Im Building A Rev And Im Gonna Do All The Obvious Things To It. Just Curious If There Is Anyone Out There That Has Any Tricks Up Their Sleeve???? If You Have Any Pics Of Your Mods, Feel Free To Post Them Too. Thanks Steve
Light Weight Tricks????
- Thread starter steve8
- Start date
S
Summitstef
Member
What year of Rev Chassis do you have?
If it is an '04 get the snow eliminators, and a set of tunnel stiffners from Marcuso. Both work extremely trick together and add strength to your tunnel. I'd also pitch the rear light and run a small LED light in the snow flap. Also add a 10" riser block if you do a ton of standing while you ride. The 10" rise kicks the snot out of the factory block. Jest my 2cents. Good luck
If it is an '04 get the snow eliminators, and a set of tunnel stiffners from Marcuso. Both work extremely trick together and add strength to your tunnel. I'd also pitch the rear light and run a small LED light in the snow flap. Also add a 10" riser block if you do a ton of standing while you ride. The 10" rise kicks the snot out of the factory block. Jest my 2cents. Good luck
I Guess I Should Have Stated That Im Starting With A Tunnel And Bulkhead. Building It From The Ground Up. Dont Have Many Parts And The Parts That Im Planning On Buying Are Going To Be Light Weight.
L
LRD
Well-known member
Best leightweight trick I can reccommend is ditch the Rev chassis and just START with the XP, its already a bunch lighter. I built a big bore rev 629 fan down to 395 lbs dry and it took one heck of a lot of work to do. Three Floats, Fabcraft moly a-arms, TI front arm on skid etc, etc.. Took a 400 lb 08 XP TNT and long tracked with 16 X 137 X 1.75 and its about 375 lbs dry and only 450 lbs wet. Has same flotation on track as a wet 523 lb 154X but better flotation on the skis than the 154X as the front end is about 40 to 50 lbs lighter than the 800R's. It was so easy to taske the first 30 lbs off the TNT I couldn't believe it, Straightline Pipe/Can 11 lbs., Injection oil Tank/Pump
10 lbs, Sway Bar/ & plastic/foam removal 8 lbs, Primary clutch swap 4 lbs., thats 33 lbs without breaking a sweat!!!
On the 800R's its a no brainer if you Really Want to be Light, pipe/can 10 lbs, oil injection delete, 10 lbs, sway bar, plastic/foam delete 8 lbs etc. Thats 28 lbs!!! All off the heavy front end.
My guess from past experience you will spend a lot of money Just to get a Rev chassis to a stock XP weight
Good Luck
10 lbs, Sway Bar/ & plastic/foam removal 8 lbs, Primary clutch swap 4 lbs., thats 33 lbs without breaking a sweat!!!
On the 800R's its a no brainer if you Really Want to be Light, pipe/can 10 lbs, oil injection delete, 10 lbs, sway bar, plastic/foam delete 8 lbs etc. Thats 28 lbs!!! All off the heavy front end.
My guess from past experience you will spend a lot of money Just to get a Rev chassis to a stock XP weight
Good Luck
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THIS IS WHAT IM STARTING WITH. GONNA HAVE A LIGHTWEIGHT SKID, BOSS SEAT, OIL DELETE, YOU KNOW ALL THAT STUFF. JUST WODING IF ANYONE HAS HAD ANY LUCK WITH GUN DRILLING DRIVE SHAFTS??? WHAT TO DO TO MAKE JACK SHAFT LIGHTER??? ANY OTHER LITTLE TRICKS. THANKS FOR THE IMPUT THOUGH. IM GONNA KEEP THE REV CHASSIS. HAVE A RODE AN XP AND WASNT TOO FOND OF IT. PLUS GOT THIS CHASSIS FOR A GOOD DEAL. KEEP THE POST COMMING.
You can drill the shafts, not much weight to be lost there though IMO. Better to spend the cash on parts that will reduce the rotating mass or sprung weight. If it was me 
I'd take the cash and buy some carbon fiber a-arms, or rails, Ti springs, etc. If you are going to go crazy light, you will have to sacrifice strength somewhere or spend lots of $$$$. Since I don't know what else you are planning on doing, it is hard to make suggestions. for the jackshaft, you can have one machined out of Ti or Magnesium if you want it light and strong, won't be cheap though. Make a different steering post, lose the heavyweight steering parts, lots of other stuff, just not sure what else you are already doing.
I'd take the cash and buy some carbon fiber a-arms, or rails, Ti springs, etc. If you are going to go crazy light, you will have to sacrifice strength somewhere or spend lots of $$$$. Since I don't know what else you are planning on doing, it is hard to make suggestions. for the jackshaft, you can have one machined out of Ti or Magnesium if you want it light and strong, won't be cheap though. Make a different steering post, lose the heavyweight steering parts, lots of other stuff, just not sure what else you are already doing.Alright.
