Loading The Motor More On Your Pro RMK

[Spudman49]

A friend of mine talked to Jack Struthers the other day and asked him about what issues Polaris has had with the 800 motors. He told my friend, that this particular motor needs to be loaded up with better clutching so that it performs better and causes less fatigue on the skirts. He also said that he has very little problems with the skirt issues and you know Jack is not bull----- anyone on this subject as he sells a ton of Pros. Has anyone else on this forum heard about this particular fix as to loading the motor with better clutching and if you have, what particular clutching solutions, (weights, helix's) have you used for 6000' to 8000' of mountain riding. Thanks for any info The Spudman

 

[Leaf27]

Indy Dan?

 

[Rick!]

Take a gander at Carl's Cycle website and you'll find Belly Buster weights and other goodies. SLP uses their MTX weights. MDS is another similar style weight. Heavy heel weights make for earlier and heavier loading than 10 series weights. Add some springs and diddle with the helix and you load the engine harder when and where you need it.

 

[800xtreme]

Just buy Jacks's clutch kit...it's really that simple. You can spend A LOT of time trying to fiddle faddle with other stuff and end up scratching your head at the end. It sounds like you trust that Jack know his stuff...so trust him with your pocket book and you wont be dissapointed.

 

[Timbre]

What he said ^^^
Carl's clutching works very well!!

 

[rmk2112]

Another vote for Carls clutching.
Best money I ever spent on a mod.

 

[edavis0202]

Another vote for Carls clutching.
Best money I ever spent on a mod.

MDS clutching is what a lot of guys are liking, Brad with PAR loves this setup for loading the clutch.

The weights are fully adjustable so no buying multi weights for different elevations.

 

[steepndeep800]

I have had many carls setups and they are always spot on. Why waste your time reinventing the wheel when they figure it all out for you, clutching, motor work, shocks, its all tested and always works, just buy it!

 

[raggededge]

Has anyone tried the original heel clicker wieghts in the pro I had them in a 800 edge back in the day and loved them it made that sled so much better and I tried everything on the edge just getting back to two strokes can't wieght

 

[volcano buster]

Maybe I'm the only one, but I haven't had the best results running the "Carl's" clutching. Their response makes it boggier.

 

[ak powderhound]

heel clickers

I ride from 2000 to 6500 feet here in alaska. rode all last season with heel clickers on my 12. only turned out on my whim.(pussied out). made a noticeable differance.

 

[scrfce]

new to polaris, got a 13 checked and super pumped buuuut comin from bein a M cat faithful im completely new to what will make my pro the best it can be and which manus make the best mods for it,,,,u guys keep sayin carls clutch was the best mod so on,,,,,how come? if anyone can describe the reasons y thatd be awesome and maybe make my decisions easier when fall modding comes around......thx

 

[Oregonsledder]

Ride it first. Most guys don't see the need to make any changes.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

Scrfce,
I was thinking along the same lines as you last year when I bought my 2012. I ride with a gaggle of other Pro riders and most everyone has slightly different set-ups. Having already spent a whole bunch of money on the new '12 I didn't want to spend anymore unless I saw real results. It turns out that I didn't have to spend any extra because Polaris pretty much nailed the stock clutching. I found the sweet spot is 8,000 to 8,050 RPM's, the stock 10-60's will put you right there at 9,000 to 10,000'. If your backshift is a liitle weak at 10,000' to 11,000', just drop in the black/purple secondary spring. I rode with a few modded Pro's, they had can's, they had can's, pipes, heads, fuel controller's. I didn't find one all season long (about 50 rides) that ran any better than a 8,000 RPM stocker with Polaris book clutching. Most of them were tuned for 8,100 to 8,200 and actually performed worse. I ride with a friend who has a Diamond S mesh hood and stock motor and clutching, (he weighs about 180) we didn't find another 2-stroke 800 all season that could touch him. If I were you I wouldn't change a thing until somebody hands you a face full of snow on the mountain. Make sure you are running the 115 belt, the 122 will over rev and require a slightly different set-up.

