Knowledge needed - I bought a 2006 700 RMK

[jaymzaugust]

I'm now the owner of a 2006 700 RMK 151. I'm in the process of getting everything ready to help make sure my riding season this year goes without major incident, outside of me center punching a tree. The sled has 1500 miles, an SLP can, and the fuel tank spout fix. Those are the only updates i know of.

I'm currently doing the radiator delete, and was considereing getting the kit from SLP that comes with the belly pan cover. Will this cover and one of the new bumpers from Skinz work together?

Links to said parts

Radiator Removal Kit
http://startinglineproducts.com/cat...ew=related&catalogID=3&catID=16&productID=827

Bumper
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/p...d=30701&skuId=516944&productId=p516944&mmyId=


Also, the intake boots behind the TBI are starting to crack. Are these a dealer only item? Where else can I purchase them?

I can see 4 engine mounts with the pipe and air boxes removed, two in front underneath the engine, two in the back on the sides. What i can see of these mounts (engine is installed) looks good, no cracking of the rubber. Is it safe to say that they're ok? Or do I really need to pull the engine to inspect the pucks, biscuits, or whatever they're called.

I've been reading, and it sounds like I need to run the 115 belt, it has the 080 currently installed (looks ok, wearing evenly so far). I read on here somewhere that shimming the primary is necessary before running the stronger kevlar belt, is this true? If so, how is that done. I understand the clutches should be aligned and belt deflection set regardless of what belt I'm running.

Thanks to everyone in advance.

 

[nmmiles]

Yes the kit from SLP will work with any mods you choose. The plat is just a piece of aluminum that joins your bulk head to your plastic so snow cant get in.

The bumper you have choosen is for 09-current IQ sleds. This will not work on your 900 unless you go with the new 09 front plastic. That is roughly $500. If you want a front bumper for the 900 their are a few options. Skinz makes one (http://www.skinzprotectivegear.com/snowmobileproduct/bumpers.html), Treedog makes one (thats his SN, send him a PM), and I know their is another but im drawing a blank here, someone please chime in?

The intake books are OEM only. Polaris is the only one that sells these. Babbitts is cheaper, but if you have a good relationship with your dealer sometimes I like to support them every know and then to.

Sorry to say but it is IMPOSSIBLE to tell the condition of your engine mounts while they are in the sled. They look fine now but to really tell you need to put them in a vise and pull them over to see the cracks. Compfusion makes a set of GREAT front mounts for these sleds that I would highly recommend. If your not having troubles with blowing belts or having trouble with keeping consistant clutching than I wouldn't worry about it. But it is definitely something I would do if you have the time and know-how.

Wish I could help you with the clutching but im usless in that department. Clutches scare me!! lol

Hope this helped.

-Nolan

 

[jafraune]

If your engine vibrates really bad at idle then smooths out during acceleration, then the mounts are probably bad.....just did mine with the updated 06 mounts and it was a night and day difference....

SLP makes a good kit for 20 bucks, use mountainhorse's diagram to install. Its the best way.

Buy the intake boots while your at this...be carefu with the tiny bolts they have on them. They are red loctited in there, you dont want one to break...can be a total pain in the ***. And use the 115 belt and use the 080 as your spare....

Good luck.

 

[guidoxpress]

Finally..

someone that bought one of the 05/06 sleds and did some reading first..and you even talked about the MAIN concerns and seem like you have an idea of what needs to be done..so PROPS to you for doing your homework..nothing worse then repeating yourslef every few days for someone too lazy to read, lol..

ok, now that my rant is over..

like stated above from nolan, and jack..do what they said..

radiator delets is a must, but make sure you have a set of scrathers installed (PM summitseeker) ordo a search on here for his scratchers..they rock!

aboslutelt pull your motor and look at your front mounts..will save you from blowing belts left and right when it does shift...THEN..if after you blow a few belts..you might as well kiss that crank good buy..they have a very weak, poor designed PTO stub...

balance your primary clutch..no matter what the dealer tells you..ship it off to someone that you can trust..(like 1200psi, indydan, carls cycle) around $100 depending on how dirty, and if you need new bushings.

maintain your clucthing (bushings, rollers, ect)

run the 115 belt (when you have it balance ship a NEW 115 belt with and have them shim it too) and run the 080 belt as a spare.

replace ALL your motor mounts with grade 8 bolts..even the rear mount housing bolts...and the front cross member plate that hold the front of the engine up..turst me..do this for sure..

here is a motor mount that looks excellent on th outside, but once in a vise its shot...my rear mount was like this as well. found it last week.

my wife has the 06 700, and she loves it, a little heavy, but once its setup its awesome..if you ever need help, drop me a PM, or email..