Holz All Around With Fox Floats
Light Weight Panels
800r With Turbo
162x15x2.5 3 Pitch
Boss Seat
Simmons Skis
Im More Trying To Loose Weight With Rolling Stuff. I Have Heard Guys Putting Aluminum Spacers Behind Their Gears, Milling Down The Brake Rotor, Drilling Out The Stock Bolts, Cutting All Excess Length Off. I Know There Gets To Be A Point Where Its An Extreme. Maybe I Should Just Take A Big Sh*t Before I Go Riding All The Time. I Donno Im Just Trowing The Question Out There. Thanks
Holz All Around With Fox Floats
Light Weight Panels
800r With Turbo
162x15x2.5 3 Pitch
Boss Seat
Simmons Skis
Im More Trying To Loose Weight With Rolling Stuff. I Have Heard Guys Putting Aluminum Spacers Behind Their Gears, Milling Down The Brake Rotor, Drilling Out The Stock Bolts, Cutting All Excess Length Off. I Know There Gets To Be A Point Where Its An Extreme. Maybe I Should Just Take A Big Sh*t Before I Go Riding All The Time. I Donno Im Just Trowing The Question Out There. Thanks
The Holz susp all around with Floats and a Boss seat will be about the only losses worth doing. IMO if you really plan on going with boost you should keep the stock (strong) shafts, you will need them. Lightweight is nice but not if you have to worry about something breaking.
How about selling that chassis and starting with the XP, it will be lighter stock than any Rev mod.
And a P-85 clutch dumps 6 more lbs.
How about selling that chassis and starting with the XP, it will be lighter stock than any Rev mod.
And a P-85 clutch dumps 6 more lbs.
He likes the rev style over the rev-xp.
Take all the bolts out and go titanium. Could be a little extreme
Take all the bolts out and go titanium. Could be a little extreme
F That, Its Like 3 Grand To Do Just Bolts And I Might Save 5lbs. Thought About It But Then Boost Is Prob A Better Mod. Im Gonna Stick With The Rev Chassis Too.
C
carbondaddy
Well-known member
Some of the stuff I've had good luck with:
Timbersled suspension front and rear. Fox Floats for front suspension, but buy them from someone who'll revalve them for you as they are way too stiff. Get the rails from timbersled also. 8" cabon wheels from Nextech. Delete all boogy wheels. The challenger extreme track is heavy, you may want to consider the skidoo powdermax track. Headlight delete, or use a piaa type. Airbox delete, pods with socks work well if you have good venting. The X pkg brake rotor. Slydog powderhounds. Swaybar delete. Maybe someone makes a lighter steering post. Ceramic coated single pipe and "The Thing" can. Aluminum bars and risers. Go ahead and have your shafts drilled and use extroverts and use the other stuff you have on your list.
Craig
Timbersled suspension front and rear. Fox Floats for front suspension, but buy them from someone who'll revalve them for you as they are way too stiff. Get the rails from timbersled also. 8" cabon wheels from Nextech. Delete all boogy wheels. The challenger extreme track is heavy, you may want to consider the skidoo powdermax track. Headlight delete, or use a piaa type. Airbox delete, pods with socks work well if you have good venting. The X pkg brake rotor. Slydog powderhounds. Swaybar delete. Maybe someone makes a lighter steering post. Ceramic coated single pipe and "The Thing" can. Aluminum bars and risers. Go ahead and have your shafts drilled and use extroverts and use the other stuff you have on your list.
Craig
A
ak
Well-known member
I built a lightweight rev with a 440 motor and 136 and it weighed 385 pounds.
Some ideas would to remove the head light and the brackets that hold the headlight in place. The two supports that run beside the fuel tank can be drilled with 3/4 inch holes length wise. Aluminum bottom gear .Slp brake rotor.
Titanium drive shaft and jack shaft are $700.00 A piece. Eliminate all usless wiring. If you ride in good snow you,se the 440 rear cooler. taper the tunnel, remove some of the steel brackets in the tunnel. Get rid of the guages and pod and use a cover from dmax/ radchad. Replace the bushings in the A arms with aluminum ones. The rev I built had a ezryde rear suspension lexan panels and hood aswell as a alumium front end with floats. And if you dont travel very far run the 440 5 gal tank. you can buy a 04 440 seat with out the rear plastic for less money than a boss seat and it weighs the same.
Some ideas would to remove the head light and the brackets that hold the headlight in place. The two supports that run beside the fuel tank can be drilled with 3/4 inch holes length wise. Aluminum bottom gear .Slp brake rotor.
Titanium drive shaft and jack shaft are $700.00 A piece. Eliminate all usless wiring. If you ride in good snow you,se the 440 rear cooler. taper the tunnel, remove some of the steel brackets in the tunnel. Get rid of the guages and pod and use a cover from dmax/ radchad. Replace the bushings in the A arms with aluminum ones. The rev I built had a ezryde rear suspension lexan panels and hood aswell as a alumium front end with floats. And if you dont travel very far run the 440 5 gal tank. you can buy a 04 440 seat with out the rear plastic for less money than a boss seat and it weighs the same.
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mine.. not light yet, but decent for ideas
heres mine.. waiting to order my timbersled and ice age rails (black on black) also painting the tunnel black friday, timbersled intake and DJ clutch kits coming next week
lexan panels, hps can, X seat.. for now
heres mine.. waiting to order my timbersled and ice age rails (black on black) also painting the tunnel black friday, timbersled intake and DJ clutch kits coming next week
lexan panels, hps can, X seat.. for now
