KTM 500 TSS INSTALL- Picture Heavy

[AKdragon700]

Here's a bunch of pictures of the airbox trim up. I pulled the gas tank, exhaust, seat, frame guards, rear fender, old intake boot, and two lower subframe bolts. This allowed me to flip the subframe up, sit on the timbersled frame, and have ample room to carve from all sides. By looking at the instructions and Rush44's install on his 450 I was able to match contours on the airbox and draw out the cut line. The easiest way to Dremel out thin plastic, in my mind, is using a Tungsten Carbide Bit (9903 is what I used), trim it flat with a light grit sanding wheel, then finish it off with a polishing wheel. I took a good two hours time to get all the edges cut, smoothed, and contoured right but that's just me.

 

[AKdragon700]

More..

I also trimmed the rear of my roost guard off so that I can retain my rear light and keep it from hitting my gas can during suspension travel. I also like the rigidity and hand grips that it adds. To cut the heavier plastic on the roost guard I had to use a cutting wheel instead of the carbide bit, then trim up with the sanding wheel.

 

[AKdragon700]

Final TSS Assembly

Final Install

Mount Air Intake- ensure proper room for air sensor when cutting the air intake boots to length

Zip Tie the air intake to both top and bottom to airbox to ensure it will not be moving

I honed the inside of the TSS mounts on the frame to ensure the plastic bushings would slide in without breaking them. I used 3 sanding wheels with varying grits and a power drill. After it slides in easy use a 3/4 socket to push them in with a little space for the o-ring to match up.

THEN go buy a 7/8 drill bit to hone the inside of the plastic. Because, you know, everyone needs a $39 7/8th drill bit on hand at all times. Trim the inside of the plastic bushing until the spacers slide in with ease.

I did not have to undo my master link to do this. If you leave your subframe unbolted like I show above. You can have someone lift the rear end of the kit high enough to just slip the chain on and off.


Be prepared to buy extra tools and bits to do it proper. All said and done after I upgraded to a better Dremel drill ($69.99), bought a carbide bit to router with ($10), 3 sanding wheels to hone Timbersled mounts ($5 each), and a 7/8th drill bit ($39.95). $135 in extra parts to do it right. If there is a better way that cheaper please elaborate

 

[AKdragon700]

Then go tear it up!!!

Go tear it up and hit some woops!!

 

[teal_210]

That's one heck of an ice block around your motor! What kind of temps are you running?

 

[AKdragon700]

Ice Block City

That's running like 100-130 on the temp. Wide open across the glacier. I have a huge ride plate on the front and an additonal P3 ride plate right against the engine. Radiators are covered. I don't want to have to put shrouds on and cover the engine, don't like the look or accesibility. Maybe my ride plate is too wide? The snow is able to sit up on it and build up. But its only sticks out as far as the shifter.

 

[yooper01]

Air Box

In regards to cutting the airbox, does the airbox touch the TSS if it is not modded, or is it just the air intake that Timbersled sends wont fit without some cutting.

I was thinking of cutting the TS intake down so it is similar what I ran on my 2moto. My kit is due in on thursday so I will find an answer soon enough via trial and error.

Mine is going on a 530, but the airbox dimensions appear to be similar to your newer 500.

 

[UPsnowbiker]

I need clarification too. I was able to fit the Timber sled provided intake in the stock air box chamber by just popping out the boot piece that connects to the carb.

Does the air box chamber hit the track when the suspension is fully compressed?

The TSS is smaller than the shock.

I'd really like to not remove the whole air box chamber.

 

[UPsnowbiker]

2010 450 XCW by the way