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Loading The Motor More On Your Pro RMK

Maybe I'm the only one, but I haven't had the best results running the "Carl's" clutching. Their response makes it boggier.


Could be that the snow conditions on the west side of the Cascades is a whole lot different than those found in Idaho. FWIW
 
I agree I like stock

geo
Hurricane Tim
Love your replies.:face-icon-small-hap
There are three in our group that have a 2011 800. No one has had engine problems. My dealer has a 2011 800 with 3300 miles and he has had no engine problems. I talked to two dealers here in Northern Minnesota and one in Mandan North Dakota. All three of them told me that they have not had one 800 come back. Why does there seem to be a problem with the 800 in the mountains but not in the flat lands? :face-icon-small-con
Granted the snow conditions were bad here last year but I believe that there are a lot more 800s in the flat lands than there are in the mountains.
And yes the older I get the more I like it just the way it is. KISS. Keep It Simple Stupid.
I rarely look at the tach or speedo anymore. I go by sound and performance. If I am concerned with RPM I can check the history. I always watch my temp gauge. Always!:face-icon-small-win
 
Could be that the snow conditions on the west side of the Cascades is a whole lot different than those found in Idaho. FWIW

That is true. I used to live in McCall. The Cascade snow is tremendously heavier. I was just throwing the point out that Carl's knows what it takes to make them run in "their" conditions.
 
If I get beat by 2 or 4 HP (1 or 2 ft lbs)
to the track,,, oh well. I'm not as good as I thought.

But,,,,, if you feel 8300 is fast,,,, let your pistons rattle away. Doesn't hurt my feelings.

Load, can help engine life because rpm is more constant. An unloaded CVT goes through huge rpm swings you don't see on the tach.

Here's a little trick. Don't watch your tach. Tune with your speedo.

Yeah I was all over F-bombs magic 7950rpm, but then I took some weight of on the hill one day. Same day, same line, just a few feet to the side. Rpm climbed to 82-8300 on load (not spike) and trackspeed crept up 1-2 mph.

I would still say overall perf is best around 8K since it has both a limiter at 8500 and a mathematical function that doesn't like to fast rpm rise.

As for stock vs. modded, my sled is setup on a budget by Fastrax with PAR head, MDS clutching and 60/40-.46 helix + 140/240 spring.
In some not so scientific head-to-head tests it outperformed another pro and held its own against some pretty hot sleds (short pull tho).
My buddy with a -11 Pro 163 told he'd gone this way if he had known...

Best advise: get proof! Like mentioned above, when someone hands you your a$$, get whatever he/she has. Or get a tuning partner with the same sled and do it right; change one thing and test, then keep the good stuff.
 
The older I get, the less I like to be messing with my sled. I put on a can to save a couple pounds, and ride it. The guys who keep screwing with pipes, heads, clutching, etc. always seem to have the hood open, while I'm riding. I don't care if another modded sled gets me by a few feet on the hill, because those few feet probably cost the other guy hundreds of dollars.
It also seems to be the modded sleds that I have towed back to the truck on a rope.

a few hundred? try many thousands! :face-icon-small-ton
 
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