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Loose engine strap

beamslayer

Well-known member
Premium Member
Well I have been hearing this knocking noise so I started looking around and found my engine strap is loose on the mag side so far . Who has drilled holes in the bottom to reach these bolts ? Are there any updates on this problem or did poo decide to use loctite on the 12s and up.
 
FTX has been doing the holes in the bottom for ease of access for their Engine plate, The same idea works for the stock engine mounts. Attached is their 2 part YouTube install tutorial. Which will give you a good idea of what needs to happen. If you stay with standard sized electrical knock outs plugs are easier to find to refill them when not needed. Although if you run a skid plate (depends on which one) at least two of the four are covered anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIBGbTXtAo4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tC7KoTpR0KQ
 
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I'd drill the rivets, heat the plate with a propane torch and pop it off. Then one by one remove the bolts, clean, apply some lock tight and torque. If you have some adhesive around apply some new or just rivet the plate back on, heat the plate again, then let it cool, the old adhesive may re-bond.

Having had that plate off for another reason, I highly doubt it provides any structural integrity to the bulk head as it's pretty thin. IMO it's only there to cover a hole.
 
Thanks guys I pulled the plate off and found the front bolt broke off . It is out now and I am going to get two new bolts with lock washers and lock tite .
 
Thanks guys I pulled the plate off and found the front bolt broke off . It is out now and I am going to get two new bolts with lock washers and lock tite .



Has the same issue. There's plenty of thread depth to upsize the bolt length. Should be minimum twice the diameter in length of thread engagement for aluminum threads. Not sure why poo doesn't use even 5mm longer bolts.
 
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