M1000 compression numbers?

[AaronBND]

Checked the compression on my '08 -M1000 and I am just wondering if I am ok. I have done searches on here and can't really find anything solid in numbers. I have 800 miles and I am at 3500' feet elevation and am at 118 and 124. Do these seem ok? Thanks!

Aaron

 

[m8magicandmystery]

is that with abit of oil squirted in..??..seems a wee bit low but ok if cylinders not squirted with oil..??...three good pulls with throttle wide open..cool motor or warm..??

 

[snowmobiler]

i dont know.if it runs its probabaly ok..first thing i would do with a new 1000 is take off y pipe and look inside.and if it looks pretty in there,run it.

 

[AaronBND]

I have looked at the pistons down through the powervalve slots and through the y pipe and they appear to look fine. The engine was cold and I did not squirt any oil at all. I did not know that was part of doing it. I just screwed the gauge in and pulled the rope 3-4 times till it quit climbing.

Aaron

 

[rigrat]

Good day. As long as they are within 10% of each other they should be good. I think my M7 was around 114 lbs when i last checked. I have found a lot of compression gauges read a lot different that each other.

 

[Funoutfitters.com]

I would try and find the same sled and do a compression check on that one with your gauge. Some gauges are different than others if you try it on another sled and the numbers are te same you should be good to go.

Hope this helps if there is anything else I can help you with let me know

Jeff
Gold Certified CatMaster Techician
funoutfitters.com
Free technical advice at 866-531-0123

 

[ryanru]

what #'s should someone see from a new topend?

 

[Going West]

why do you think something is wrong. If it runs fine looks good and the compression is close side to side your good to go.

If it looks like a duck sounds like a duck and walks like a duck its probalbly a duck.

 

[AaronBND]

I just bought it. If I had bought it new, I would know where I stand. Since I bought it used with 800 miles, piped with a BD box, just curious where I should be compression-wise.

Aaron

 

[kane13]

Checking the compression is the first thing i would do when buying a used sled, sounds a bit low but like others have said guages do make a difference as well as method of testing. I would warm it up good, shut the power off, pull a plug on the cylinder you are not testing (makes it way easier to pull over), ground it properly, then install tester into the one you are testing and ground that plug properly, then pull it over till it stops building (give it 4 or 5 good pulls), as long as you are within 10 lbs of each other you should be ok but even at 6 lbs difference i would keep an eye on it once and a while. JMT

 

[Zone28M7]

I don't have a m1000 but for comparison purposes: I had mine done about a month ago. My compression on a M7 with 1700 miles was 114 and 115, and after a milled stock head it was 150 on each.

 

[AaronBND]

I don't have a m1000 but for comparison purposes: I had mine done about a month ago. My compression on a M7 with 1700 miles was 114 and 115, and after a milled stock head it was 150 on each.

Brings up an interesting point..... Did you have your own head milled, and if so by who and how much?

Do you really need to "buy" a head from Speedwerks or RKT or one of the others or can you just have your own milled (decked) at a local machine shop a few thousandths to get a higher compression? I know the aftermarket ones supposedly "flow" better, but wouldn't you think the stock one flows "ok" and you could just shave it down a bit?

Aaron

P.S. Thanks for the comparison Zone28M7

 

[WyoBoy1000]

with new pistons mine was 126 ish after fist ride, it can very though on how much oil is in the cylinder, it may be more after you ride it, and pull plugs on both cylinders like said above. If not grounded properly it can ruin the coil.

I think its fine as long as there is no scarring in the cylinder or piston.

 

[0neoldfart]

Re: cylinder heads...

Brings up an interesting point..... Did you have your own head milled, and if so by who and how much?

Do you really need to "buy" a head from Speedwerks or RKT or one of the others or can you just have your own milled (decked) at a local machine shop a few thousandths to get a higher compression? I know the aftermarket ones supposedly "flow" better, but wouldn't you think the stock one flows "ok" and you could just shave it down a bit?

Aaron

P.S. Thanks for the comparison Zone28M7

Aaron, having the stock head milled will work, just be sure to recut the squish area, or you are asking for disaster. This requires some calculations on your part, and ensuring that the job is done correctly afterwards. For what it is worth, I've run Kelsey's heads on all of my sleds - they simply work better in terms of engine performance, cooling, and the quality is first rate, in my opinion. Just wish he was located up here so I didn't have to deal with a middleman or customs broker every time.

 

[powdercrav]

imo, that difference is just enough to make u keep an eye on it....maybe check it out during the summer months? . also , r u holding the throttle at wide open when ur pulling it over? Cause im pretty sure u need to do that fo a proper reading. my $.02