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M1000 Speedwerx Problems Please Help

Hi everyone, I'm new to snowest, but was suggested this site for some help. I have a 2007 Arctic Cat M1000. It has the complete speedwerx kit; high compression head & pistons, dual pipes, re-flashed ecu (with powercommander 5 to richen mixture, egt too high), running on 110 octane fuel.

My question is this: The sled will start and run great out of the trailer, run it up and down the hills for hours, turning it off and starting it up again no problem. Then normally after a decent length ride, 30 minutes plus, I will shut the sled off b.s. for 10 minutes or better then go to start and it won't run.

First pull fires off the sled but it sounds like it's running on only one cylinder, and it bogs under throtle, then dies. From there on out it will not start. I tow it back to the trailer, put it up in the trailer and haul it home. 48 hours later i can go to start it and it fires right up and runs great. It's done this to me three times now, same symptoms each time.

I have checked compression 150-160 psi each cylinder. Fuel pressure is about 50 psi and consistant. I have no idea where this problem is coming from. I am trying to get the sled ready for a trip up to Canada but with these problems I don't trust it. Any suggestions, ideas, or shots in the dark would be incredibly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for everyones help.
 
Sounds like it might be a bad stator. I had a buddies RMK that ran like that. It would run until it heated up and then would die. We would bring it home and let it cool off and it would run until it heated up again. Changed the stator and problem gone.
 
if ya can have the dealer pull the codes on the ecu........but sounds like a stator or ignition coils.....

we just had a 07 m1000, throwing the code on the speedo for ign coils, sled would run 1/2 day then die....when restarted it would idle very weakly and die when given gas......like running on 1 cyl........replaced all 4 coils sled rips again...
 
Thanks

If there are no error codes on the speedometer would there be hidden codes that only the dealer could pull? I will try replacing the coils, and then the stator. Would a rebuilt stator fix the problem? If so any suggestions on what company to use. How about coils, should I buy after market or just go to the local factory dealer? Thanks for the help.
 
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Bill, it does sound like a stator issue. Test it for proper resistance the make sure that is the problem. If it is we have reman stators in stock that have a 1 year warranty. They seem to work better than new and are WAY cheaper. Let me know if I can help.


8.8-13.2 ohms on both charge coils
.08-.12 ohms on lighting coil
148-222 ohms on both timing sensors
15.2-22.8 ohms inection coil
1.52-2.28 ohms for fuel pump coil
 
one of the things that happens on turbo sleds is the temp sensor in the bottum of the block sends a reading to the computer and puts it in fault mod. I had this problem on my 07, half way through the day the sled would get warmed up real nice then do a run on it, shut it down and it would start on one cyl. then shut off. with your mods you may be getting your sled hotter then stock, just a guess, we install a 2 position switch from the auto parts store on one of the 2 wires coming off the sensor on the bottum of the block. Then when the problem happens flip the switch then pull it till it fires then set it back. It will take a couple pulls then run.
It may be one of the other items suggested above but if you have to run race you might be making some heat..
 
I appreciate all the suggestions and will start with the stator and coils, and the temp switch. Just curious though on how long people are seeing for the stator to cool off or the temp switch to stop throwing the over heat signal. I am having to wait 12-36 hours for the sled to start.
 
free try

are the plugs wet or dry when this happens? put the plug in the cap pull the rope, does it have spark when this happens? if plugs are wet and it has spark turn key off pull rope 6 or 8 times with full throttle. then try startiner again. worked once for mine. let us know what fixes it.
 
B, that switch for the sensor in the bottum of the crank case usually corrects itself within an hour, so if your on the 12-36 hr cycle I dont think thats it. Good luck!
 
12-36 hr reset......???.......i would suspect a wiring issue..
i have found water standing in my tps sensor, 3 days after thawing it out...
rolled my throttle 90* deg and 3 oz of water came pouring out..
but this only applies if you have no spark, no fuel, kill-condition.

weak idle, who know's are your plug wires rubbing on the motor?
 
Sounds just like mine last month. I checked everything and it all checked fine, It would run for a little bit then flood out the pto side bad and transfer fuel into the mag side through the y pipe until it would die. After two days of hair pulling I pulled off the fuel controller BINGO. Problem solved. Also check the ground on the right side of the tunnel in front of the tank it seems to be a issue on the M series. hope this helps lit us know what the fix is plzz.
 
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