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M1000 Meltdown Fuel or Air???

I have had similar issues. Pto side burnt up mag was fine. I did find a small crack on the bad side. I noticed oil spatter around the throttle so hpoe that was it.
It will be done tomorrow. I'm paranoid to run it now. O hope it wasent a bad injector
 
Cool...how is Redline on Power Valves? Are they pretty clean or do they require cleaning every so often?

cleaned my power valves after 900 miles.....and they looked good, only needed some carb cleaned and scotch pad, no shipping off carbon

well the truth is, last year was my first on an M, so my buddy who has had several Ms said the valves looked very good for 900 miles:beer;
 
When ever I see a PTO melt down the first things I look for is did a blown belt take out the seal or is the crank out of tolerence? These are both consideration that can lead to a PTO burn down.
A quick peak couldn't hurt.
 
Isnt 13.5 and 12.8 rich on the air fuel ratio gauge? The lower ration means there is less air thus being to rich? Or am I thinking the wrong way here?
 
Your thinking right but on a turbo 2-stroke you like to keep it in the 11.5 range when under boost.

FYI Hatcher oil does not cool it lubricates. When I was in collage and working part time on at a small engine shop we had. Stihl come in and give a couple different demonstration about mixing gas and the correct ratio. Too much oil actually holds the heat in. Granted not enough oil and you are running dry.

The way they made me think of it is when you take your hand and dunk it in gas a pull it out if feels cool do the same with oil and if feels warmer.
 
RE: Some posts above
When you premix, you also can not forget that injectors care about fluid volume, not whether its more or less oil, thus rendering you a leaner mix if you increase your oil/fuel ratio from say 44:1 to 30:1 and do not change your fuel input.
BB
 
Your thinking right but on a turbo 2-stroke you like to keep it in the 11.5 range when under boost.

FYI Hatcher oil does not cool it lubricates. When I was in collage and working part time on at a small engine shop we had. Stihl come in and give a couple different demonstration about mixing gas and the correct ratio. Too much oil actually holds the heat in. Granted not enough oil and you are running dry.

The way they made me think of it is when you take your hand and dunk it in gas a pull it out if feels cool do the same with oil and if feels warmer.

12.5 is ideal....and i need to correct my comment about more oil as thats far from what i was trying to say:beer;
 
We need oil,thats fore sure. But oil is only 20 in octain number and at 50:1 oilmixture you loose 1,8 at 110MON and 4,3 at 20:1...That means you get 105,7MON with 110MON fuel.

What really confuses many is when you tell them that more oil, can in fact, cause a lean run condition.

Sam
 
An a/f of 12.8 for a GP TM1000 is to high at 2000 metres and Chevron 94 40:1 with Amsoil? Safer to run race gas mix and lower a/f closer to 12 or lower. Boost set a 5 to 6. Any agreement??
 
An a/f of 12.8 for a GP TM1000 is to high at 2000 metres and Chevron 94 40:1 with Amsoil? Safer to run race gas mix and lower a/f closer to 12 or lower. Boost set a 5 to 6. Any agreement??

I looked at your pictures and to me it looks like you leaned out and melted the piston rite? if so then thats why you got deto. det can't cause a lean condition but a lean condition can cause det.
 
gauges read different, gas changes by the day, oils are all different, and elevation takes play. I melted a N/A just like that, factors: changed oil, lots of snow on the hood causing more under hood heat and possibly bad gas. You would be better off running non OX and non Ethanol 91 octane than 94 with either. I also bet it has ethanol in it. Still have to do the basics and tune by gauges and looking at plugs and wash, you can also usually hear det(depends on how loud your exhaust is) How long was the pull when it melted?

Some oils burn hotter than others, has to be factored in.

SLP also highly recommends Red Line above all others.
 
I looked at your pictures and to me it looks like you leaned out and melted the piston rite? if so then thats why you got deto. det can't cause a lean condition but a lean condition can cause det.



I got a couple of doo pistons (no turbo) that look exactly the same. I agree with MCIVER...lean.
 
didnt read the whole post but chevron 94 uses ethonal to get the octane rating. Stway away from that stuff, every sled i have seen run it burns down
 
An a/f of 12.8 for a GP TM1000 is to high at 2000 metres and Chevron 94 40:1 with Amsoil? Safer to run race gas mix and lower a/f closer to 12 or lower. Boost set a 5 to 6. Any agreement??
__________________

Agree but switch oils IMO as every burn down and bottom end failure I have had myself in last 4 years has been on Amsoil. Not saying it was totally oil's fault but the heat occurring when problems arose seem to wash that oil away and I haven't seemed to have those issues running Cat oil, Polaris oil or the Redline I mostly use now. I used to sell Amsoil and won't anymore as I won't sell what I wouldn't use myself.
Also agree with Sledhed88 about not running Chevron 94. Run 91-92 Octane with about a gallon of race or av and octane should be constant enough.
 
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