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M1000 rear end help...

N

nikeholley

Well-known member
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Here's the deal...

'08 M1000...:face-icon-small-hap

Fox float air shock...:face-icon-small-hap

Fat guy...:face-icon-small-con

hmmmmmmm....

I think that I wanna change the rear arm so that I can add & also use Titanuim springs (like previous years)... this'll give me twice the spring, and still adjustability...

Whadya think..??..

all input welcome...

Thanks...

Nike
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shocking..

unless your over 350 then i wouldn't worry.run 145 to 150 psi and if u want u could send it out to get it valved for your weight.the 2011 m8 has a coilover instead that would be another option.the key is valveing for proper rebound and compression.
 
I couldn't run enough pressure to support my gear and my weight, and gas. So I did the geo mod and put a 220 lb spring on the center shock. Problem solved. (I'm 270 lbs)

I run ~130 depending on conditions.

I still want to re-valve, but I don't "need" to.
 
Spring on the shock..??..

I couldn't run enough pressure to support my gear and my weight, and gas. So I did the geo mod and put a 220 lb spring on the center shock. Problem solved. (I'm 270 lbs)

I run ~130 depending on conditions.

I still want to re-valve, but I don't "need" to.
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I'm not sure how to add a spring..!?!.. how did you do it..??..

I've heard of the 'geo mod', but not sure why or how...

what's involved... sounds like a reasonable answer..!!..

Thanks...

Nike
 
For the Geo Mod http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57103


For the center shock spring: Remove the shock from the skid, install
220lb spring (1604-125) which is a bit shorter and requires a spacer/adapter (0603-259). The stiffer spring will allow you to run less pre-load for a softer ride on the little stuff, and as the spring compresses it will provide more resistance to bottoming on the big stuff.

Since the new spring will apply more force on the rebound I made a slight increase in my rebound damping by swapping the 1"x.012" shim for a 1"x.015" shim. I don't run much high speed stutter bumps on my sled so I'm not too concerned about "stacking" caused by too aggressive rebound damping.

On the compression side I added a 1.25"x.010" changed the .8"x.008" to a .8"x.010". I left the valving on my 2010 M8 stock, so I could swap back and forth to see the real world differences in the field. The spring alone is definately worth it, geomod or not. The spring combined with a mild re-valve is Awesome.
 
Embarrased to say..!!..

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About 350#...

And I don't ride hard, half & half... on & off... no steep stuff... just like the footprint of the 162... but I really make it squat when I sit on it...

I really thought about replacing the parts in my skid so I can use springs AND the air shock... giving me double the weight support...

I know I'm a fata$$, and I'm goin' to the gym and have already lost 30Lbs...

I've got about 200 days till next sled season... :face-icon-small-win

Nike
 
Theres no reason to be embarrassed, it is what it is.

The geo mod will help for sure, and you will love the stiffer spring on the center shock. If your not riding hard, I think these changes will be perfect for you to start with. With all the gear I take with me, I'm not far off that weight.
 
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Theres no reason to be embarrassed, it is what it is.

The geo mod will help for sure, and you will love the stiffer spring on the center shock. If your not riding hard, I think these changes will be perfect for you to start with. With all the gear I take with me, I'm not far off that weight.

Thanks... you're right... :face-icon-small-win

I'll give it a try... I appreciate the help..!!..
 
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