Khaos shock settings.

[summ8rmk]

Back in the Mseries days, we would count threads under the spanner nut.
I always liked my FTS with more preload than most people and it worked great for my riding style.

My ski shocks have almost one thread, FTS has 10 threads, RTS has 3 threads.
I am 190lbs.

Skis H (for high speed) 7, L (for low speed) 6, FTS H 3, L 8, RTS H 7, L 6.
This count is from the counter clockwise lowest setting.

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[boondocker97]

FYI suspension damping settings should always be from full hard (clickers turned all the way in). Variations in parts can lead to one shock having more "clicks" than another. If the settings are done from full closed they will be consistent across multiple shocks.

 

[summ8rmk]

From full right(high)
Skis H 1, L 7, FTS H 5, L 4, RTS H 1, L 6.





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[Teth-Air]

Food for thought: I have a 174 AXYS and this time of the year it can feel a bit tough to steer around as the snow is pretty hard and getting on edge is not always an option, especially in slightly off camber riding. I have found that tightening up the front skid shock spring and softening the rear does make it roll around more and make it feel lighter. To counter act the reduced control, I run the skis on the wide position for Spring riding. The theory here is the skis act more like out-riggers and can correct the direction easier as they touch down. Throwing on edge is still easy in the wide position with the skid shock set up this way..

 

[FatDogX]

Couple follow-up questions,

How many guys have changed out the rear track shock spring???

Anyone change out all the shock springs, ski and rear suspension???

 

[klarkkentster]

So since we seem to be missing the point a bit here, let's bring it back in. Typically you'll get more transfer by softening the rear track shock and more tip and lift working with increasing the preload on the front track shock (and the skis as well). I don't have a Khaos, but I'm intrigued by the possibility of having a shock that can be tuned by both high-speed and low-speed compression, sounds pretty bad-ass to me. Has anyone else found it necessary to dial in MORE transfer and tip into the sled? If so, how?

This winter I picked up a brand new '19 Axys PRO RMK 163-3" (my first brand new sled ever) and have the sled dialed to where I LOVE IT! I've got lots of transfer and it rolls pretty dang easy for a sled that was so 'stiff' out of the box. Only complaint I have now is that the rear track shock bottoms out way too easy with my given amount of transfer and pre-load where I want them. The Velocity shocks sound bad-ass and I wouldn't mind picking one up to replace the RTS if I can acheive the same performance and eliminate the bottoming issue that's solely a high speed dampening problem. So I'm curious to hear some advice on this too if someone has found a good combination of making the sled tip and roll easier.

I have a 19' 3" as well. How did you set your rear suspension up? 2" of sag on the rear track shock? Did you run your front track shock with little preload?

I'm struggling getting mine to handle how I want.

 

[94fordguy]

I have a 19' 3" as well. How did you set your rear suspension up? 2" of sag on the rear track shock? Did you run your front track shock with little preload?

I'm struggling getting mine to handle how I want.

It's been a while, but if memory serves I've got a lot more than 2 inches of sag, probably double that. I do recall loosening the rear track spring quite a bit along with stiffening the front track shock and loosing both A-arm shocks to get the sled to pivot more centered on the front of the track. That was roughly my setup last spring in our cascade concrete spring snow, I havent ridden it yet this year in dryer snow, but I think I'm going to turn the rear shock spring back up a few turns to help with the bottoming I was having trouble with.

I do recall loosening/tightening the shocks a lot more than I thought I would have had to to get the sled to react the way I wanted, it was stiff as a board out of the box new.

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[klarkkentster]

It's been a while, but if memory serves I've got a lot more than 2 inches of sag, probably double that. I do recall loosening the rear track spring quite a bit along with stiffening the front track shock and loosing both A-arm shocks to get the sled to pivot more centered on the front of the track. That was roughly my setup last spring in our cascade concrete spring snow, I havent ridden it yet this year in dryer snow, but I think I'm going to turn the rear shock spring back up a few turns to help with the bottoming I was having trouble with.

I do recall loosening/tightening the shocks a lot more than I thought I would have had to to get the sled to react the way I wanted, it was stiff as a board out of the box new.

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Thank you. I think I’m on the right path mirroring what you have done. Hopefully my Khaos rails get here in a week or two and get them on as well. I’m out here in the cascade concrete stuff as well. I live in Bremerton.


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[94fordguy]

I had my Axys RMK 163x3" out yesterday for the first time this season (have been riding the 13 155" for early season) and got a chance to re-acquaint myself with it and how it handles, my buddy summ8rmk had his Khaos 155x3" along for the ride as well so we got to do some comparing. Conditions weren't ideal, there was a HARD icy crust under a relatively thin layer of mixed light and heavy snow so handling and traction was unpredictable depending on the face, aspect, and wind characteristics of each hill, along with the tracks and trenches from previous riders , it was a really mixed bag of snow conditions.

Anyway, though I had planned to tighten my RTS a bit, after riding yesterday I think I'm going to leave all of my current suspension setup alone, I have the basic PRO RMK shocks, not the clickers or anything fancy. The downfall of my setup is bottoming out, I have to be really careful how I land when doing even small jumps so I don't break anything from a sudden bottom-out, but on the flip side of that, the rest of the time I'm extremely happy with the way the sled handles and it transfers insanely well for a 163, tall wheelies and good ski-lift on demand are both easy to attain without excessive body english. I do wish I had the better shocks to prevent my bottoming-out problem, but for now I'm pretty happy with my altered stock setup, especially since I've never been into big jumps or doing drops anyway.

At the moment I currently have the following amount of threads showing from the bottom of the shock body (full loose) to the nut. I know all springs are different, but this is my setup on the basic shocks

A-Arms: 6
FTS: 11
RTS: 19

 

[FatDogX]

Okay........

