont know if ur gonna get $1300 of performance outa it?
I
izzni
Well-known member
I'm working on a reflash of the stock gauge to add the ability to display boost, afr, etc, in addition to correct the odomotere inaccurances. It should be available sometime in September based on my current ratevof progress. A bit ago I created a thread on the project (the video is outdated since it was based on how far I had gotten at the time):
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=346078
At some point, perhaps mid sledding season, I will have a gauge made from scratch that will have a larger screen and show more at once. No guarentees on that though.
Sorry about a derailed post... That sled is quite tight. The belt drive makes me drool...
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joe I am pretty sure it's just a tuning issue as Woody says. The primary was a lot cooler than we have ever had it. It was keeping the engine off the rev limiter but still over the top of the power band. That is a four post clutch and we have the ability to get enough weight in it. I want to be on clicker 2-3 at 78-7900. I would be surprised if someone can get a stock clutch to hold back a 300HP tune. I think you jump off a money cliff when you go above 250HP on these sleds.
Rocky I think the belt drive is pretty important. It is a real 12lb drop in weight with 8lbs of rotating mass in oil as a big part of that. I think with a stock sled up to a 250HP sled you would really notice it. You can feel it rev quicker with the 300 tune but I think you would have the sled clutched well both before and after the change to really feel the true difference. I bought the belt drive to SAVE me money and hassle more than for a performance upgrade. This summer EVO will give us SC guys more power. I would bet we are in the 330 range with just a reflash. The chain is problematic and when they break they cause a lot of expensive damage, just getting parts sidelined guys this year. And towing this tank is an issue. You definitely aren't going to tow it up a steep hill unless you have rope, tackle and the track freed up or on a slide.
I have a pretty slick T Nytro too. I have had some pretty wicked work issues this season so I didn't get to ride it as much as I wanted. The Nytro has a Gen I KMOD and Raptors, Skinz front end, Air Frames, steering post etc with a MCXPRESS 270HP kit. Engine runs "well", has tons of power, driveline is bullet proof etc. The engine doesn't run nearly as clean as the Cat. The Cat runs PERFECTLY. I have yet to have even a stumble. Starts immediately etc. But the handling is way off the Cat. In super deep snow they are both easy to ride but as the conditions get tougher and the trees get tighter the Cat is just better. My goal is to ride that Cat nearly every where I ride my 2 strokes and maybe a few places you can't get an NA sled. My boys are graduating CC next fall and they are going to take the winter off school so this should be our winter to just ride as much as we want.
Rocky I think the belt drive is pretty important. It is a real 12lb drop in weight with 8lbs of rotating mass in oil as a big part of that. I think with a stock sled up to a 250HP sled you would really notice it. You can feel it rev quicker with the 300 tune but I think you would have the sled clutched well both before and after the change to really feel the true difference. I bought the belt drive to SAVE me money and hassle more than for a performance upgrade. This summer EVO will give us SC guys more power. I would bet we are in the 330 range with just a reflash. The chain is problematic and when they break they cause a lot of expensive damage, just getting parts sidelined guys this year. And towing this tank is an issue. You definitely aren't going to tow it up a steep hill unless you have rope, tackle and the track freed up or on a slide.
I have a pretty slick T Nytro too. I have had some pretty wicked work issues this season so I didn't get to ride it as much as I wanted. The Nytro has a Gen I KMOD and Raptors, Skinz front end, Air Frames, steering post etc with a MCXPRESS 270HP kit. Engine runs "well", has tons of power, driveline is bullet proof etc. The engine doesn't run nearly as clean as the Cat. The Cat runs PERFECTLY. I have yet to have even a stumble. Starts immediately etc. But the handling is way off the Cat. In super deep snow they are both easy to ride but as the conditions get tougher and the trees get tighter the Cat is just better. My goal is to ride that Cat nearly every where I ride my 2 strokes and maybe a few places you can't get an NA sled. My boys are graduating CC next fall and they are going to take the winter off school so this should be our winter to just ride as much as we want.
