Recently purchased an 07' Apex Mountain "New" from dealer. Looking for some advise from someone with experience with the Apex Mountain. Any hints on suspension (front and rear) position for limited groomed mostly trail/powder riding? Also I am about 225 #'s, wondering if anyone thinks I should change the gearing to a 19T upper? Someone told me that would help gain flotation easier.
Looking For 07' APEX Mountain Optimal Setup
- Thread starter kauluwela
- Start date
Forgot to mention 07' Apex Mountain is STOCK. Dealer setup.
Get ahold of Dustin at Outlaw Motorsports. I have been quizing him on non-turbo setups and he seems to have a lot of info.
http://www.outlawmotorsportsinc.net/
I have also heard good things about Hartman.
http://www.hartmaninc.com/
http://www.outlawmotorsportsinc.net/
I have also heard good things about Hartman.
http://www.hartmaninc.com/
It's all a matter of coin
I have an Impulse turbo apex and a stocker that has been on a diet. If you go turbo, the power compensates for a lot of other stuff. If you stay NA, I would recommend the following:Lighweight seat
Lightweight under tunnel exhaust
Delete the rear tail light/rack, add an LED tailight
Rear suspension (I went with a Timbersled mainly because of a killer deal)
Front suspension (Works shocks from Hartman, undecided on spindles/a arms)
Replace all three steering bushings (I went with OFTRacing)
Replace headlight unit (I am doing a Mtn Mod hood w/ aftermarket lights)
Pivot riser (owner preferance)
Gen II skis
Better Boards
Powderclaw track
Scratchers
Clutching (Hartman set up and belt)
Skid plate
Lightweight battery (Hartman)
M
MEAT
Member
ive got an 07 Apex. Here is what I've done to it and it works very well now.
Challenger Extreme
cranked up shock preload on front shocks and removed sway bar.
drilled 4 .75" holes in the back of airbox for more airflow
8" powermadd pivot riser
removed rear rack and mounted tailight to back of the seat
Cut the crossover pipes out of the muffler
Pulled up the limiter straps to about halfway for shallower attack angle
removed bogie wheels and added slidekick scratchers near front of skid
removed all the foam under the hood and side panels
It took me awhile to make all these adjustments and see what works but it suprises alot of people now, and the best part is it is a gas and go sled. If I do anything else to it this year it will be Simmons Gen 2 skis. Hope this helps, once you get the feel for it you will see it is a very nimble sled.
Challenger Extreme
cranked up shock preload on front shocks and removed sway bar.
drilled 4 .75" holes in the back of airbox for more airflow
8" powermadd pivot riser
removed rear rack and mounted tailight to back of the seat
Cut the crossover pipes out of the muffler
Pulled up the limiter straps to about halfway for shallower attack angle
removed bogie wheels and added slidekick scratchers near front of skid
removed all the foam under the hood and side panels
It took me awhile to make all these adjustments and see what works but it suprises alot of people now, and the best part is it is a gas and go sled. If I do anything else to it this year it will be Simmons Gen 2 skis. Hope this helps, once you get the feel for it you will see it is a very nimble sled.
Yamaha's base settings are a good starting point, and a decent compromise between several aspects of the sleds performance.
You need to ride the sled, and get comfortable with it. After that, start making small adjustments once you decide what you like & dislike. You might want lower gearing for better acceleration, or you might not.
There's a few things that you MUST do to not blow up your sled or get yourself stranded:
-Read the manual. The first time I had warning lights go on when riding, I was pretty confused. Even if you know a lot about snomobiles, Yamaha's are different.
-Get ice scratchers. You can't ride a mountain sled on ice or hard pack snow, even for 2 miles, without scratchers without destroying your hyfax. Inevitably you will need to ride on hardpack and you will wish you had scratchers.
-Carry a 2nd belt. It will break on you at the worst possible time.
-Carry a quart or two of oil. You'll flip the sled over and it will puke oil all over the place. You need to be able to refill it so you don't blow up your motor.
-Get a shovel. You'll get stuck, you don't want to shovel with your hands
-Get something to get you unstuck. If you ride with at least 2 other big guys, you can dig and muscle the apex out of most things. If not, you'll need a powder jack, sno-bunje, and lots of creativity.
It's a heavy sled. If you're stuck on a hill, it might take 2 people just to roll it down the hill. If you're stuck in a treehole, you'll need to roll it over, dig a ramp and drive it out at full throttle. That will take 3 people.
-Mark
You need to ride the sled, and get comfortable with it. After that, start making small adjustments once you decide what you like & dislike. You might want lower gearing for better acceleration, or you might not.
