ktm/husky 300. whos spent time making more power?

[schwany31]

Anyone have a good measurement from the pipe on egt prob location? Was told roughly 6" from the piston skirt.

Also I ended up going with a 40mm lectron with a recommendation from lectron 5-2 rod.

 

[portgrinder]

6in is close enough.

FYI on the ign pickup mod. If you have increased compression you are gonna want to run c12. With c111 I can hear some shenanigans. Putting back to stock till we crack a new barrel

 

[schwany31]

6in is close enough.

FYI on the ign pickup mod. If you have increased compression you are gonna want to run c12. With c111 I can hear some shenanigans. Putting back to stock till we crack a new barrel

I don't plan to mess with the timing, this engine will get broken in on the stand then straight to Wyoming from Wisconsin so I kind of want to play it semi safe. I will be running 50/50 vp110

What are you guys setting your PV at?

 

[chumbilly1]

I don't plan to mess with the timing, this engine will get broken in on the stand then straight to Wyoming from Wisconsin so I kind of want to play it semi safe. I will be running 50/50 vp110

What are you guys setting your PV at?

Im running a sx 2k1 ignition so my settings are most likely different. I tried retarding it based on my tuners recommendation but It lost on bottom. Pulls great up High. Im gonna play with advance tomorrow. Im running lots of base gaskets to bet BDC to match transfers, and my stiffest head. Not sure what comp ratio is but I will do compression test soon. 50/50 110/92 non ethanol.

 

[chumbilly1]

Is it true that retarded ignition timing can cause a hot running motor? Goes against my perceived ideas, but??

 

[eric82930]

Retartding makes the exhaust hotter but not the engine. The hotter pipe shifts the torque peak higher

 

[portgrinder]

Tried all sorts of different husky/ktm, sx,xc etc ignitions over the years and none made a significant difference when actually measured. Certainly not worth the cost of buying one.

on a stock cylinder I found that you want the red spring pretty much all the way out, regardless of how your cyl height is shimmed. If someone has made changes in the jug, then it would/could be different

 

[chumbilly1]

I am running the Red spring flush. On the SX stator there is a fair amount of adjustment in timing. Thats what I was referring too.

 

[Mendomotox]

Totally off topic.. but I don't see it being worth it tweaking the dirtbike engines when 100-150hp sled engine are already produced and well sorted out.

The build isn't finished yet but it should be soon. Using a 500cc 75hp sled engine, polaris CVT, polaris chain case, 136x15x2 polaris track and skid and a timbersled ski. We want to try the 15 wide track first but are considering cutting down to 12"

The next one will be 800cc cat powered and 144x2 track.

 

[powdermuncher]

Retartding makes the exhaust hotter but not the engine. The hotter pipe shifts the torque peak higher

I always had the air-cooled engines get hot with high octane fuel or retarded timing .
In both cases the hottest part of flame front is further down the stroke exposing more of the cylinder wall to the it as it accomplishes its work further down the stroke, this eventually also heats up the exhaust more. You are waisting good heat energy on the engine parts and heating the exhaust instead of moving the piston with it. Compression octane and timing all need to match to have a properly moving flame front at the proper crank angle to effectively make power.

 

[portgrinder]

What Eric said is right.

 

[2smokin]

The NPP pipe has been a great improvement for me. I going to do the raised cylinder with my next top end. My biggest issue at this point is I can't seem to keep the snow out of my intake on blower pow days. I have a pst velocity totally open, and when the snow is dusty I get a lot through even a brand new or re sprayed outerwear. My smart carb does not like it at all... It forms a ball of ice around the bottom of the metering rod and doesn't run well. I have an engine jacket, keeping the carb free of snow and a heater which really doesn't help this issue much. If anyone has any suggestions i'm desperate at this point, its extremely annoying. I have even tried double filter but snow gets built up in between the two and chokes it out. I also was wondering if anyone has any experience welding an 02 bung into a ceramic coated pipe. I was wanting a koso bung in my NPP pipe but that got lost in communication. The pipe is beautiful so i'm hoping to not have a big rust spot.

 

[portgrinder]

I think I still have a machined head around if you want it for raising your cylinder.

not sure it’s possible to keep all the snow out. Ide look at getting your carb hotter. Better contact patch between the heater and the carb / hotter coolant / more flow.

Contact patch is a real thing. If the heater is loose, the area available to transfer the heat is very very small. Really just one little spot of aluminum and the set screw.. I took forever with a dremmel and flapper wheel to get my heater so it was a press fit and touched all the way around.
Also I mix my fuel with some deicer in it. Maybe a couple ounces per 20L. I think that helps a lot.

