I have an 2007 M1000. I am looking to put a Y pipe, pipe, can, and a Boondocker kit. How close will I get to 200 hp? What are some options to lighten the sled. If I ride in the powder all day a belt will last me a while. If I go 80 down the trail it blows a belt, if I go 40 the belt is good to go all day long. I don't like to do 40 down the trail, what can I do to stop blowing belts? I what to go fast and not have everyone wait for me on the trail. In the powder I can keep up just not on the trail as it will blow belts if I go fast for long periods of time. Thank You
M1000 Want More Power
- Thread starter Meat59
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product tester
Well-known member
none of the mods you mentioned will help your belt problem but some clutch and motor mount work will pm me if you want some info of what to do.
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Going West
Well-known member
if your doing over 80 mph on the trail your running out of gearing and that is why the belt is blowing. Also if your constently hitting 80 mph on the mountain trails you need you need to give your head a shake and smarten up befor you kill some one.
What kind of meat heads do you ride with that they feel the need to go 80 down the trail on a mountain sled? BYE-BYE hifax & belt. oh... and that moose that's around the corner...
You bought a mountain sled, they're pretty purpose built. You can change the gearing to 07 cf gearing if you want to trail race... oh yeah, then you'll blow belts in the powder instead.
As for power, there's a lot that can be done, head, clutching (which you could probably use some work on anyhow), porting, y pipe, intake, pipe...
IF you look at the 09 1000 setup in my sig, I feel that is a good first step to take, try the Y, intake first, then add as you go. Get egt's & check your baseline as it is stock & pay attention as you add mods.
That sled runs great above 10k, down at 9k it is coming close to where I don't feel comfortable without some race gas. Little things can change the machine more than you think sometimes, just be careful, take it slow & PAY ATTENTION to your readings.
(yeah, and taking it slower on the trail would make the rest of us feel safer as well!)
You bought a mountain sled, they're pretty purpose built. You can change the gearing to 07 cf gearing if you want to trail race... oh yeah, then you'll blow belts in the powder instead.
As for power, there's a lot that can be done, head, clutching (which you could probably use some work on anyhow), porting, y pipe, intake, pipe...
IF you look at the 09 1000 setup in my sig, I feel that is a good first step to take, try the Y, intake first, then add as you go. Get egt's & check your baseline as it is stock & pay attention as you add mods.
That sled runs great above 10k, down at 9k it is coming close to where I don't feel comfortable without some race gas. Little things can change the machine more than you think sometimes, just be careful, take it slow & PAY ATTENTION to your readings.
(yeah, and taking it slower on the trail would make the rest of us feel safer as well!)
My 07 with slp full set would hit 95 and keep climbing on the trail in a second and I never actual blew a belt also kicked as$ in the pow with stock clutching(4 post), the 09 hits 82 and blows the belt I don't know whats up and makes no sense, contact product tester. Also like said if you mod get egts and install them stock and get some readings, even after you do the swap you should still check plugs and piston wash just to see how the egts read.
I have had both an 07 and 09 m1000 each sled no matter what I did the clutches got hot,(went over the bars twice blowing a belt in 3 feet of fresh pow stops ya quick!!) about every 300 miles whammo time for a new belt so here is what I did,,, bought 2 m8 turbos one is a 07 one was an 09 both sleds clutches were cool as a cucumber after many many long pulls I do not understand why the m8 clutches did not get as hot.....
However I believe product tester is the person you need to contact as he had a lot of experience with clutching these beasts...
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bigbull
Well-known member
I have set up 9 different M1000's, 2 of them were mine. They all ran fantastic and had zero issues. They all were pushing 190HP and stayed tuned easily. They had wicked backshift clutching that was spot on for most of the conditions. But with wicked backshifting you will need to stabilize your motor, Product Tester has that fix. You want to keep an M1000 with the same pistons and porting, than I know how to set them up to work right. You can PM if you have a budget to do it now and I will help you out.
BB
BB
How about listing the clutching setup, I'm sure everyone wants to here it.
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bigbull
Well-known member
No, not everyone. For 180-190HP I run RKT helix (couple different angles depending on where the sled was being ridden at all the time) Cat Sno pro green or Red/white, the Red/white is more consistent over the whole seasons riding and backshift is a little smoother. Stock weights in the primary or add 2 grams. I prefer the stock weights and take the heat on the belt because of the performance. I will not tell you that this setup is the best for belt life, especially the snopro green, it would be a lie. I do know that your DD and belts will thank you if you change gearing slightly like 3 numbers each way 63/57 , 62/58 or similar and install a motor brace such as Product Tester supplies. This clutching is specific to the rest of my setup.
BB
BB
you mean 57/63, gear down
idsledhead went with slp stuff right down to the slp clutching everything was spot on. sled just flat works once he dialed in his boon docker. You might pm him if you have any questions. he did over 1000 miles last year and only one belt.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=2&productID=954
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=2&productID=954
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I also ran the slp clutch setup, the sled beet anything that was comparable. I'm picky though and don't think the clutching was spot on. I also shred 046 belt in no time. got over 350miles on all 060 belts, 450m on 060 since I went with all the slp stuff.