 

[mountainhorse]

I would use the plastic block off plate from the 2009 front kit...

It is pre notched for the lower bumper mount to make it easy to install.

 

[jaymzaugust]

Thanks for all the feedback. I found a friendly little mouse nest behind the regulator/rectifier next to the fuel tank, which will require the tank to be pulled to clean everything out and inspect the wiring. Its my understanding that the tank has to be removed to pull the engine anyway, so at least i'll be that much closer.

It idles smoothly, but picks up some vibration in the floorboards and handlebars between 2500-3000RPM, and the smooths back out after 3000RPM to when the clutch engages, no vibration at all from that point on.

I'll take pictures of the process and post them here, it should help other 1st timers like me down the road should they ever need to pull an engine.

No offense to anyone on this below part, just regurgitating what i've read:

Since its a 2006 700, i've read that the compfusion engine mount isn't necessary, OEM 2006 mounts are adequate for the smaller 755. But I'll probably get the torque arm and newer torque stops just for giggles, as if I go to all the trouble of pulling the engine, I want the new mounts to last more than two rides. If I'm wrong on this, please let me know.

 

[guidoxpress]

perfect..i would use the SLP torque arm and SLP push arm for sure..i installed these on my wifes 06 700 with zero issues before or after..i would for sure check the mounts, front and rear..ghet new ones if they are remotely crack..get new intake boots as well...i used some heat resistive tape (about 2-3 layers) on top of the new intake boots..this will deflect the heat from the Y-pipe that ruins them in the first place..

keep a close eye on your wiring..do not pull on any wiring very hard, and if you use zip ties..do not crank down on them..

check your TPS setting on your throttle bodies as well..get the updated pigtail if you want trouble free issues with that as well.

watch your stator wiring too, i yanked my tank and engine this year (was redone last year by the other owner) and the stator wiring was rubbing the bulkhead and i had 1 wire that was rubbed through and almost touching..was a close call and good find

you have done great research...i honestly would apply MOST of the things you here about the 900 to the 06 700 (755) as well..same design and layout..most of the same issues to..it will keep that baby on the snow and keep you from having many issues down the road..

great work so far..

 

[jaymzaugust]

Well, Engine is out

The engine is out. So, just how delicate is the wiring on these things? I'm probably worrying for nothing, but I'm frightened that I might have gotten a little tough on the stator and injector wires when lifting it out of the chassis, but I guess I'll burn that bridge when I get to it. Going back in should be much easier now that I have a clue as to where the wires go.

My bloodpressure should go back down once I get the engine back in and the wiring squared away. Everyone keep your fingers crossed, I've heard tracking down bad wires is a freaking nightmare on these. Any tricks to re-installing that might help?

Something interesting I noticed, the 4 crossmember bolts were grade 5s, but the 2 front engine mount bolts were grade 8s with blue loctite. Is this factory? 2 rear engine mount bolts were grade 5s. I'll be replacing all grade 5s with 8s, so no worries.

Front engine mounts looked good when locked in the vise and rolled over, no teared rubber. The stock torque stop over by the clutches is all smashed, probably need to replace it. Anyone have a part number handy?

The only bad engine mount was the right rear, the one near the oil tank. It was torn, but not badly. I'll be replacing it, but my guess is that it would have been fine once the SLP torque kit was installed. I'll post a pic of the torn mount soon. Also, what does everyone think of replacing all the mounts, even the ones that weren't torn?


Side note, I bent the clutch puller when taking the clutch off. I had to end up using the teflon tape with water in the hole method. I would STRONGLY advise everyone in the future to only use the teflon tape method if they want their clutch puller to survive.

 

[jafraune]

Something interesting I noticed, the 4 crossmember bolts were grade 5s, but the 2 front engine mount bolts were grade 8s with blue loctite. Is this factory? 2 rear engine mount bolts were grade 5s. I'll be replacing all grade 5s with 8s, so no worries.

Also, what does everyone think of replacing all the mounts, even the ones that weren't torn?

Its funny that you mention this....I had my motor out a few weeks ago and I ran across the same thing...the 4 were grade 5 and the two to others where grade 8 with blue loctite. Im pretty sure every came with grade 5 bolts so my guess is that motor had to be out before.

To be honest while you have your engine all the way out I would REPLACE every mount. All of my mounts except one, with a rip in it where "passable" in the vise test. My motor went from having awful vibrations (just looking at it as it idled)....too a smooth running vette motor.) It really made a huge difference. You can use the Compfusion motor mounts or the 06 OEM mounts.