There's a few things that you MUST do to not blow up your sled or get yourself stranded:
-Read the manual. The first time I had warning lights go on when riding, I was pretty confused. Even if you know a lot about snomobiles, Yamaha's are different.
-Get ice scratchers. You can't ride a mountain sled on ice or hard pack snow, even for 2 miles, without scratchers without destroying your hyfax. Inevitably you will need to ride on hardpack and you will wish you had scratchers.
-Carry a 2nd belt. It will break on you at the worst possible time.
-Carry a quart or two of oil. You'll flip the sled over and it will puke oil all over the place. You need to be able to refill it so you don't blow up your motor.
-Get a shovel. You'll get stuck, you don't want to shovel with your hands
-Get something to get you unstuck. If you ride with at least 2 other big guys, you can dig and muscle the apex out of most things. If not, you'll need a powder jack, sno-bunje, and lots of creativity.
It's a heavy sled. If you're stuck on a hill, it might take 2 people just to roll it down the hill. If you're stuck in a treehole, you'll need to roll it over, dig a ramp and drive it out at full throttle. That will take 3 people.
-Mark
Thanks for the info
Thank you for the replies. I have spent some time worrying about getting un-stuck with the size and weight of this beast. I have a climbing block and some old climbing rope, but that suggests having something to winch off of, not always there..... Good thoughts on the oil, I never thought of the rollover affect on oil cpacity and getting home on low.
Follow up question:
Do you think it is woth the extra 1K to get the reverse kit for the Apex?
Has anyone tried re-routing the coolant lines under the belly instead of around the back over the track?
Any suggestions on proven ice-scratchers for the Apex and is it better to mount them on the ski or on the track assembly?
I have not been on a sled in about 8 years, since I have been in the tropics for a while.
Thanks.
Thank you for the replies. I have spent some time worrying about getting un-stuck with the size and weight of this beast. I have a climbing block and some old climbing rope, but that suggests having something to winch off of, not always there..... Good thoughts on the oil, I never thought of the rollover affect on oil cpacity and getting home on low.
Follow up question:
Do you think it is woth the extra 1K to get the reverse kit for the Apex?
Has anyone tried re-routing the coolant lines under the belly instead of around the back over the track?
Any suggestions on proven ice-scratchers for the Apex and is it better to mount them on the ski or on the track assembly?
I have not been on a sled in about 8 years, since I have been in the tropics for a while.
Thanks.
pointers, tried and true
I own and ride an 07 non boosted Apex. These are the
I have Boss seat,
under tunnel exhaust,
removed rack,
Removed all foam under hood & side panels. (this seems stupid but foam is heavy when soaked with water)
2" pivot ROX riser
Gold finger lefty (must have on hard snow off camber side hills)
2 wheel rear axle (carves noticeably easier)
Remove all wheels except rear two run ice scratchers, ( the Hyfax last longer without the wheels, wears more evenly)
19tooth gear, Clutching from Hartman (this is a MUST have and reverse!)
Relocate battery to seat pocket
Oil filter relocation kit
KMOD Gen 1 rear skid or Timbersled
Powerclaw or Camo Extreme track
Simmons Gen2 ski's....(must have)
Fox Float shock revalve/ conversion to the newer Float 2 valving, (this makes them much friendlier on the nose heavy Apex, allowing them to be stiffer but still give you a soft ride and stop the body role of this sled)
Better boards or a Rat sled tunnel see link, convertionhttp://www.brandtmotorsports.com/products/item/complete-widened-running-boards-with-rear-kick-up-bolt-on/
>>>>
Hope this helps, once you've put a thousand miles on the sled in the powder you'll be comfortable enough with it to go any where with any of your buddies, non boosted I might add. If you have the above list or the main ones for function you'll even compete with other 2 smoke sleds assuming your an equivalent rider. cheers
I own and ride an 07 non boosted Apex. These are the
I have Boss seat,
under tunnel exhaust,
removed rack,
Removed all foam under hood & side panels. (this seems stupid but foam is heavy when soaked with water)
2" pivot ROX riser
Gold finger lefty (must have on hard snow off camber side hills)
2 wheel rear axle (carves noticeably easier)
Remove all wheels except rear two run ice scratchers, ( the Hyfax last longer without the wheels, wears more evenly)
19tooth gear, Clutching from Hartman (this is a MUST have and reverse!)
