hey guys i blew up my diamond drive for the 3rd time gonna try some bdx gears , but i want to drop it down i think , just curious what everyone els is running! i got a 07 m1000 162 stock except a can and a y pipe!
m1000 gearing
- Thread starter td1000
- Start date
^ Thats what I run
I ordered 57/64 for mine. I found a post on here that said with 56/64 the sled could still go 90mph, I dont need to go that fast.
tried the lower gears, but didn't care for them....i think the 1000 needs to be loaded to take advantage of the big torque of the engine...i went back to stock gears with more aggressive clutching and it really woke the sled up...wouldn't think of going back, and i do a lot of pretty agressive boondocking...
thanks for your input much appriciated !
Blew up my first set of gears in 200 miles, I went down to the stock M8 gear ratio with BDX and haven't had an issue since, it helped mucho in the deep powder and saves belt life. Who needs a mountain sled that goes 100 mph, not me..
im into hill climbing and so dont i want high track speed to keep me on top of the snow ?
what about gearing down modded m1000's my sled is clainmed to be 220+ what do ya think leave it stock or gear it
if i can get 90mph down a lake , but if im hill climbing in the same conditions im only get 60 mph , but im running the same rpm both times! so that means my secondary cant shift up high anough under a load! so if i lower my gears ,i should beable to get high track speed under a load! i wont beable to get 90mph down a lake but ill get say around 70mph up a hill instead of 60! does this sound right?? m i understanding this right ???
M
M1000Mod162
Well-known member
I have a M1000 thats also making around 220hp and I think the 56/64 gears are perfect! Thats whats in it now. I had 58/62 first and i liked the 56/64 much better top speed about 90 wich is fast enough for a hillclimber/boondocker
what have you done for clutching tho!
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M1000Mod162
Well-known member
Its a 2007 m1000 with the three tower im running dalton weights set at 79.5 with a bmp torshinal secondary with a 40/36 helix and a red spring. havent rode it with bmp pipe yet though this cluthing was running speedwerx exhaust. It rips it has ran with every pg turbo ive rode with! oh ya riding at 8 to 11k ft little revy down at 8k but will still pull up at 11k on the good climbs
bmp h/c head
bmp cylinder porting
bmp y-pipe,and pipe/Mbrp can
costom cylinder porting
bdx valve delete
bdx oil delete
2.5 advance timing
sno-pro intake
bdx light drive with 56/64
vanamburg bumber
09 rear tunnel and heat exchanger
bmp h/c head
bmp cylinder porting
bmp y-pipe,and pipe/Mbrp can
costom cylinder porting
bdx valve delete
bdx oil delete
2.5 advance timing
sno-pro intake
bdx light drive with 56/64
vanamburg bumber
09 rear tunnel and heat exchanger
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M1000Mod162
Well-known member
I know this is off the post put what are your boondocker numbers with that setup? Any info would be awesome
Think of lower gearing like using a longer lever to pry out a rock. The lower gearing will allow the two cluthes to shift closer to the 1 to 1 ratio which is where they are most efficient. The lower gearing gives the engine more "leverage" against the torque feedback from the track. Gearing down is not going to give you 10mph, but it is more efficient for mountain riding. I prefer to gear for about 85mph, thats the sweet spot for my style.
Some guys like taller gearing claiming "if the motor can pull it....." but in loaded conditions the clutches are in a less efficient ratio which leads to more heat/belt-slip and ultimately less performance.
In your example you would be more likely to stay at 60 and not loose track speed as the load increases. Clutching should be addressed with gearing changes to take full benefit. I have gained (on avg.) 250 rpm at the driveshaft with lower gearing
S
SLEDIOT
Well-known member
X2 on the 56/64, Ijust changed mine to this and have had 2 rides and really like the results.
this maybe a dumb question but do you have to do major clutching when you lower your gears! im still running stock clutching for 6000ft ?
Major? Not usually. On the M1k I had already decided I liked my straight 38 before I geared down. I did have to change some weight in the primary to get the rpms in check. Buy the Dalton style adjustable weights. They are worth it. Then work from there.
thanks guys i appriciate it
