Hey guys I just picked up a 12 Pro RMK 800 with about 1000 miles! I am coming off a Cat and dont know anything on these Poo's. Got it out for a good 100 miles trail/off trail rip just to see how it felt and I quickly loved the machine very easy to control and toss around. Now I want to start checking things out to make sure we are in good running order so any links or advice on what to go through would be great.
Just bought a 12 Pro RMK 800 what all to check over
- Thread starter 99slpss
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Nothing!!!
F
FCR112
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Chain case oil change, verify chain tension.
The track spec is super tight compared to cats. Leave it tight it works great.
The primary clutch weights are different, the bushings on the weight that the bolt goes through wear out. Maybe check those along with the primary spring. But you'd know if it was broken, same deal with not hitting high enough rpms.
There's a debate about turning up oiler, check usage the 12's were pretty lean from factory. Solid sled, The burandt or aftermarket boards make it even better.
Have fun!!!
The track spec is super tight compared to cats. Leave it tight it works great.
The primary clutch weights are different, the bushings on the weight that the bolt goes through wear out. Maybe check those along with the primary spring. But you'd know if it was broken, same deal with not hitting high enough rpms.
There's a debate about turning up oiler, check usage the 12's were pretty lean from factory. Solid sled, The burandt or aftermarket boards make it even better.
Have fun!!!
Cool thanks for the reply. How tight should the chain be? I have had Diamond Drive sleds to long to remember!! I was lucky enough the guy before me put the Burandt boards on.
Is there a particular way to clean the power valves? I noticed they look like the work of vacuum???? is there any adj or spec they need to be at? I dont have a manual on the sled yet. And I cannot figure out what gasket for 12 seen so many different numbers around I can't figure out which is right or wrong!!
check the primary clutch for cracks. apparently that year had a bad batch.
Sent ya a Message. Thanks
Grease the skid, and look for abnormal wear and binding. The skids will wear prematurely if they are not maintained. They like lube.
Ski rubbers.
Oiler setting. If you have a shop manual, you'll know how to give it a look. Turning it up, if it isn't, is up to you. But find out what it's set at now.
I would crack apart the secondary and check bushing, rollers, helix, spring, looking for abnormal wear, galling, spring binding. Cheap insurance.
If the belt is old, and most used sleds do not come with new belts, I would drop a new one on it and set deflection.
If you don't know the fuel filter condition, put a new one on. I do spend other people's money well, but you asked.
Check throttle free play. It's adjusted up top, above the hood. Simple barrel adjuster. It's in your shop manual.
You know about the VES, primary, and chaincase. Good luck, enjoy.
Ski rubbers.
Oiler setting. If you have a shop manual, you'll know how to give it a look. Turning it up, if it isn't, is up to you. But find out what it's set at now.
I would crack apart the secondary and check bushing, rollers, helix, spring, looking for abnormal wear, galling, spring binding. Cheap insurance.
If the belt is old, and most used sleds do not come with new belts, I would drop a new one on it and set deflection.
If you don't know the fuel filter condition, put a new one on. I do spend other people's money well, but you asked.
Check throttle free play. It's adjusted up top, above the hood. Simple barrel adjuster. It's in your shop manual.
You know about the VES, primary, and chaincase. Good luck, enjoy.
S
Sixat38
Well-known member
Don't know if anyone mentioned it but you might want to take a look at your motor mounts & bolts. Throw a wench on them and give 'em a quick check.
Also, wiring. Take a look at all the wiring for rubbing & wear. Wiring for the injectors, controls for the handle bars where they are routed up trough the over structure, underneath/behind the toggles for the hand warmers & other toggles on the console, exhaust temp sensor, all the wiring over by the clutch guard/ oil tank, spark plug wires, etc etc etc.
You might want to take a peak under the motor and see if any oils lines are rubbing on the tunnel/bulkhead.
Most of these items were cured by '12 but it doesn't hurt to go over everything.
Also, wiring. Take a look at all the wiring for rubbing & wear. Wiring for the injectors, controls for the handle bars where they are routed up trough the over structure, underneath/behind the toggles for the hand warmers & other toggles on the console, exhaust temp sensor, all the wiring over by the clutch guard/ oil tank, spark plug wires, etc etc etc.
You might want to take a peak under the motor and see if any oils lines are rubbing on the tunnel/bulkhead.
Most of these items were cured by '12 but it doesn't hurt to go over everything.
Thanks for all the info guys, Starting the check through tonight!
Anyone have a good way to explain the process of cleaning the VES valves? I dont want to screw them up!! On my cat I just unbolted them and disconnected the cable and cleaned them piece of cake.
Anyone have a good way to explain the process of cleaning the VES valves? I dont want to screw them up!! On my cat I just unbolted them and disconnected the cable and cleaned them piece of cake.
Make sure your throttle cable has almost zero free play at the flipper and with 1000 miles pull both spark plug caps and give the internal part of the cap a good cleaning (wire brush) for some reason they make a lot of soot which will eventually lead to misfires and weak spark, gas and go.
Nobody has suggested a compression test or checking the rings for flaking? The only thing it probably really needs is a set of pistons.
I have used Amsoil and Polaris gold oil and have never had an issue with the variable exhaust valves. But if you are going to check them out (1000 miles is nothing) make sure you have two gaskets on hand just in case you can't reuse the old ones. For me the most important thing is to watch the temp gauge.
Oh, and don't back up with the scratchers down, and the rear bumper stinks! Good luck!
Oh, and don't back up with the scratchers down, and the rear bumper stinks! Good luck!Cool everything looks good. Did find a broken primary spring though but got new one.
What temp should these sleds run at never had a sled with a digital temp gauge!
What temp should these sleds run at never had a sled with a digital temp gauge!
F
Fatchellparty
New member
-check hi-fax
-ensure track is proper tension(really tight)
-check center drive ports of the track for damaged edges(loose track can cause damage leading to delamination there)
-drain chaincase oil set tension
-turn up oiler
-compression test
And everything everyone else mentioned
-ensure track is proper tension(really tight)
-check center drive ports of the track for damaged edges(loose track can cause damage leading to delamination there)
-drain chaincase oil set tension
-turn up oiler
-compression test
And everything everyone else mentioned
depends on the conditions. below freezing with some powder should keep you around 122*. it just goes up from there with less than ideal conditions.
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