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Massive Snow injestion

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I have been putting 3/8" bead of grease from grease gun on female or hood intake slot. It completely quit sucking in snow dust but its messy for sure. Use a high temp grease so it stays stiff low temp will melt and run all over and not seal

Your hood seams must be ok. Mine I put a flashlight thru front nose hole and could see daylight thru lower nose cone side wall seams. Actually quite a bit of daylight on the bottom end. So I took it all apart and silicone the all the seams.
Brutal intake.
 
The round SLP intakes are what I was referring too. There really isn’t a good flat surface on the air box to put them. If you look inside there is internal baffling/partitions that prevents you from being able to install them on the flat surfaces lower down on the air box. Going to need to get creative to get them installed.

I always thought as far as the intake design goes that the screen on the inside of the horn by the google bag would be able to pull enough air when the top/outside screens were plugged but this is not the case....
 
The round SLP intakes are what I was referring too. There really isn’t a good flat surface on the air box to put them. If you look inside there is internal baffling/partitions that prevents you from being able to install them on the flat surfaces lower down on the air box. Going to need to get creative to get them installed.

I always thought as far as the intake design goes that the screen on the inside of the horn by the google bag would be able to pull enough air when the top/outside screens were plugged but this is not the case....

I agree with what you're saying, it would appear the bottom vents on the triangular screen wouldn't get plugged off, but they do. Like you said, uphill is fine, downhill fast is typically fine for me, but slower downhill and it's buried and stops running completely until cleared.

So, do you know if this inner baffling is on the interior of the box directly forward of the goggle bag where there's a pretty good flat spot? I was hoping this location might be far enough forward to not get buried and have some access to cool air?
 
No problem on my 18 mountain cat. Hood fits fine and no snow going in.

Lähetetty minun Armor_3 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 
I agree with what you're saying, it would appear the bottom vents on the triangular screen wouldn't get plugged off, but they do. Like you said, uphill is fine, downhill fast is typically fine for me, but slower downhill and it's buried and stops running completely until cleared.

So, do you know if this inner baffling is on the interior of the box directly forward of the goggle bag where there's a pretty good flat spot? I was hoping this location might be far enough forward to not get buried and have some access to cool air?

The inner baffles from what I could see basically start at a similar width of the intake horns where they enter the top of the air box and then distance between them narrows as they go towards the nose. I tried to install an slp vent on the flat spot mid way down the hood on the mag side of hood where it wouldn’t be above the pipe and could pull some cold air from the forward facing vent screen. Hit one of the baffles with one part of the hole saw. You could probably split the space between the baffles on the flat spot closest to goggle bag with good results I was just trying to avoid that area because it’s seems like the chimney effect of all hot air rising towards this spot was not ideal.
 
The inner baffles from what I could see basically start at a similar width of the intake horns where they enter the top of the air box and then distance between them narrows as they go towards the nose. I tried to install an slp vent on the flat spot mid way down the hood on the mag side of hood where it wouldn’t be above the pipe and could pull some cold air from the forward facing vent screen. Hit one of the baffles with one part of the hole saw. You could probably split the space between the baffles on the flat spot closest to goggle bag with good results I was just trying to avoid that area because it’s seems like the chimney effect of all hot air rising towards this spot was not ideal.

Take a look at slps powder valves for the ascender im thinking that might be a good fix
 
Take a look at slps powder valves for the ascender im thinking that might be a good fix

Are they differnt than the 3in round ones ? If so I haven’t seen them I just had a pair of the original round spring loaded ones that only open If the other intakes are plugged.
 
Are they differnt than the 3in round ones ? If so I haven’t seen them I just had a pair of the original round spring loaded ones that only open If the other intakes are plugged.

Yea they are little stainless flappers with pre filters on them... check them out on slps website.. they look like they would be the answer
 

I'm not clear how this MF kit installs on the new chassis. I had leakage on my '18 MC from the air box seams (sealed easily) but seem to be fighting a small amount at the sealing gasket with the nose cone (yes, installed correctly). Seems to me the entire hood can move that gasket enough the negative pressure of the intake finds a way to get water in it? Does anyone know if this mountain fit screen eliminates the gasket between the nose cone and the body of the sled at the intake? I've heard of people using grease and having success.

Surprised there isn't an aftermarket fix for this that works. They need to separate the seal/enclosure from the hood....and fix the flat intake screens up top. Good grief cat. Is this a mountain sled or not?
 
I'm not clear how this MF kit installs on the new chassis. I had leakage on my '18 MC from the air box seams (sealed easily) but seem to be fighting a small amount at the sealing gasket with the nose cone (yes, installed correctly). Seems to me the entire hood can move that gasket enough the negative pressure of the intake finds a way to get water in it? Does anyone know if this mountain fit screen eliminates the gasket between the nose cone and the body of the sled at the intake? I've heard of people using grease and having success.

Surprised there isn't an aftermarket fix for this that works. They need to separate the seal/enclosure from the hood....and fix the flat intake screens up top. Good grief cat. Is this a mountain sled or not?

The defender goes on top of the nose cone piece.

I did this Wednesday to my Hard Core. Took about an hour.

I also di-electric grease the gasket on the intake where the hood fits in.

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Noticed BDX has a hood kit for the ascender...full hood or just the center section. Different intake vents. I can't tell how it mates up to the intake box. Has anyone tried this product?
 
Take a look at slps powder valves for the ascender im thinking that might be a good fix

Save your money. They are always iced over. Not a good location for a raised vent they just catch the snow and turn it to ice. Be better off drilling a hole and adding a couple 1" frog skinz in the same place.
 
I bought a sheet of frogskin direct from them, cut a large square out, put it over the intake opening on the subframe, slid the hood/airduct assy in place, and fastened it like normal. has extra hanging out but, if it prevents snow, water ingestion, it will be worth it. Ski
 
I bought a sheet of frogskin direct from them, cut a large square out, put it over the intake opening on the subframe, slid the hood/airduct assy in place, and fastened it like normal. has extra hanging out but, if it prevents snow, water ingestion, it will be worth it. Ski


Would appreciate a report back after you give it a test! thanks
 
Another question on this - is the water ingestion as bad on the 2019's? I know they changed the design on the airbox etc on the '19s so did that fix the issue??
 
I bet that any one that has this sled if they open up the exhaust you will see a piston on the mag side that is in very bad shape.
 
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