Thanks for the feedback. I know it takes a lot of $$ after 250 HP. I'm just weighing out the options on primary's. I like the TAPP and STM rage. I'm leaning towards the TAPP, but I'd like to know if it's worth the extra money over the STM.
I have no experience with the STM so no comment. The TAPP is a 4 post clutch so getting enough weight in it doesn't seem to be a problem. It is extremely well made, looks like jewelry. I like the clickers although some think it's a gimmick. I'm going to the VMap system next year so it will be nice to be able to switch the clutching around to match power levels if needed.
why would they be a gimmick?
B
BURN EM
New member
TAPP vs STM
Ok so this is based of my experience with a T-1200 ski-doo
I have a customer with a STM and could never get the rpms right with it in about 600 miles... so I took it apart and found that the rollers were not touching one ramp and on a angle on two and full on one but had a dimple in it.. sent it back to STM over night ($180.00) was told the clutch was fine and they put new ramps in at no charge... got it back and put feller gauges in and it was the same thing with the rollers... Put a TAPP on it after I found out that this was a common problem with the STM and with in half and hour I had that thing pulling his arms off... it made the sled come to life.. will never put anything on but a TAPP.. well worth every penny and then some.. also just a foot note a got mine from Powderlites
Ok so this is based of my experience with a T-1200 ski-doo
I have a customer with a STM and could never get the rpms right with it in about 600 miles... so I took it apart and found that the rollers were not touching one ramp and on a angle on two and full on one but had a dimple in it.. sent it back to STM over night ($180.00) was told the clutch was fine and they put new ramps in at no charge... got it back and put feller gauges in and it was the same thing with the rollers... Put a TAPP on it after I found out that this was a common problem with the STM and with in half and hour I had that thing pulling his arms off... it made the sled come to life.. will never put anything on but a TAPP.. well worth every penny and then some.. also just a foot note a got mine from Powderlites
Thanks for the great feedback. I think I'm going with Tapp. Did powderlites set up the clutch for you for a turbo? They said it would be 95% tuned in for me. Just curious how close they get it.
Sounds like a lot of "Look what I got!!!". Keep throwing money at it and you will eventually win best of show!!
T
Turbo11T
Well-known member
Not sure how you meant this. . . But it seems like your a little jealous. These guys are spending alot of money to figure out what works on a big hp 1100 turbo. Putting power to the ground has been troublesome on the 1100 turbo. It is nice of them to share with us what is working and not.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Matte, Did you ever think about putting yamaha clutches on it? Seems to me that the apex's and nytros don't have the same issue with bouncing on the rev limiter. What would it take to make a yamaha primary fit? I know that this winter all the secondary would need is the jackshaft yamaha is so kindly making for us.
Let's just say I have less than 3k in mine and it performs just as good if not better with out all the Bling. It just takes the knowledge of how things work and address the problem by fixing it not throwing money at it. I am not jealous because I know what works and what is a waste of money. You can keep reading all the BS on here and believe what you want. I ride hard and know what products are for the trailer queens. If I posted you need a water cooled muffler bearing with piston return spring, there's people that would run out and buy it.
Would love to hear about your setup...
I will not argue that some products do not live up to the claims. But a few of us have had driveline issues (some with stock power, some with added horsepower), but as a group we tend to share info to other forum members to try and help them out. If your sled is as good or better with a 3k investment, please feel free to post it for others so we might experience a bit of your success story - hell, there are a few vendors on this forum that would love to have your knowledge. I'm not doubting your claims, but where many are offering detailed descriptions of what they've done to accomplish reliability along with horsepower increase, you are simply stating that your sled works "as good or better" with minimal $$$ spent. I eagerly await your response and your rendition of "what works".
X2!!!! elighten us wise one. these threads are designed to help people not to keep "secretes" and bash
