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LOOK!!! Thanks to you guys FOUND A SLED

Everyone,

I wanted to thanks you guys for helping me decide what to get. I drove to Puyallup (there and back same day 12 hours) and bought the new baby!

2006 Summit x 151. SLP power package, (pipe,reeds,can,filters...) All factory installed with 1100 miles!!!!

I had one down side, I got it home and noticed 3 paddles on the left are gone and the wood stringers are showing! How long with this last?

Also, what is the best oil to run?

What should the gear oil look like? This had some metal on the magnet and is really thick grey and clear. Not like water but really thick.

If it needs to be changed, with what and how?

Here are the pics I promissed.

Cheyne

THE NEW BABY 002.jpg THE NEW BABY 003.jpg
 
I wanted to thanks you guys for helping me decide what to get. I drove to Puyallup (there and back same day 12 hours) and bought the new baby!

2006 Summit x 151. SLP power package, (pipe,reeds,can,filters...) All factory installed with 1100 miles!!!!

A) Congratulations....

I had one down side, I got it home and noticed 3 paddles on the left are gone and the wood stringers are showing! How long with this last?

A) I'd start looking for a replacement- It'll probably be fine, but why take the chance? There were lots of tracks there at Puyallup.

Also, what is the best oil to run?

A) Amsoil Interceptor (my opinion)

What should the gear oil look like? This had some metal on the magnet and is really thick grey and clear. Not like water but really thick.

If it needs to be changed, with what and how?

A) Some metal on the magnet is normal.....If the oil really looks that bad, drain it and pull the cover off to have a look. Otherwise, drain and replace with some fresh oil. There are many opinions here on Snowest about oils........My REVs have Amsoil chaincase lube in them. Don't forget to adjust the chain tension.

If this is your first REV, and you need some technical help, PM me and I'll try to lend a hand.....I have a service manual as well.
 
good for you!!!
looks like you picked up a awesome sled, the best year of the older rev and had the least issues.
in my opinion i would run ski doo full synthetic there isn't to many after market oils that i like to run, that engine was designed to run the full synthetic and i would stick with the skidoo stuff Ive heard allot of good and allot of bad things about amsoil and klotz and a few other, seems to be always good things about the stock stuff (except for price) i ride a Polaris and run the Polaris gold full synthetic i get a great deal on it through my dealer for around $30-32 a gallon ...not all that much more that the amsoil and such..........
about the track Ive ran a few sleds with 4-5 paddles missing , as long as there isn't a tear in the track id have no issues running it until you can get a good deal on a replacement,

metal on the magnet is normal but sounds like you have water in the oil if you not to worried about it buy any snowmobile synthetic chain case oil and drain the old stuff and refill. but if you have time and the know how id take the chain case cover off and look at you chain and sprockets make sure you dont have a link that is stiff and kinked and that you sprockets look good, it would also be a good idea to tension the chain.

just my .02
 
Yeah, What Happy said. :D
The chain case is a messy job but with a lot of prep before you break the bolts loose it's really not that bad.

Some folks lay the sled on it's side on a tire with a blanket on it but I just work a plastic bag under the case as much as possible and stuff a few rags in the bag to soak up the oil as it starts to drain once you loosen the bolts.

Wipe all the crud out and check your chain and sprockets but metal on the magnet is normal and you'll see it on a brand new sled with a couple hundred miles on it.
Adjust your chain per the manual.

I only change mine every other year or so.
I only use the ski doo chaincase oil but it's a little expensive.

I wouldn't sweat the track unless it's tearing and it's not wood. It's a fiberglass type kevlar composite. Very strong.

Look on E-Bay for a manual on CD. I think I paid .99 for mine and it's the real McCoy shop manual. Print only what you're working on!

Congrats on the new sled!
 
Did they do away with the plug on the bottom of the chain case to drain it on the revs? My ZX has one and it makes it a lot less messy to drain it then pull the cover.
 
Did they do away with the plug on the bottom of the chain case to drain it on the revs? My ZX has one and it makes it a lot less messy to drain it then pull the cover.

? Drain plug? I never knew there was a drain plug on my ZX.:mad:

I dunno, check I guess but I've never done it that way!:rolleyes:
It WOULD be a lot cleaner that way!
I'm looking at the manual right now.
Well I'll be....
there is a drain plug!!!
 
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nice sled dude
one of, if not THE, best year of REV's to date
looks like she has Simmons gen I skis on er two..lots of dudes run em and like em

check your carb boots, little expensive to replace (like $160 CDN) but 100% worth it
both of mine were shot

have fun with it! (sweet color scheme too, dont change it!)
 
Did they do away with the plug on the bottom of the chain case to drain it on the revs? My ZX has one and it makes it a lot less messy to drain it then pull the cover.

they still have drain plugs, much easier to pull the plug drain into a bottle and then open the chaincase cover ot check the chain and gears, that was suppossed to have been my project this weekend but I was lazy.
 
I still have to do both chaincases, clutches and chassis on mine and my wife's sled to be ready for the white stuff but I live in western Washington so I prolly have a couple months left to procrastinate!:rolleyes:
 
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