I'm looking for a '13 or '14 Pro, and hearing that there are some motor issues. What do I need to look for/ look out for? Do they all have motor issues? Is there a fix for those issues?
Looking to buy a '13 or '14 Pro- What do I need to know?
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The 14's benefit from another year of development... the pistons are different, the process for gluing the a-arms better, the driveshafts had better QC, the Quickdrive got better top bolt, better QD belts....
If you have a choice... go with the 2014.
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If you have a choice... go with the 2014.
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As with all ProRide-mtn sleds...
Look for any wrinkling in the tunnel sides at the footwells, and any overstructure cracking.
All that said... In the ProRide chassis... the snowcheck 2015 chaindrive STD-RMK's with all of the goodies of the Pro-RMK but with the added benefit of chaindrive , aluminum rather than CF overstructure, and a front tunnel cooler made it a slam dunk IMO. For 15 only, you could get the std rmk snowcheck in 155 or 163"
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371929
Look for any wrinkling in the tunnel sides at the footwells, and any overstructure cracking.
All that said... In the ProRide chassis... the snowcheck 2015 chaindrive STD-RMK's with all of the goodies of the Pro-RMK but with the added benefit of chaindrive , aluminum rather than CF overstructure, and a front tunnel cooler made it a slam dunk IMO. For 15 only, you could get the std rmk snowcheck in 155 or 163"
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371929
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All PRO-RMK 800's
We had two 2011's. I think one had about 3500 on it when we traded it in on our 2014. The other one, I can't say what it had on it when we traded it in on our 2013.
Now our 2013 has 2400 miles, the 2014 has 700 miles. Basically zero problems with any of them. Except for those stupid rocks!
We had two 2011's. I think one had about 3500 on it when we traded it in on our 2014. The other one, I can't say what it had on it when we traded it in on our 2013.
Now our 2013 has 2400 miles, the 2014 has 700 miles. Basically zero problems with any of them. Except for those stupid rocks!
I think by the '13 and '14 models there is no need for a fix kit. By belt drive do you mean collar on the drive shaft?
I wouldn't run one more than 2000 miles without doing a top end.
The '13 quick drive belt was updated for '14. The new version of the drive belt is stronger and tolerates heat better. You want this one.
I never had a glued arm fail on either my '13 or '14 but my buddies '13 did have a glue failure on a pretty hard hit.
Check the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings for play. Remove the secondary clutch to get a good look. Behind the brake is a common one to loose too.
Other than that they are pretty much a draw. I had great luck with the '13 and a TPS issue with the '14 that took a few visits to resolve. Never missed any riding with either one and that is every weekend Dec-June.
I would agree with getting the newest you can. They get better every year IMO.
The '13 quick drive belt was updated for '14. The new version of the drive belt is stronger and tolerates heat better. You want this one.
I never had a glued arm fail on either my '13 or '14 but my buddies '13 did have a glue failure on a pretty hard hit.
Check the driveshaft and jackshaft bearings for play. Remove the secondary clutch to get a good look. Behind the brake is a common one to loose too.
Other than that they are pretty much a draw. I had great luck with the '13 and a TPS issue with the '14 that took a few visits to resolve. Never missed any riding with either one and that is every weekend Dec-June.
I would agree with getting the newest you can. They get better every year IMO.