Just curious, are you planning on changing to a Khaos setup and documenting the upcoming changes or something? The reason I ask is because the focus of the thread is on the new Khaos shock settings??

 

[94fordguy]

Okay........

Just curious, are you planning on changing to a Khaos setup and documenting the upcoming changes or something? The reason I ask is because the focus of the thread is on the new Khaos shock settings??

I might change out the shocks at some point if I found a good deal, I'm not sure honestly. I didn't mean to hijack, just trying to help answer a question. I do pay very close attention to how my buddys Khaos handles out on the slopes and compare that to other setups.

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[FatDogX]

I might change out the shocks at some point if I found a good deal, I'm not sure honestly. I didn't mean to hijack, just trying to help answer a question. I do pay very close attention to how my buddys Khaos handles out on the slopes and compare that to other setups.

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Cool, post up your buddies settings and feedback.


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[summ8rmk]

Clicks from maxed out clockwise.
Rider ~175lbs

Skis 8 threads, low speed 5 clicks, high speed 1. Was 6 threads and 3 high speed clicks, Had to add 2 threads and subtract 2 clicks to stop bottoming out on little jumps

FTS 8 threads, low speed 2 clicks, high speed 4. (Haven't touched it since spring)

RTS 3 threads, low speed 8 clicks, high speed 3.
Just changed rear to 2 threads, may go to 1.

94fordguy's 162 has a lot more transfer than my 156.... i need more wheelies! [emoji16]

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[FatDogX]

Skis 8 threads, low speed 8 clicks, high speed maxed(8). Was 6 threads and 6 high speed clicks, Had to add 2 threads and 2 clicks to stop bottoming out on little jumps

FTS 8 threads, low sped 11 clicks, high speed 4. (Haven't touched it since spring)

RTS 3 threads, low speed 4 clicks, high speed 5.
Just changed rear to 2 threads, may go to 1.

94fordguy's 162 has a lot more transfer than my 156.... i need more wheelies! [emoji16]

Sent it

Couple questions for ya,

Rider weight?

And I assume your number of clicks are from maxed out firm then backed off X amount?

Also, I haven't officially looked or tried it, but I thought the Velocity shocks only had 8 total clicks from full firm to full soft?

 

[klarkkentster]

I had my Axys RMK 163x3" out yesterday for the first time this season (have been riding the 13 155" for early season) and got a chance to re-acquaint myself with it and how it handles, my buddy summ8rmk had his Khaos 155x3" along for the ride as well so we got to do some comparing. Conditions weren't ideal, there was a HARD icy crust under a relatively thin layer of mixed light and heavy snow so handling and traction was unpredictable depending on the face, aspect, and wind characteristics of each hill, along with the tracks and trenches from previous riders , it was a really mixed bag of snow conditions.

Anyway, though I had planned to tighten my RTS a bit, after riding yesterday I think I'm going to leave all of my current suspension setup alone, I have the basic PRO RMK shocks, not the clickers or anything fancy. The downfall of my setup is bottoming out, I have to be really careful how I land when doing even small jumps so I don't break anything from a sudden bottom-out, but on the flip side of that, the rest of the time I'm extremely happy with the way the sled handles and it transfers insanely well for a 163, tall wheelies and good ski-lift on demand are both easy to attain without excessive body english. I do wish I had the better shocks to prevent my bottoming-out problem, but for now I'm pretty happy with my altered stock setup, especially since I've never been into big jumps or doing drops anyway.

At the moment I currently have the following amount of threads showing from the bottom of the shock body (full loose) to the nut. I know all springs are different, but this is my setup on the basic shocks

A-Arms: 6
FTS: 11
RTS: 19

Thank you. I have Z-bros on the rear skid and Zobros dual rates on my stick clicker WE's - but this gives me an idea where to go. MY Khaos Ice Age rails will hopefully arrive this next week and will get those, limit strap and longer shock installed and really start getting serious about dialing them in. May even order the Elevate spindles this week as well.

 

[summ8rmk]

Couple questions for ya,

Rider weight?

And I assume your number of clicks are from maxed out firm then backed off X amount?

Also, I haven't officially looked or tried it, but I thought the Velocity shocks only had 8 total clicks from full firm to full soft?

Clockwise clicks.
From low to high. After reading this I remember that i am supposed to count from high to low... counter clockwise [emoji54]

Low speed has 12-13 clicks depending on the shock i guess.....



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[FatDogX]

Clockwise clicks.
From low to high. After reading this I remember that i am supposed to count from high to low... counter clockwise [emoji54]

Low speed has 12-13 clicks depending on the shock i guess.....



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Yeah, now that I think about it more. If memory serves me correctly,

About 13 total clicks on the low speed
About 8 total clicks on the high speed

Again, I think that's correct.

 

[Jaynelson]

Finally got some time on a Khaos. 155x3...normally ride a 163x2.6, so it was a handful for a first ride and barely any riding last year. Really fun sled!

210lb in street clothes...I’m finding the ski shocks very soft from factory. It’s plush all around, but seems the preloads from ski shocks to the skid shocks are a little unbalanced out of the box. Makes it insanely easy to initiate a carve, but would like to preserve some ride height/travel. Fiddled around and found a clicker setup in the rear I was happy with...but going to have to check it out at home to see what it was lol. And again, riding a bit low in the travel. That all said, even with soft settings, finding the bottom is very rare.

Didn’t have time to mess with the preloads...just turned the ski shock clickers most of the way in to get by for the day. Next ride...going to go a good shot more preload on the skis, a little more in both the rears, and maybe a click or 2 up on the factory settings all around and see what happens.

Definitely worth going through the settings on these, there is quite a bit going on and it’s not optimized for a lot of riders out of the box.