 

[wwillf01]

The NPP pipe has been a great improvement for me. I going to do the raised cylinder with my next top end. My biggest issue at this point is I can't seem to keep the snow out of my intake on blower pow days. I have a pst velocity totally open, and when the snow is dusty I get a lot through even a brand new or re sprayed outerwear. My smart carb does not like it at all... It forms a ball of ice around the bottom of the metering rod and doesn't run well. I have an engine jacket, keeping the carb free of snow and a heater which really doesn't help this issue much. If anyone has any suggestions i'm desperate at this point, its extremely annoying. I have even tried double filter but snow gets built up in between the two and chokes it out. I also was wondering if anyone has any experience welding an 02 bung into a ceramic coated pipe. I was wanting a koso bung in my NPP pipe but that got lost in communication. The pipe is beautiful so i'm hoping to not have a big rust spot.

On our yz250 along with the carb heater I run small coolant lines off the carb heater also around the carb just for a little extra heat. I found it is important that the engine jacket needs to cover the engine for all snow spray will help also.. whether it is on the back or front. Carb heat is important but keeping the engine temp up will help all the way around. We run a Smartcarb by the way... we have for 3 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[2smokin]

On our yz250 along with the carb heater I run small coolant lines off the carb heater also around the carb just for a little extra heat. I found it is important that the engine jacket needs to cover the engine for all snow spray will help also.. whether it is on the back or front. Carb heat is important but keeping the engine temp up will help all the way around. We run a Smartcarb by the way... we have for 3 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a pretty good jacket setup, not much snow gets in and she stays 120-130 on the deepest days, my issue is visible amounts of snow passing through the pre filter and clogging up at the metering rod. 2 brand new pre filters has served me fairly well but they dont seem to last long. I'm feeling like i need to make an enclosure of some sort even though most people do ok with the open idea.

 

[tribalbc]

I have a pretty good jacket setup, not much snow gets in and she stays 120-130 on the deepest days, my issue is visible amounts of snow passing through the pre filter and clogging up at the metering rod. 2 brand new pre filters has served me fairly well but they dont seem to last long. I'm feeling like i need to make an enclosure of some sort even though most people do ok with the open idea.

I had the same issue with my kx5. The solution was moving the intake as close up to the seat as possible, nice and high. Close off both sides and leave bottom open. I then double bag my filters. For the outer filter I cut the inner filter out and just use the outer. Inner filter I use the stock double filter. I also find the filters lose their waterproofing in half to a full season. I replace the inner with a new one and take my previous inner, cut out inner filter, and use outer filter as my second later.

 

[2smokin]

I had the same issue with my kx5. The solution was moving the intake as close up to the seat as possible, nice and high. Close off both sides and leave bottom open. I then double bag my filters. For the outer filter I cut the inner filter out and just use the outer. Inner filter I use the stock double filter. I also find the filters lose their waterproofing in half to a full season. I replace the inner with a new one and take my previous inner, cut out inner filter, and use outer filter as my second later.

What brand filter are you using? I have outerwear and they seem to be one layer of material. I'm going to try something like what you have suggested, my current location gets blasted from the track, which I should probably close off as well. does this setup work for you when its a bars deep day? my wory about closing anything is that i'd imagine it will get packed on the super deep days

 

[tribalbc]

What brand filter are you using? I have outerwear and they seem to be one layer of material. I'm going to try something like what you have suggested, my current location gets blasted from the track, which I should probably close off as well. does this setup work for you when its a bars deep day? my wory about closing anything is that i'd imagine it will get packed on the super deep days

I am using outerwear but it is for a C3 pod intake which is a little different. It took lots of fiddling and changes but this works for me. And yes I live in BC so deep snow is the mainstay.
I covered my track for spray, but snow ends up building up on top of the guard because it has no where to go. Same with my side covers, they originally covered everything but now the bottoms are open to let snow exit. No matter what you do snow will find it's way in, you need to leave bottoms open for it to exit.
Even that little chain splash guard I made had to be a steep angle and ample clearance from the intake to keep snow from building up.
As you can see I carved up my rear fender to get the intake as high as possible.

 

[2smokin]

I am using outerwear but it is for a C3 pod intake which is a little different. It took lots of fiddling and changes but this works for me. And yes I live in BC so deep snow is the mainstay.
I covered my track for spray, but snow ends up building up on top of the guard because it has no where to go. Same with my side covers, they originally covered everything but now the bottoms are open to let snow exit. No matter what you do snow will find it's way in, you need to leave bottoms open for it to exit.
Even that little chain splash guard I made had to be a steep angle and ample clearance from the intake to keep snow from building up.
As you can see I carved up my rear fender to get the intake as high as possible.View attachment 367898

View attachment 367899

View attachment 367900

View attachment 367901

hmm this is super similar to how mine is, did you keep the track covered or ditch that? also how long do your pre filters last? Ive been thinking about trying to enclose the area with outerwears material but i have a funny feeling it will always fill with snow. Do you ever get snow through to the point of having issues? its mostly the dry days that really get me screwed up. We had a pretty wet pow day recently and it was much less of an issue of course.

 

[Hawkster]

Was looking at the little deflector above the chain , any of you guys tried chain wax in winter conditions ?