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M-7 wont hold rpms!!

C
Oct 14, 2008
30
0
6
39
Casper wy
have an 06 m-7 and it has had problems pulling rpm since i bought it used. When the sled first takes off it will pull to just over 7700 but it only holds that rpm for maybe three seconds then drops to 7000-7200. When i bought the sled it was bone stock and it had the same symptoms stock as it does now with a d&d single pipe, boonie box, and can. I am not familiar with the secondary setup but the previous owner did install all the bd aluminum belt deflection adjuster and spring adjuster. Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks in Advance.

ps running 68 grams in primary/ riding 7500 to about 10000ft
 

Chris6060

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Dec 8, 2009
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Fort St. John, British Columbia
I'm pretty sure thats where its supposed to be at... Haven't ridden mine since last year, and for whatever reason don't remember what RPMs it was running at, but the M8 and M1000 sit usually between 7000-7500 RPM at full throttle.
 

Rixster

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Oct 20, 2005
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Springville, UT
The M7 will spin faster then 7500. I am not sure how much more but I would guess around 8000-8200 with that pipe on it.
 

tundramonkey

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Nov 26, 2007
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MN
Stock rpm should be around 7950, with the pipe maybe around 8100??? Have you checked the power valves? Could be causing your problem.
 
S

Ski-Laxn

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
3,544
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Longmont, Co
I would suggest looking at your primary spring. Could be sacked out. The best setup for that sled is as follows
Primary yellow white, 68g weigts.
secondary orange with shift assist.
Or
secondary BMP torsional with there black
Primary 68g with slp black silver 120-300 will give you some more rpm on top
 

mmsports

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Nov 27, 2007
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hubsperformance.com
Clutching

I would do a once over on the whole sled.
Pull spring out of primary and inspect it then look at the weight and rollers make sure the rollers are smooth and that you do not have a weight of center hitting the side of clutch.
Check you secondary rollers make sure they are all in good condition

Pull you power valves make sure they are clean and check cable lengths

From their if it will not work it is tuning but I doubt it.
 
A

akjimmyb

Member
Sep 29, 2008
83
9
8
Alaska
My M7 did the same thing. Turned out to be something real simple. I had an Ultimax XS belt on it and out of the hole it would pull great, but then start losing RPMs the faster I went. A riding partner had a cat belt and I thru it in and problem gone. I needed less primary weight to run the XP belt. Just an idea to check your belt. Its simple. Mine only likes cat belts. If thats not it, I would check my weights. Did you say you checked to see if the power valves were opening?
 

cjfarm11

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Dec 2, 2007
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Laurel,mt
i would do what mmsports said to do. Check things over and make sure all your clutching and power valves are in check then expand from there
 
C
Oct 14, 2008
30
0
6
39
Casper wy
thanks

first of all thanks to everyone i never expected this much feedback so quickly. Looks like I need to check the powervalves for sure as well as the clutching. i have inspected the primary and everything thing seems a ok as far as the parts arent completely worn out. I will check into the secondary as soon as i get back home this weekend. I have noticed when I ride for maybe 15 minutes that the secondary gets hot to the touch.
 
F
Nov 29, 2007
38
1
8
Like akjimmy says, see what belt youre running. The xs belt will do EXACTLY what you mentioned. I started with 70 gram stock weights with the arctic cat belt, but with the xs belt, you need to run 63-65 grams. The xs belt really grips the sheaves, and with the right weights pulls great. Let us know what belt you find in there.
 
9
Dec 22, 2007
100
24
18
Stock RPM 7850. D&D Lite Pipe makes its power @ 8000-8100 RPM. First thing to get is a shift assist and Orange M8 Spring in the second. Drop the primary weight to 65's. That should get you in ball park. Check to see if your helix is stock, a straight 36 works best at elevation. Your R's will fall off like that if your helix is to steep.
 
9
My m7 did pretty much the same thing, i was told it was the servo motor, got a 12 volt battery and hooked it up to the motor and sure enough it wouldnt spin. Bought a new servo for $350:face-icon-small-fro and the problem was fixed, also if your PV's are gummed really bad the servo wont be able to open and close them, that could also cause it to cut out.
 
M

minet

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
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907rider

did it go hgh rpm then drop? or just not get rpm ?
 
K

keeton

Member
Nov 26, 2007
192
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Clarkston WA
mine did the exact same thing when my primary $hit out on me. put a new primary and new yellow/white and runs great now.
 
C
Oct 14, 2008
30
0
6
39
Casper wy
still struggling

well here is what i came up with this weekend. New rollers were installed in the secondary as well as a new spring. The spring was also replaced in the primary clutch. I removed the power valves and cleaned them as well. Sled still has mainly the same symptoms, i did notice that the headlights do not come on any more nor does the speedometer work, the tach does work however. wondering about the possibility of a failed voltage regulator or a bad servo for the powervalves. Any input guys?
 

tatorsalad

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Nov 26, 2007
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sounds like it could be a ground problem check the tail light wire and under the seat search m-7 tail light it has been on here a hundred times
 
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