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Lowering a TS

D

DieselTwitch

Well-known member
My girlfriend is getting into snowbiking. She riding my 500 with a 14 ST on it. any advice on lowering the bike so she is closer to the ground and can touch at least some on the trail.

I have a lowering kit for summer and was going to think about putting in the lower springs up front to help with the front end.

I'm thinking I may lower the preload on the rear two shocks and pull up the limit strap. She won't be riding it hard so I'm not so worried about her bottoming out.

Think it will cause any major riding issues with changes to the suspension?
 
On a 2014 you can add spacers to the top of the slide arm on the back of the suspension. This will lower the kit, then slide the fork tubes up in the clamps to lower the front of the bike.

Then adjust the limiter strap to get the ideal ski pressure.
 
On a 2014 you can add spacers to the top of the slide arm on the back of the suspension. This will lower the kit, then slide the fork tubes up in the clamps to lower the front of the bike.

Then adjust the limiter strap to get the ideal ski pressure.

I had not though about the rear spacer... are they a custom order thing or do you just move some around? Not that shes an advanced rider or anything but how do you think it will affect the handling
 
Kit's used to come with a bag of various sized spacers, but they're nothing special. Just measure the diameter and get something that will fit, I'd suggest starting with around 1/2" thick spacer on the top. I've even seen some people use farm-style clamps that can be added/removed without taking the suspension apart.

It won't really change the way that the suspension behaves, but travel will be reduced.

A couple of these in the right size would make changes really quick and easy to try.
 
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My girlfriend is getting into snowbiking. She riding my 500 with a 14 ST on it. any advice on lowering the bike so she is closer to the ground and can touch at least some on the trail.

I have a lowering kit for summer and was going to think about putting in the lower springs up front to help with the front end.

I'm thinking I may lower the preload on the rear two shocks and pull up the limit strap. She won't be riding it hard so I'm not so worried about her bottoming out.

Think it will cause any major riding issues with changes to the suspension?

Dieseltwitch,
How much has she ridden snow bike? I have taught both my son's how to ride before they were over 5 ft. The old flat tracks(14 and older)are way more stable when stopping on hard pack. Picking a place to stop is key. I also taught them a one leg step off. I think touching on a snowbike is of very little benefit. I would spend less money and more time teaching. Just my 2cents. If you and ever want to ride with my wife and I let me know. Black Mesa is one more storm away from being good to go. I live in Montrose.
 
lowering snow bike

I have spent years lowering my snow bikes. Everything you do will change how the bike performs. But being able to get your feet down in certain conditions has been worth it for me.
To make light weight easy to adjust shims buy large nylon washers (ACE Hardware) and cut about a 3/8 inch gap in the washer. The 3/8 inch gap is so you can install and remove the washers, without tools, as needed.The washers are usually about 1/8 inch thick so you can stack as many as you need for any given condition. I paint mine red so I can find them in the snow when I drop them. Remember these shims will change the coupling on the older kits. I remove the shims for hill climbing in packed snow as the shims tend to make the bike wheelie.
Tighten the limiter strap one hole to lower the front but that will create more ski pressure.
Raise the fork tubes per other post - less ski pressure.
On a couple of my bikes I have put extension links at the front of the rear sub frame. This rotates the seat back and down lowering it. Can't do this on all bikes. Also you can get a cheep aftermarket seat and have it shaved.
 
So if you were to raise forks in clamps, tighten limiter strap one hole, and shim coupling links appropriately does the machine stay balanced or does it compromise performance?
 
change in performance

Hopefully to answer your question. Everything you modify has an influence on performance and the influence varies by snow conditions and terrain. If you are not a hard core backcountry rider or attack the bumpy trails hard and you really need/want to get your feet on the ground then doing all the lowering mods and leaving them isn't much of a problem. I like to make changes during a ride to meet the conditions and terrain. I set up my limiter strap up with a wing nut and a bolt that I didn't need a wrench to remove/replace. This way I can let the strap out when on rough trails or take it up when needed. I add and replace the lower shims during a ride and sometime the upper shim(which needs a wrench). I never readjust the forks. Over all when you sung thing up you will get a rougher ride. When maxed out my bike(s) are about 3 inches lower which is really good for me in the tight tree-well type sections of a ride.
 
lowering snow bike

Hopefully this works as I haven't put pix on SW before.
The pix show all the item I mentioned in the prior comment.I made one error (that I know about) prior.
The red shims on the bottom don't lower the bike they increase the rate that coupling takes place.
The sliver shim on the top lowers the bike.
The coupler on the front of the subframe lower the seat. The pix are of my backup bike a 2010 KX450. On my new 2016 YZ450 you can't do that extension due to how the fuel tank etc are mounted My 2015 KTM450 had the same limitation. But I found a company that modifies the YZ subframe to make it sit lower.
Hope the pix come through.

/Users/mikesnick/Desktop/IMG_0298.jpg
/Users/mikesnick/Desktop/IMG_0302.jpg
/Users/mikesnick/Desktop/IMG_0304.jpg
/Users/mikesnick/Desktop/IMG_0301.jpg

Ok pix didn't show - I'll look for a way to get them loaded
 
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Trying to load pix



 
For what you are looking for just shorten the strut (1/4 to 1/2 inch Max) bring in the limiter one hole and extend the fork as far out as possible. That will essentially rotate the bike between the ski and track kit. you can roughly get 2" lower without much problems. The extra rake makes the bike very stable.
Shaving the seat will give you one more inch and that is about all you can get without messing things up and keep everything totally reversible. Not much to loose just do it If you don't like it go back to stock settings.
 
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