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Lower QD pulley bolt snapped off

Y

yooper 8

Well-known member
I was just checking over my sled..........greasing,cleaning, checking bolt tightness in all areas, and when I opened my right side panel, I discovered that the bolt that holds on the lower QD pulley is broken off! The head is gone, and the bolt is broken off abour 1/4" inside the face of the shaft. Any clues on how to get it out, and why this happened. I have 600 hard miles on the sled, and I am still on the original belt. Last time I rode, we were jumping pretty hard, but there was no indication while riding that this had happened.
 
Overtorqued at assembly is one possiblily or a defective bolt.

Should be simple to remove with a left hand drill bit and "easy out" extractor.
NAPA or other auto parts stores carry the individual bits.

The lower bolt has locktite on it... so it will be a bit of work.
 
Exact same thing happend to me, 715mi. I thought maybe there was a strange noise when braking but no other sympotms. It could have been broke a while. The belt was visibly loose. The top bolt wasn't tight either. There is no play at the upper bearing ,as others have had, though.

Dealer is fixing under warranty but just the bolt. I think something else must be up.
 
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Thanks MH. I was thinking that an easy out might work. Don't really want to haul it to the dealer, plus I think I am better at this sort of thing, or at least more careful, than the service dept. at the dealer.
 
Heat it....drilling will heat it if you are quick with the EZ out, if not a propane torch will soften the loctite. Broken EZ outs suck...lol
 
Be careful because too much heat could soften the glue on the driveshaft under the collar.

Checked my upper and lower bolts and the upper took nearly two full turns to get 30lbs of torque!
 
I don`t know how they could possibly apply the proper torque to that bolt at the factory (it`s only 30 ftlbs). It comes with hardened locktite applied that just screws the torque reading (which is probably just a fancy torque socket anyway).

If your doing your own I would take that glue off and apply fresh stuff before torquing.
 
I don`t know how they could possibly apply the proper torque to that bolt at the factory (it`s only 30 ftlbs). It comes with hardened locktite applied that just screws the torque reading (which is probably just a fancy torque socket anyway).

If your doing your own I would take that glue off and apply fresh stuff before torquing.

What? You dont think they are calculting the 15ftlbs of run on torque into the equasion?
 
My suggestion is to not replace the bolt with a Polaris bolt. Buy your own Grade 8 bolts and add your own thread locker. My experience is that the Polaris bolts were soft and not up to spec for high strength bolts. Just add it to the list of annoying Pro RMK defects.
 
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