Jetting/Clutching 2007 IQ 600 RMK

[SpeedWobble]

Trying to help a friend get her 2007 600 (carbed) running better. Don't have jetting or clutching sheets for the sled. Haven't had a chance to determine which needle is in the sled, but it is in the leanest position and the sled is still blubbery rich on bottom to mid range. With 60 gram weights she can only get about 7500 - 7600 rpm.

I want to tear into the carbs and clutches, but I need a good starting point for clutching and jetting.

Thanks for any help out there.

 

[dotter]

60o

Didn't say altitude? At 6000 and up 1054 and stock springs should be OK. At 1000' 1060 or 1062 with stock springs. Jetting 280 above 6000 should be ok. This will give you a start. Good luck ! I think fuel screws are 1 turn out, check that and turn in 1/4 turn? Some guys change pilots leaner

 

[Trenchmaster]

My wifes 07 600 was way to rich on the bottom end with the stock jetting. I don't remember the number, but I do know that I went two sizes smaller on the pilot jets. The stock jetting sheet called for .5 turn open on the fuel screws. I now run between 1.5 and 2 turns open with the smaller pilot jets, works way better. Good luck

 

[dieselred]

Which way on the "fuel screw" is leaner/richer?

 

[MARV1]

I know these well, too bad no more real tech info given on this site from me.

 

[dieselred]

Hehe...

 

[SpeedWobble]

I realize you have a problem with Snowest charging for the forums now, but why take that out on your fellow snowmobilers? This site used to be a great place to share info, now it's turned into a pissing match between the members and site administraters.
FRUSTRATING

 

[MARV1]

The knowledge I've gained over the years of reading and posting was free. My trials and errors and miles put on were out of my pocket, and I like how my sleds run. To share on here means it becomes someone else's database, they consider it their own copyright even though they did not do it themselves.
Search and you will find the info.

 

[thefullmonte]

He is simply looking for some help with setting up a sled.

Please, I don't want this to turn into another pointless debate that accomplishes nothing. Or even worse, causes more lost friendships.
Marv, I know your complaints and they are understood, but we can't do anything about it. So it no longer pays to waste the effort being upset about it. Over here in the Polaris IQ section nothing has changed. We are all still friends trying to help each other out. Trust me on this, the stress this is causing you guys isn't worth it in the least. If this is the most important thing to worry about and get upset about then I want your life. I can find plenty of important things to give me gray hair if I need it.
Ok, back on topic.
There are a few other guys on here with the 600's. Hopefully SDCoyote and Skibreeze will chime in.

 

[Daggerboat]

fuel screws

Which way on the "fuel screw" is leaner/richer?

Clockwise = leaner Counterclockwise =richer

 

[SD Coyote]

Trying to help a friend get her 2007 600 (carbed) running better. Don't have jetting or clutching sheets for the sled. Haven't had a chance to determine which needle is in the sled, but it is in the leanest position and the sled is still blubbery rich on bottom to mid range. With 60 gram weights she can only get about 7500 - 7600 rpm.

I want to tear into the carbs and clutches, but I need a good starting point for clutching and jetting.

Thanks for any help out there.

I have the charts for the 06 600 HO but need to know your riding elv. and temp. The 07 was carbed a little diff than the 06, but I can get you close. Post more info or PM me if you want.

 

[SpeedWobble]

Sled is an '07 600 RMK 155. We ride from about 3000' to 7000' elevation. Currently have stock clutching in back clutch ( 56/42-.36 helix, red/black spring, 1 delrin washer under spring cup). Front clutch has black/green spring with 60 gram weights. We are running 320 main jets with needle in the first position (leanest). Fuel screw is open 1 turn. 50 pilots. Sled came with the 1080 belt, so we set up the side clearance with that belt.

I have spent countless hours over the years making my own sleds run better, and I am not trying to freeload advice, I am just trying to find a good starting point so that I can get the sled running better this weekend. (We are going on a trip to Montana next week).

Thanks again for any info you can provide.

 

[SpeedWobble]

By the looks of my red reputation, someone on here doesn't have very thick skin.

