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M7 mods to keep up with M8???

M7 will make 140 honest hp at sea level, but...only if the fuel is right. So check your plugs and wash...if it's rich, have dealer check fuel pressure. If it's high, buy an adjustable regulator mod and get it down to 42 psi. Check the oil injection ratio. Get it down to 40-1 if it is too high. If you are running lower altitude, I like the DnD y-pipe. Dynotech says it's good for 5 hp. Put a shift assist and orange spring in the secondary, and run a 36 or 38 deg. helix, or 42-36 NON progressive. Make sure you have the weight the chart says you should have for altitude, M7 will pull factory clutching in the primary if it is running right, and too light will kill trackspeed, more is better than less. Set belt deflection correctly and keep the sheeves clean. A fresh but broke in belt always seems to help, too. Aftermarket cans are problematic, most loose horsepower and/or cause a bog. I'm STILL running factory can in mine...always consistant. Throw off as much weight as you can afford. I love the float skid conversion from cat, better ride, less weight, reasonable price.

Word on the street is the powerclaw is the track to have. Also the '09 tail supposedly gets more chassis out of the snow and works better? No money for mods this year, still running a-20 in hillclimb, haven't run with any 2010's yet, but I kept up with the '09's last year on the trail and in deep snow.

Not saying you'll highmark any 8's, but these changes will help you keep up on the hill or trail in.

John
 
to keep up with m8's really isnt hard. 90% of all riding is the rider its self, but if you want a good setup. LEAVE THE CLUTCHING STOCK!!!!! so many people mess up here. also dont mess with the engine so much.Unless you go turbo dont mess with it. Atm I have the Slp can Diamond s hood,Timbersled rear and stuff that just takes off weight. Ive never had a problem going where m8s or m1000's do Unless the 1000 is setting a mark.

Timbersled Intake-8
Bdx Oil delete -8
Boss seat -8
Diamond s hood -20
Timberlsed sus-22
bdx Rear Wheel-2
bdx Engine bolt kit-4

475-72=403 pound m7.
 
Just making sure everything is working right (power valves, clutches, belt) will keep you right in with the 8s. If you want to start beating em its pretty easy to do. There's different routs to go, you can shed weight like bottom feeder did and see very good results. You can also do motor and drive stuff that will work too. If you like to tinker a bit you can try twins, very rewarding when you get em right.
 
Here is the deal i ride at 8 to 10K feet. I usually can't keep up with the M8 because of such deep powder or larger hill climb. So far i have a 06 M7 sno pro 162". I have a 2 wheel kit, frogzskins, side vents, handel bar risers, and am looking at buying a 2010 M seat!! Thanks for the help so far!! What is this X2??
 
M7 is a solid runner the way it is stock. RKT secondary is a nice improvement, speedwerx pipe is good too.

That being said I went with an RKT 8 BB and lightweight drivers on mine this year, can't wait to get it on the hill!!!!
 
What does a RKT bb 800 run? I guess the way these pump gas turbo kits have come on with many building them a guy should be able to get one farily resonable. If its close to a 1000 more for the turbo I think I would go that way.
 
I just added a Holz relocation bracket and Power Claw to my M7, and it made a HUGE difference. Much more hill climbing power. Not sure which made more difference, but can definitely feel the Holz bracket keeping the track from over tightening when the skid is deep in its travel.
 
i'm not an expert but thought the M7s had issues with the electrical system not having enough juice to run the fuel pump, etc... on the turbos applications. I don't NEED a turbo, it'd be cool just to have one but a BB is all I want/need. Could maybe been into a turbo for a little more but more of a PITA than a pull n go RKT bigbore on the stock pipe or speedwerx pipe.
 
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