Relocate battery to seat pocket
Oil filter relocation kit
KMOD Gen 1 rear skid or Timbersled
Powerclaw or Camo Extreme track
Simmons Gen2 ski's....(must have)
Fox Float shock revalve/ conversion to the newer Float 2 valving, (this makes them much friendlier on the nose heavy Apex, allowing them to be stiffer but still give you a soft ride and stop the body role of this sled)
Better boards or a Rat sled tunnel see link, convertionhttp://www.brandtmotorsports.com/products/item/complete-widened-running-boards-with-rear-kick-up-bolt-on/
>>>>
Hope this helps, once you've put a thousand miles on the sled in the powder you'll be comfortable enough with it to go any where with any of your buddies, non boosted I might add. If you have the above list or the main ones for function you'll even compete with other 2 smoke sleds assuming your an equivalent rider. cheers
get used to the throttle, ease off the throttle or your gonna go over the front.
I really havnt had to bad of time with being stuck, just dig ramps and it walks out. I dont lift it... or if u have buddies just sno bungie it out..
I went with the 2.5 extreme and like that track much better than the mav.
I am trying on which gearing combo to go with this year, prolly will be 18/42 from ulmer racing, Rs5 yoshimura pipe, under tunnel, boss seat and airbox mod.
my main issue is hill climbs, I think the gearing will take-care of that... most of my riding is done 8-9000' and was only getting bout 9500rpm or so.
I really havnt had to bad of time with being stuck, just dig ramps and it walks out. I dont lift it... or if u have buddies just sno bungie it out..
I went with the 2.5 extreme and like that track much better than the mav.
I am trying on which gearing combo to go with this year, prolly will be 18/42 from ulmer racing, Rs5 yoshimura pipe, under tunnel, boss seat and airbox mod.
my main issue is hill climbs, I think the gearing will take-care of that... most of my riding is done 8-9000' and was only getting bout 9500rpm or so.
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i've also been riding a non boosted apex for a few years and got all the lightweight stuff done, this year i'm experimenting with clutching and gearing to make the most out of what i have, will also be playin with a power commander with clutching, exhaust and intake on a nytro to squeeze out as much power with out going turbo or supercharger and hopefully that works out as well.
Kaula,
I love having reverse, definitely worth it to me. I didn't pay $1000 for it though....
I would run these scratchers:
http://www.slidekicks.net/
They mount on the track. They are compatible with reverse, and much stronger than the wire scratchers.
If you don't have a skid plate, you need to get a skid plate. If you whack the bottom of the sled, you'll break the engine, it will cost lots of money.
I have the Yamaha skid plate, but I would get the one from Skinz if I were buying again:
http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproduct/floatplates.html
I don't think your climbing block will do any good, i've tried various pulleys. They take lots of setup work, and don't work because they only pull horizontally. When you get stuck, you usually need to lift the sled up rather than pulling it sideways, otherwise you'll be pulling an anchor through a pile of snow. Unless you want to climb a tree to anchor off, get a powderjack:
http://www.powderjack.com/snowmobile_jack_photos.htm
Also, a tip, when you get trenched in on a hill, dig out the lower side of the track and ski, and roll the sled over the handlebars down the hill. You'll get unstuck fast and the sled will be pointed downhill ready to ride. Just make sure it only rolls once and not over and over...
Once you figure out a few tricks getting unstuck is a lot easier. Also, when digging yourself out, clear out and pack down the area under the engine. If you have a packed down "ramp" you can usually drive out of most anything with the huge track.
Maybe you already know all this, but it would have saved me some time and headaches knowing this stuff.
Mark
I love having reverse, definitely worth it to me. I didn't pay $1000 for it though....
I would run these scratchers:
http://www.slidekicks.net/
They mount on the track. They are compatible with reverse, and much stronger than the wire scratchers.
If you don't have a skid plate, you need to get a skid plate. If you whack the bottom of the sled, you'll break the engine, it will cost lots of money.
I have the Yamaha skid plate, but I would get the one from Skinz if I were buying again:
http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproduct/floatplates.html
I don't think your climbing block will do any good, i've tried various pulleys. They take lots of setup work, and don't work because they only pull horizontally. When you get stuck, you usually need to lift the sled up rather than pulling it sideways, otherwise you'll be pulling an anchor through a pile of snow. Unless you want to climb a tree to anchor off, get a powderjack:
http://www.powderjack.com/snowmobile_jack_photos.htm
Also, a tip, when you get trenched in on a hill, dig out the lower side of the track and ski, and roll the sled over the handlebars down the hill. You'll get unstuck fast and the sled will be pointed downhill ready to ride. Just make sure it only rolls once and not over and over...
Once you figure out a few tricks getting unstuck is a lot easier. Also, when digging yourself out, clear out and pack down the area under the engine. If you have a packed down "ramp" you can usually drive out of most anything with the huge track.
Maybe you already know all this, but it would have saved me some time and headaches knowing this stuff.
Mark
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