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Lowering a snowbike

B

barefooter

Well-known member
Has anyone ever lowered a bike? After riding with a couple of ladies this weekend - I think if you got it down by 4 inches it would make a world of difference.

I have a buddy who is vertically challenged and that would help him immensely too.....

I can see a couple of inches in the seat. Anything else?


We never said it was easy, just that it looked cool.
 
Those seats are pretty thin stock but I have gotten 3/4'" off my Husberg and wouldn't want to take anymore.

You can drop the triples down the fork legs a couple inches.
 
That 4 inches made a world of a difference , I was lucky there since the seats are so thick . I had hers shaved down and recovered . Almost patted myself on the back for that one . I know it's not the same as the bike seats but it might give someone an idea on a turn key or even a different model .

IMG_20121010_175613_154.jpg IMG_20121010_175633_408.jpg
 
Depending on the kit lowering is easy, I lowered my '03 ktm 3"-4". You need the strut rod with the threaded in heim joints, cut about 1/2" off both ends, redrill and tap threads and adjust to suit. Usually u can lower it a few inches before the airbox starts to hit the ts frame. Then you need to adjust the suspension limiter straps ect to get the track back where it should be
 
Lowering & movin forward

Has any one tried to cut the frame forks that mount to the bike rotate down which would move the frame up and forward then reweld, lowering and moving the skid forward. I am vertically challenged also but believe I need to figure some ways to get some weight off the ski. The pivot point is just to far back. Anybody ?
 
Has any one tried to cut the frame forks that mount to the bike rotate down which would move the frame up and forward then reweld, lowering and moving the skid forward. I am vertically challenged also but believe I need to figure some ways to get some weight off the ski. The pivot point is just to far back. Anybody ?

I've seen this exact thing done on a KTM 500 for a rider who was around 5'7" wanting a lower ride. The two tubes that protrude off the front of the TS frame capturing the swingarm bolt were cut off and re-welded being angled downward. This raised the kit upward into the fender of the bike and lowered the overall ride height....by the end of the season it was deemed a poor idea. Being closer the ground had the feet dragging in the snow, the footpegs would grab into snow on sidehills more severely, and did not stay on the snow or perform nearly like the identical "stock kit" bike did.

~T.J.
 
Changing pivot

Thanks TJ. Ok so lowering may not work. But how bout moving the pivot forward ( ie) just shorting the tube ext. or lenghting the swing arm. i still think theres to much forward weight. i read alot of people trying to get weight back. Not to get of topic
 
If you are very interested I know a shop that can custom make a third shock mount that can lower or raise the seat height by 2". My friends wife rides a yz450f with this setup, she is about 5'2" and really likes it.

Cobalt Cycles. Im going there tomorrow to check on a prototype kit
 
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I lowered a few bikes by making the strut rod adjustable.

To keep the track at a reasonable approach angle you need to make the forks as long as possible, lift the front and lower the back. That will in essence rotate the bike backward without much change to the skid angle. This also works much better in the whooped out trails and reduces Bottoming on the forks due to better Geometry. To keep everything working perfect you can not get much more than 2 inches lower before you start having issues with proper Geometry.
shaving the seat will get you an other 1.5 Max so all together you can sneak 3+ inches out of it and improve Handling.
I have only done that to the timber-sled setups.
 
Holy smokes

I have an ajustable strut , so I shortened it about 3\8in on both ends set it about 3\8 to 1\2 shorter and what a difference. the bike handles WAY
better and it sets considerably lower with a better attack angle like you people said. So heres a snafu , Why didnt TS put opposite threads on the ends so you can ajust the strut without taking it off.?. I think I will change that . Just need to thread a new rod with one end LH so it can be changed or tuned easily . Not sure how much it can be lowered without loosing to much travel or geometry , right now it is a tremendous improvement .
 
Thanks TJ. Ok so lowering may not work. But how bout moving the pivot forward ( ie) just shorting the tube ext. or lenghting the swing arm. i still think theres to much forward weight. i read alot of people trying to get weight back. Not to get of topic
mrsnow,
Getting the kit further forward on the bike to make it feel more playful/light in the front end is a common question and request. To provide some help in this, I believe that the SX kits sit 1.5" closer forward on the bike - but I could be wrong on that.
The geometry/attack angle is really crucial on the rear end of the kits and the TS guys put in a lot of hard work with testing to learn how not only the rear kit should mount to the bike, but also how the suspension should engage the snow. I've seen other kits with lesser attack angles and and modified components to achieve some of the things you desire, but they've all had give-and-takes along the way....especially excessive trenching on first launch from a dead stop. Strut rod and fork height changes have been a bit more "safe" to start with when dialing in a bike.

~T.J.
 
Thanks TJ your input well received New to the sport and probably just over thinkin the whole thing. I've shortened the strut and that was improvement . Now I might toy with the forks. Thanks again
 
Found this photo on instagram.
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Could be a good seat height solution , the drive train might even be set up a little better to suite a kit . A 500 twin two stroke has to be insane .

tpc_450_atv_rider_magazine-044-e1372711428348.jpg
 
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Hi, just wondering if you ever got the correct answer on lowering your snowbike ? there are a lot of incorrect ways to do it, only one way to do correct. If you want to call me I can either tell you or tell you who can do it correct. Larry 208-880-6068
 
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