Good luck, Jack

 

[jafraune]

The stock torque stop over by the clutches is all smashed, probably need to replace it. Anyone have a part number handy?

3021354

about 10 bucks at your local dealer...

 

[jaymzaugust]

New engine mounts, clutch bolt, fuel filter, throttle body boots, bumper, SLP engine stabilizer kit, radiator delete kit, and belt is on the way!

FYI the guys at http://www.polarispartspitstop.com are wonderful to work with. I ordered some stuff from them on Wednesday night, and found the broken motor mount afterwards. I called them up today and they combined my previous order with my new motor mount one to save on shipping. I spent 5 minutes on the phone and was quite impressed!

I don't have any dealers around that don't include a 2 hour drive, so i'm pretty much forced to go online.

 

[jafraune]

What a money pit eh? Dont worry it will all be worth it when your balls deep in powder...

 

[f15ejedi]

I've sunk about $1700 into my 900 this season. But I knew it would take some money to get it set up properly. I had also done a lot of research before I bought this sled from a friend. He had a bad shoulder and couldn't muscle it around. I rode it 5 times last year with no modifications and it performed excellent except for vibration and eating a belt in 5 rides. With the torque arm and stop new ski's, engine mounts balanced clutch, a-arms and shocks it should be pretty well set up. Can't wait for snow!!!

 

[94fordguy]

I've sunk about $1700 into my 900 this season. But I knew it would take some money to get it set up properly. I had also done a lot of research before I bought this sled from a friend. He had a bad shoulder and couldn't muscle it around. I rode it 5 times last year with no modifications and it performed excellent except for vibration and eating a belt in 5 rides. With the torque arm and stop new ski's, engine mounts balanced clutch, a-arms and shocks it should be pretty well set up. Can't wait for snow!!!

Welcome to the club, I dumped $1600 into mine this summer getting it set up for this season exactly how I wanted it Should be good to go now tho

Where's the snow?

 

[BIGGDAWG]

hey i got ya both beat i will be around 4500 this season but most of that was my new 975

on edit: I don't think i should have added up those figures. i was better not knowing the total lol

 

[f15ejedi]

I didn't add in the bolts I replaced, zip ties and all the fluids. There was a bunch of misc. crap I didn't count. My wife was quizing me last night about the total so I had to tap dance around that! LOL!!! She doesn't really care just balancing the checkbook! I'm one of the lucky ones that has a cool wife that doesn't share my addiction of riding but does support it.

 

[MacDawg productions]

Yeah, it is painful blowing all the money on your machine before the snow falls. I just hope I don't smoke a tree head on, because I won't be able to afford to fix it!! I'm running up with BIGDAWG, cost wise. Just over $4 g's of mods these last couple of months. Torque master 3 kit, FBF cable, Replaced SLP pusharm, Slp led brake light, all new motor mounts(compfusion mounts), fuel filter, grade 8 motor mount bolts all around, intake boots, new challenger series track,new belt....There is probably more stuff I'm forgetting. I think I have all my basis covered. Next year, maybe a turbo!!!

 

[94fordguy]

Yeah, it is painful blowing all the money on your machine before the snow falls. I just hope I don't smoke a tree head on, because I won't be able to afford to fix it!! I'm running up with BIGDAWG, cost wise. Just over $4 g's of mods these last couple of months. Torque master 3 kit, FBF cable, Replaced SLP pusharm, Slp led brake light, all new motor mounts(compfusion mounts), fuel filter, grade 8 motor mount bolts all around, intake boots, new challenger series track,new belt....There is probably more stuff I'm forgetting. I think I have all my basis covered. Next year, maybe a turbo!!!

It's pretty bad when the belts are so expensive that you hafta factor them into your summer mod total... haha

I forgot that in my total, I guess $1600 just turned into $1800 for me

 

[MacDawg productions]

It's pretty bad when the belts are so expensive that you hafta factor them into your summer mod total... haha

I forgot that in my total, I guess $1600 just turned into $1800 for me

Hahaha, no kidding!

 

[jaymzaugust]

Pictures Added

Attached are a few notefull pictures. After the engine was out and I started looking at the mounts, I seriously started to question my sanity. It was starting to look like I pulled the engine for nothing. Front mounts checked out ok, rear PTO side mount checked out ok, and FINALLY I found a bad one that needed to be replaced, mag side rear. Finding that one bad mount made the whole process worth my trouble!

The two of the sled are after I gave it a good bath.