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KTM 300EXC or KTM450SX for explorerin'?

nice way to get people on an explorer and get rid of old stock....and hes still makin money. whats gonna happen when all the explorer ridin guys and gals want to upgrade? is adb gonna make a street bike kit or a kit to fit them bmw's(like addicts) or are they gonna be at a loss trying to find a HAWK?

If Adboivin made a kit for the KTM 950 series of bikes, then we would have it made. Blasting one of those motors and suspension with a bigole explorer track roosting across the hill and down the trail at 60-80mph, I can feel it now!:devil: It would surely rival anything that the SH800 series machines can do, on even ground. I am pleased with what I have seen with these kits. Typical huge aluminum side plates and all the rigging just bolted on. The chain wind through the drive axle is peculiar, I haven't decided if I like that yet.
 
If Adboivin made a kit for the KTM 950 series of bikes, then we would have it made. Blasting one of those motors and suspension with a bigole explorer track roosting across the hill and down the trail at 60-80mph, I can feel it now!:devil: It would surely rival anything that the SH800 series machines can do, on even ground. I am pleased with what I have seen with these kits. Typical huge aluminum side plates and all the rigging just bolted on. The chain wind through the drive axle is peculiar, I haven't decided if I like that yet.

I have ridden the 950's They make crazy linear power. But they are heavy. Track speed would be crazy. But you would be at a weight of a new REV. It would be interesting thats for sure.
 
Than is what I was thinking also, heavy, about 450#(mine is around 400#) and 90 chain driven HP. On a snowbike. HEHEHEHEHEHE hysteria, is it called? I have a theory that the bike's amazing handling and plow-through-anything ablility would transfer to snow...
 
I think the fun in the bike kits is the light weight and maneuverability..
High house power is a must for mountain riding. A turbo kitted bike would be fun..
If you go with a heavier machine then I think you might as well get a hawk.
Im hoping to have one in mt stable before to long.. to bad all the deals on hawks are on the east coast..Bovin really missed the market by not aggressively marketing that machine out here..
Lots of guys (sleders) Ive talked to are interested but think something must be wrong, due to the fact that they never see any while out riding..
It may be time for some custom "mountain" hawk like machines. HMMMM
 
Just ditch the ktm and get a honda XR650R or CR500R. Either one makes 70HP. I opted for the XR and the torque is awesome. 14 tooth sprocket and 4th gear is still retardedly fast - never tried 5th. I think I'll try a 13 tooth for more variety. I think close ratio would be much better for snow bikes. I also like being one of the only 4 strokes on the mountain. With my FMF system it makes a way cooler noise than them sledders. Weighs in at a mere 270lbs -wheels +kit. Quick kit.
 
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wow

what did you do to the XR to get 70 hp, neither of those bikes are anywhere close stock and a 650 weighs about 280 wet with the wheels on it right? i just got a berg 650 and they are supposed to be about 63-65 hp, its waaaay faster than the stock (except for pipe and jetting) XR i had . I need some of your horsepower secrets:D
 
650R's only make 55HP when simply uncorked. (and with much more torque than 55HP 450's) Add the edelbrock pumper carb, mod the airbox, add an exhaust system, add the stage 2 cam, and voila! The high compression piston is next after I were out the stocker if that ever happens. (some people report well over 100,000km before rebuild). It does weigh in at 273. The extra 40lbs over a 450 is purely motor weight as it was built for desert racing, and is virtually indestructable. Designed to run 200 hours straight wide open on the dyno without using up it's oil. Starts 1st kick every time no matter what the conditions or if it's been laying upside down in the snow. Don't have to worry about grenading the engine as it's built to last (when compared to 450 race bikes etc.) The only downside is the wide ratio trans. Good in the summer, but you have to rev it out and let the track catch up before shifting. Other than that, it's got way more than I could use until I get some practice. The CR500 would be mean as well, but wouldn't have the torque down low as mine. It would also be finickier starting in various conditions. Remember, I'm guaging flywheel horses not at the rear wheel. The Husaberg makes similar numbers in stock form. Sometimes book numbers and actual can be different. If you're interested, go to Vancouver supermoto's website, and go to tech, and to dyno days. It will give you a list of bikes - you can click on each one and read the dyno readout. From the rear wheel horsepower, you can calculate approximate engine power based on drivetrain efficiencies. I'm sure I'm pretty close with my guess as I can hit the gas at 60mph and pick the heavy front end up. Each mod makes quite a difference when you rejet accordingly. You make be able to up your power simply by reading your plug and jetting perfectly for your altitude/climate. It's just a matter of letting them breath and then feeding accordingly. All the jetting guidelines for my bike online have been way too lean for where I live (B.C.). I bought the big pumper carb because after the pipe and cam, the stocker couldn't feed the thing no matter what jet/needle combo. Now it's snappy like a 450 race bike, but pulls your arms off.
 
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The 300 won't need jetting changes unless you change 10,000 feet in elevation and it warms up 20 degrees at the same time.

I don't know what makes you think that. 2-stroke dirtbikes, especially the early 300 2-strokes, were very picky with jetting. a change of 20 degrees alone, or an elevation change of 4k feet could require a jetting change to run optimally.
 
it depends on the bike. i believe that the jap bikes like yam and honda do not have a very "smart" efi system and basically pick between a few different maps. the husabergs on the other hand have a constantly monitoring and variable efi system more like what is on new vehicles. this will make sure the AF ratio is perfect in any circumstance. jap bikes are open loop systems and husa's are closed loop. although the jap bikes may still be better than a carb
 
I hear that the jap EFI bikes run great but are hard starting cold. They have to perfect the technology a little further. Adding some kind of primer for cold starts would be the key. Remember, these bikes don't have 12V batteries and electric lift and injector pumps and whatever vehicals have to have maximum fuel pressure waiting when you hit the key.
 
Ok Went out with 2 2 moto kits. 1 09 efi kxf 450 and a 08 ktm 300. Rode on some unplowed roads and some powder fields and trails. The 300 was running alittle fat and did alright but not even close to the 450 in torque. We traded for awhile and the ktm 300 bud is probable going to buy a new kxf 450. I am not saying the 300 sucked but the 450 torque makes it easy to torque around at quarter throttle and not have to shift very much. It is hard to beat big 4 stroke power or probable a big 2 stroke 500. We are going to have a kx 500 with one and I think if jetted righy it should rule.
 
I have ridden a Gas-gas 300 two-stroke w/ 2moto a good amount. Compared to the KTM's I have ridden it was very light and alot of fun. But it just didn't have the torque that is really needed with a snow kit. It really struggled to pull 2-3 shifts, required alot of clutch to get the motor going again. I would stick with the 450, either of them will be fun though.

The question concerning FI vs carb, I can tell you first hand there is a big difference. The FI bikes run perfect all the time, no hip-cups, no flats spots, and the throttle response is much better than a carb. Honda and Kawasaki's systems do adjust for temperature. Although they are open loop systems my CRF and friend's KXF run perfect at every elevation and temperature. I have heard rumors of hard starting FI bikes, I can say the 09 KXF is the easiest starting 450 out there and my 09 CRF is right behind it. We can literally start both of our bikes by hand. I only have limited time on an FI RM-Z so can not really comment on how well it works, I will say my intial impression was not that great concerning the FI.
 
My 09 kxf is a great starting bike in the summer and winter after the initial start up. If it is -10 to -15 it takes alot of kicks to start on first fire up after that it,s 1st kick. Seems like it could use alittle more fuel at initail fire up in the cold though. Other than that it runs great, even ran it in -29 celcius last year.
 
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