 

[Oregonsledder]

Scrfce,
I was thinking along the same lines as you last year when I bought my 2012. I ride with a gaggle of other Pro riders and most everyone has slightly different set-ups. Haven't already spent a whole bunch of money on the new '12 I didn't want to spend anymore unless I saw real results. It turns out that I didn't have to spend any extra because Polaris pretty much nailed the stock clutching. I found the sweet spot is 8,000 to 8,050 RPM's, the stock 10-60's will put you right there at 9,000 to 10,000'. If your backshift is a liitle weak at 10,000' to 11,000', just drop in the black/purple secondary spring. I rode with a few modded Pro's, they had can's, they had can's, pipes, heads, fuel controller's. I didn't find one all season long (about 50 rides) that ran any better than a 8,000 RPM stocker with Polaris book clutching. Most of them were tuned for 8,100 to 8,200 and actually performed worse. I ride with a friend who has a Diamond S mesh hood and stock motor and clutching, (he weighs about 180) we didn't find another 2-stroke 800 all season that could touch him. If I were you I wouldn't change a thing until somebody hands you a face full of snow on the mountain. Make sure you are running the 115 belt, the 122 will over rev and require a slightly different set-up.

Kinda like what I said... LOL

 

[tdbaugha]

Scrfce,
I was thinking along the same lines as you last year when I bought my 2012. I ride with a gaggle of other Pro riders and most everyone has slightly different set-ups. Haven't already spent a whole bunch of money on the new '12 I didn't want to spend anymore unless I saw real results. It turns out that I didn't have to spend any extra because Polaris pretty much nailed the stock clutching. I found the sweet spot is 8,000 to 8,050 RPM's, the stock 10-60's will put you right there at 9,000 to 10,000'. If your backshift is a liitle weak at 10,000' to 11,000', just drop in the black/purple secondary spring. I rode with a few modded Pro's, they had can's, they had can's, pipes, heads, fuel controller's. I didn't find one all season long (about 50 rides) that ran any better than a 8,000 RPM stocker with Polaris book clutching. Most of them were tuned for 8,100 to 8,200 and actually performed worse. I ride with a friend who has a Diamond S mesh hood and stock motor and clutching, (he weighs about 180) we didn't find another 2-stroke 800 all season that could touch him. If I were you I wouldn't change a thing until somebody hands you a face full of snow on the mountain. Make sure you are running the 115 belt, the 122 will over rev and require a slightly different set-up.

No offense to your buddies but lots of guys will blindly throw money at their sled without knowing how to set up the clutching and suspension. A dialed in stocker can always run with a piped sled that isn't running well. If you know what you're doing and willing to spend the time on set up, then there are always improvements to be made, especially on clutching.

 

[AdrenalineAddict]

Some of the sledders and sleds I rode with came directly from some of the high volume big R&D dealers, they should have been set-up nearly perfect. The biggest mistake I was seeing was everybody was relying on their butt dyno and overreving them a couple hundred R's. I made the same mistake, I had been whooping up on Cats and E-tech's most the season pulling 8,000 R's. I lightened up a gram for a few rides and was all of a sudden getting kicked by the same e-techs I was running over a couple weeks before. It could very well be that all the modded sledders I rode with were also overrevving a bit. It appears the stock set-up is very difficult to improve, but I'm sure there are some supertuners out there who can.

 

[Pro-8250]

I prefer stock.

Ride it first. Most guys don't see the need to make any changes.

X2
Except for changing weights and springs as recommended by my owners manual for different elevations I am very happy with mine the way it came.
As far as clutching causing cylinder skirt failure I wouldn't know.
There's been a lot of discussion here on Snowest about skirt failure and how to fix it but I don't remember anyone bringing up clutching as a fix.
I am not suggesting it isn't true, I just don't remember it being brought up. $.02

 

[Hurricane Tim]

The older I get, the less I like to be messing with my sled. I put on a can to save a couple pounds, and ride it. The guys who keep screwing with pipes, heads, clutching, etc. always seem to have the hood open, while I'm riding. I don't care if another modded sled gets me by a few feet on the hill, because those few feet probably cost the other guy hundreds of dollars.
It also seems to be the modded sleds that I have towed back to the truck on a rope.

 

[geo]

If I get beat by 2 or 4 HP (1 or 2 ft lbs)
to the track,,, oh well. I'm not as good as I thought.

But,,,,, if you feel 8300 is fast,,,, let your pistons rattle away. Doesn't hurt my feelings.

Load, can help engine life because rpm is more constant. An unloaded CVT goes through huge rpm swings you don't see on the tach.

Here's a little trick. Don't watch your tach. Tune with your speedo.