 

[dieselred]

Hey Speed,
I live/ride in MT and my stock 08 6 with the TM38 is using 280 mains and I dropped the pilot one size (from 50) with the needle in #2 position. The primary is using 56 weights with 130/330 spring. Secondary is using the black spring. The only time I go to lighter weights is over 8000' so I can still rev at 8000 +-200

 

[SD Coyote]

Your clutch springs and helix are fine as is the delrin. Your needles are in standard setting for 6-8 thou ft. (pos 1). 3-5 thou ft and colder than 35* needles should be in 2nd pos. The 320 mains, needles in 1, are for 4-6 thou 30-50 degrees. Your weights may be a little heavy, Id suggest 58s where you are riding. One turn out should be fine on the fuel screw. Most 07 owners lowered their pilots to 40 or 45. A lot of them also put a .9 pilot air jet in. If you take a trip up higher, (the standard RMK set) is 56 weights, same springs your using, same helix, with 20/41 gears, mains 280, needles in 1 pos. This standard setting is for 6-8 thou 15-35 degrees. Hope this helps!

 

[Roadtrip]

do me

So when this thread hits 20 are you going to pay SW to read # 21 or just start another thread asking the same question?
I have the 08 version of this sled and it is sensitive to altitude and jetting. I put an ATTAC on it but you still have to get the jets just right to make it work. Make sure that the clutch is tight and the ex valves are clean and working good. A stretched out belt can also slow you down. Use high octane when reducing jet size., When you hit the right jet increase by 2 sizes or just run it with high octane.

Now, if someone would like to explain to me why I should pay to listen to people complain, you 800 guys know who you are, I am all ears.

 

[Roadtrip]

coo coo cachoo

Oh, and I stayed with the stock pilot jet and plugged the ex-valve vent. That allows the exhaust valves to open at the right time, earlier, and the throttle response was noticeably improved.
And if you run it in fluffy snow the drafty air intake will allow the engine to suck up lots of snow. The engine does not like that. Low compression results so seal up the air box. I used the frogskin vent covers, clear silicon, and household weatherstrip.
Good thing the count is still under 20


I am so happy.

 

[GKR]

Same sled as you have. Went to 45 pilots, .9PAJ, fuel screw at 3/4. Cleaned the bottom end right up. I went with ATAAC as well, jetting is a pain on this one. Needle is second from leanest, can't remember which main but ATAAC set up walks you thru that and I went with the stock recommended main at -29C and 3000' (from chart). Could probably be one leaner. I have 19/42 gears, stock clutching with 1 delrin, and 58g weights for the same elevation you ride at. Sled rips, idles and starts much better, fuel economy picked up a bunch too. Make sure belt is adjusted right, tight to the point os squeeling then back it off just a hair. You will be very happy with this setup.
Cheers.

 

[bigtvents]

600 RMK

I have a '07 600 RMK, 155", that I recently bought for my son. I've been doing as much research on here as I could in regard to the bottom end bog. I've tried various set ups, but still have the bog. Have I gone too lean or have I missed something ? Being a carbed model, does it have any type of TPS or other electrical to check ? We unload at about 1500', but most riding is 5-7000'. Mid to top end runs great @ 81-8200 rpm.
All stock except for L/W can.
Current setup is: 390 MJ with variflow. seems correct for our altitude.
40 PJ, went down from 50 to 45 to 40.
.9 PAJ
fuel screw at 3/4 turn.
#2 needle position from top.
Clutching: 56 gram
blk/grn drive spring.
58/38/46 helix with red/blk spring & 1 delrin. ( had stock
helix in it when I bought it ).
18:43 gearing.
Thanks for any input. Tony.

 

[MARV1]

I have a '07 600 RMK, 155", that I recently bought for my son. I've been doing as much research on here as I could in regard to the bottom end bog. I've tried various set ups, but still have the bog. Have I gone too lean or have I missed something ? Being a carbed model, does it have any type of TPS or other electrical to check ? We unload at about 1500', but most riding is 5-7000'. Mid to top end runs great @ 81-8200 rpm.
All stock except for L/W can.
Current setup is: 390 MJ with variflow. seems correct for our altitude.
40 PJ, went down from 50 to 45 to 40.
.9 PAJ
fuel screw at 3/4 turn.
#2 needle position from top.
Clutching: 56 gram
blk/grn drive spring.
58/38/46 helix with red/blk spring & 1 delrin. ( had stock
helix in it when I bought it ).
18:43 gearing.
Thanks for any input. Tony.

Bring your fuel screw out and see if it helps. Or put it on half choke and see if it cures the bog and if it does then you are lean for sure on bottom end which should be cured by bringing the fuel screws out to 1 1/4 or 1 1/2.