be cautious with alot of the engine cooling products out there....most i have found are water based. this means they can and will freeze just like water and will cause serious engine damage! happened to a friends yz426 a few years back. ending up cracking the cylinder! keep it in a heated garage at nite...
Is overheating caused by small shroud?
- Thread starter HellSpawn
- Start date
Thanks Man,
I going to make a shroud that will hold the snow
on the track (unless someone out west wants to give one up, since they don't likely need it up there) as far as the upgrades go.... I think I'll hold off because right now the Hawk is about 10% fun and 90% work......
worst case scenario I'll sell it...... I can't beleive I'm actually thinking about selling it.... lets see what happens
I going to make a shroud that will hold the snow
on the track (unless someone out west wants to give one up, since they don't likely need it up there) as far as the upgrades go.... I think I'll hold off because right now the Hawk is about 10% fun and 90% work......
worst case scenario I'll sell it...... I can't beleive I'm actually thinking about selling it.... lets see what happens
Truck Bedliner flap...
Bud told me he made some extensions on his hawks with a piece of an old platic truck bedliner. I have the same flap as you do and even with being out west here, riding on the trail for a short minute or two I was overheating. So I Cut and rivited a piece to extend the flap up the track another 12 inches or so to catch more snow and shoot it onto the coolers. Planning on making another to rivet on and extend down to scrape the ground like the upgraded flap. The first piece I made works really well and looks like it is just part of the original hawk. Haven't overheated again yet. This could be the less expensive fix for you...
Bud told me he made some extensions on his hawks with a piece of an old platic truck bedliner. I have the same flap as you do and even with being out west here, riding on the trail for a short minute or two I was overheating. So I Cut and rivited a piece to extend the flap up the track another 12 inches or so to catch more snow and shoot it onto the coolers. Planning on making another to rivet on and extend down to scrape the ground like the upgraded flap. The first piece I made works really well and looks like it is just part of the original hawk. Haven't overheated again yet. This could be the less expensive fix for you...
Thanks 007,
I was going to make it out of thick crazy carpet,
or some thick rubber mud flaps
I was going to make it out of thick crazy carpet,
or some thick rubber mud flaps
proven very effective
Ok I rode for 3 awsome days. did some trail testing with no snowflap and ice scratchers. Hottest I saw on vapor was 125 degrees with scratchers down. I had them up for awhile temp was 152 stopped and put down and within 300yards temps were back in 130s. case closed!
Ok I rode for 3 awsome days. did some trail testing with no snowflap and ice scratchers. Hottest I saw on vapor was 125 degrees with scratchers down. I had them up for awhile temp was 152 stopped and put down and within 300yards temps were back in 130s. case closed!
very cool test JL! now if anyone wants to sell me their flap to keep the snow off my back im interested....
Thanks JL for the scratchers results.... I still need a shroud though,
I boiled over last Sunday..........
Hey Buffalo Hawk, when I get my full shroud, you can have mine, if you still want/need it
I boiled over last Sunday..........
Hey Buffalo Hawk, when I get my full shroud, you can have mine, if you still want/need it
T
TLKDPROD
Well-known member
Does that 90% represent "tuning work", "driving work" or a combination of both !
the percentages will switch roles...keep riding it! dont give up like so many others have...just remeber to relax and trust it,look where you want to go and it will follow.
I have never had problems with overheating noe I am beginning to think I may have a faulty light. How can I test the functionality of the overheat light?
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Thunderhawk
Member
Aside from intentionally riding back and forth on a trail with little snow, how about letting it idle for a while! Anybody have an idea how long it would take too overheat(turn on the light) at idle?
hot time
from 120 to hot light i would guess 5-10 min at idle but just guessing
from 120 to hot light i would guess 5-10 min at idle but just guessing
Thread: Is overheating caused by small shroud
I am modifiying an old style snow flap to see if I can get it to throw up more snow towards the exchangers, I used a heat gun and rolled the straight edge and cut some bungee cords to hold it back, now I have to find some plastic to try to lengthen it. Check out the pics... I will get back to everyone with updates when I finish it up.
I am modifiying an old style snow flap to see if I can get it to throw up more snow towards the exchangers, I used a heat gun and rolled the straight edge and cut some bungee cords to hold it back, now I have to find some plastic to try to lengthen it. Check out the pics... I will get back to everyone with updates when I finish it up.
boiled over?
did you have the scratchers on? just read this thread for the first time, Every time I stop behind my friend joel with scratchers on his 800 everything is covered with ice! (even the backs of his legs!)
did you have the scratchers on? just read this thread for the first time, Every time I stop behind my friend joel with scratchers on his 800 everything is covered with ice! (even the backs of his legs!)
Nice N.Y. . I like the idea. I keep my bungees down if no powder. Regular if so or off trail. I've only seen the light come on once when I waited for some friends , maybe ... 5 minutes.
P
predatorr03
Member
My original bungy's are snaped but never overheated anyway,i guess just having that plastic close to the ground is enough even on the low snow trails, i just get off to the side of trail every now and then to get some powder and i guess it works.and its fun too
P
predatorr03
Member
He meant 90% riding work and 10% fun,when we came back from that 2 hr ride on sunday,we were both spent ,but most of the ride was rough trails and he didnt have is snow trackers on yet.i felt a huge difference the minute i put them on mine.we'll get his done before the next ride.
Is there anyway we can get these salad bowls not to launch as hard by either changing the spring or the weigths in it just to get smoother take-offs (beside putting in a tra for now)until we get used to these monsters.crossing roads is a major pain.
Is there anyway we can get these salad bowls not to launch as hard by either changing the spring or the weigths in it just to get smoother take-offs (beside putting in a tra for now)until we get used to these monsters.crossing roads is a major pain.
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
Try a longer belt, it's not the clutch's engagement but what gear it's starting in. Notice your secondary sits still with the belt below the sheave edges, longer XLT #1042 for example can be adjusted higher in clutch, now your in first instead of third gear takeoff.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180652
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180652
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TLKDPROD
Well-known member
Along with the longer belt, you could probably go with a softer start on the primary spring as well which would cause the engagement to happen earlier and give you smoother/easier take offs.
I don't know what stock is exactly, I don't know what part number that is (0151-1007). Can't cross reference it... Probably a CVTech R&D part number.
If I were you I'd probably try a Yellow/Green from Bombardier (part # 414742100) which has a 100-260 force to it. That 100 pound start force on this spring won't retain a lot of inertia and will engage at a very low RPM. Probably a good thing for guys who are still in their learning curve or who are just looking for a less agressive ride. A 600 at Sea Level is more than a lot of guys can handle anyways...
Once you get use to it, then you could go back to a more agressive setup. BTW, a spring is pretty cheap, like 30$ at your local Doo dealer... but you need a clutch puller stud, clutch holding key and a spring compressor or you can have somebody that has the tools to do it.
I don't know what stock is exactly, I don't know what part number that is (0151-1007). Can't cross reference it... Probably a CVTech R&D part number.
If I were you I'd probably try a Yellow/Green from Bombardier (part # 414742100) which has a 100-260 force to it. That 100 pound start force on this spring won't retain a lot of inertia and will engage at a very low RPM. Probably a good thing for guys who are still in their learning curve or who are just looking for a less agressive ride. A 600 at Sea Level is more than a lot of guys can handle anyways...
Once you get use to it, then you could go back to a more agressive setup. BTW, a spring is pretty cheap, like 30$ at your local Doo dealer... but you need a clutch puller stud, clutch holding key and a spring compressor or you can have somebody that has the tools to do it.
S
snowhawkaddict
Banned
Or stick a dreadlock down the clutch side plug hole and pop the bolt loose.
